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1973 f100 4x4. I’m in the middle of doing radius arm axle insulator and pivot bushings. I’m starting with passenger side. I’ve removed the two bolts and upper retainer on the top of the spring (one bolt on very top, one bolt on side connecting a spring involved bracket, VERY rusted) per book instructions. Then the book says “remove the nut which attaches the spring lower retainer to the lower seat and axle and remove the retainer”. Now a lot is probably buried in all the dirt and rust at the bottom of the spring, inside the spring, but there are TWO BOLTS down there, off center next to each other, on the engine side of the available space. I don’t see a bracket or retainer, I see a spring cup or mount with these two bolts. The coil spring has a spacer wound into the bottom of the spring which has a “stop” for the end of the spring at the very bottom. Under the bottom spring cup or mount, there is the front radius clamshell and axle insulator. Do I correctly assume that I remove BOTH these bolts? Not sure what the bolts are screwed into, has bolted clamshell radius arms immediately below the “bowl” that spring rests in. I see nothing that brackets or retains the spring; it just sits there, unless something is in the dirt at the base. What happens when the axle is lowered? The spring comes out of the bowl, and the bowl (bottom mount) comes off the radius arm? Sorry, YouTube offers no detail or close ups, plus they seem to use a long extension from the very top to reach bottom bolt, and that is impossible here; there is only a bolt hole at the top. Very limited access to bottom bolts or to clear all the dirt out to get a better view. Thanks!
There is a bracket down there that hold/goes over part of the spring to keep it in place. The bolts go into the two halves of the radius arms. Their a pain to get to but with socket and extwnsion, you can swing the ratchet between the coils Like this
Yep two bolts have to come out. Clean around them and use penatrating oil you dont want to strip those heads as they go into the castings below, one in the front radius arm cap one into the radius arm. I use a six sided socket and a lot of exstinons or six sided wrench.try looking at james duff, wild horse, toms bronco, bronco graveyatd sites to find pics of parts your working with. And if it helps block up the frame tall and block up the axle so the spring pressure is gone. Be safe under there.
77 hos nailed it just as i typed
So, the best thing to do to relieve spring pressure and open up spaces between spring coils (to more easily get tools between them to reach bolts) is to lower the axle now? Because I’ve removed top bracket, when I lower axle I should have a gap open up top to put tools down from the top spring opening? I have limited ability to raise truck, and lower axle to separate top of spring from chassis, if it requires a lot of distance….
No, don't worry about accessing the bolts through the top of the spring. Just lower the axle enough to release any compression until it is just a tad loose up top. Then use several different length extensions for your socket wrench, maybe a elbow or u-joint. I even used a breaker bar because the head (elbow) is thinner than a socket wrench head. You will have to thread the socket and extension up from the bolt and reach in between the coils to connect the handle. As the bolts back out, you have to sometimes change the length of your extension. A box wrench (with an offset would be best) might work as well. You will only get about 1/8th of a turn at a time.
Luckily the bolts are only about 3/4 of an inch in length IIRC.
Once you get started you'll figure out what will work best. (Just be patient)
No, don't worry about accessing the bolts through the top of the spring. Just lower the axle enough to release any compression until it is just a tad loose up top. Then use several different length extensions for your socket wrench, maybe a elbow or u-joint. I even used a breaker bar because the head (elbow) is thinner than a socket wrench head. You will have to thread the socket and extension up from the bolt and reach in between the coils to connect the handle. As the bolts back out, you have to sometimes change the length of your extension. A box wrench (with an offset would be best) might work as well. You will only get about 1/8th of a turn at a time.
Luckily the bolts are only about 3/4 of an inch in length IIRC.
Once you get started you'll figure out what will work best. (Just be patient)
The two bolts at the bottom spring retainer are shallow drafted heads; bolt isn’t moving with breaker bar, and has twisted off shallow head once already, showing some bolt head damage. I know they dont sell these springs at oreilly’s autozone. Do they sell springs, spring retainers, or even radius arms SOMEPLACE in case I have to go full medieval on the whole assembly? I can try a cutoff wheel or plasma cutter combo on low part of coil to get better access now by cutting most of coil spring away, if bolt is even salvageable. The coil springs have the spacer at the bottom, so I’m assuming rusted old spring is already out of spec, soooo….in other words, if the bolt breaks, or is stripped, or the bolt head is unusable, and unremovable from radius arm, how deep do my options and alternatives go? One and done?
Aftermarket springs are dime a dozen. Sure can find some stock ones too. The retainer like in picture before is for sale online too. Or salvage yard but kinda alot of work to get them out. I dont believe there is anything special about the bolts. Mine have normal size head. Maybe yours are rusted some taking away the height some.
Days of soaking with penetrating oil will be your best bet on getting them out. Cutting the spring will make it easier for sure.
Then removal options would be cut as much spring out as possible,grind the heads off. Hope for enough bolt left to weld to and back them out. Drill and easy out next unlikley to work.
Worst case drill and tap new threads. Have to enlarge retainer for larger bolts too
Did you hit em with some penetrating oil? I personally like Kroil, but PB blaster is another. I would let them soak over night and try again. Squirt some underneath the spring cup as well since they are threaded into the radius arms and cap.
You may have to use some heat as well. Also make sure you use a 6 point socket.
I guess if they get stripped, you could find a way to cut the heads off and get everything apart. Then use vice grips to remove what is left. Go ahead and plan on replacing the bolts.
Yes, you can get replacement springs and parts if needed. LMC has all the parts. Rock Auto should have at least the springs.
PM me if you want my phone number and I'll offer some advice verbally.
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