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My name is Davis, and Im new to this website. I have a 1978 f250. I'm having brake issues with my front brakes. They are sticking every once in a while and I have to bleed pressure out of the lines at the master cylinder. Any suggestions as to where to start trouble shooting the problem?
Power or no power brakes?
Just the front or both front & back you need to do ttat to?
Next time it happens back the nuts off the master and see if that takes the pressure away.
Dave ----
I would check my temps with just the hand next time, if a brake hose is blocking return due to an imnternal fault on a line, a mile or so will heat that brake up hot enough you'll feel it just getting close to that brake, you will not want to touch it ... so don't. If you smell it and step on the brake as it's moving and the steering wheel is pulled left, it's the right front brake and vicey versa. If it seams to be all of them ... or just one end as you said, could be the brake proportioning block in the left frame rail under the M-C. If you do try to loosen a tube nut on the MC, the rear "larger" reservoir is front brakes.
At first I was going to say hose but he is undoing a line at the master so it's that whole system master to wheel.
If it was a bad hose then undoing a line at the master would not release the pressure.
Dave. ----
The rubber brake hose that runs from the hard line to the caliper when old can become pliable and collapse from a vacuum created in the line. This condition has similar symptoms as mentioned by the OP. The solution is to replace both the rubber brake hoses.
The rubber brake hose that runs from the hard line to the caliper when old can become pliable and collapse from a vacuum created in the line. This condition has similar symptoms as mentioned by the OP. The solution is to replace both the rubber brake hoses.
So you are saying there is a vacuum between master and the 2 rubber lines and that is why they are holding pressure?
If he undid the line at the master and it's under a vacuum it would let air into the system and no fluid would leak out.
If it had pressure when he opens the fitting at the master fluid would pass out.
Now don't get me wrong if the hoses are old yes just replace them but I would want to know what the cause is before throwing parts at it.
Rod adjustment at the master If to long will not let the pistons back all the way holding pressure on the system..
That is why I said to loosen the master to see what happens.
Dave. ----
So you are saying there is a vacuum between master and the 2 rubber lines and that is why they are holding pressure?
If he undid the line at the master and it's under a vacuum it would let air into the system and no fluid would leak out.
If it had pressure when he opens the fitting at the master fluid would pass out.
Now don't get me wrong if the hoses are old yes just replace them but I would want to know what the cause is before throwing parts at it.
Rod adjustment at the master If to long will not let the pistons back all the way holding pressure on the system..
That is why I said to loosen the master to see what happens.
Dave. ----
What happens is the inner lining rubber gets ruptured and then acts as a one way check valve not allowing the piston and pad to return when you release your brake pedal.
I just went through it last October on my '77, was a old hose on left front so I replaced both. Like in the picture, a piece of liner gets loose patly, you press on the pedal, fluid moves it and passes, then when you releas the braske, the now reversed fluid pushes that rubber piece into small undamage portion, and it's enough to hold the brake applied or not fully released. Cracking the bleeder will release it until the next time you use the brakes. My left front, my shop air could not blow through it in reverse direction. If cracking the bleeder doesn't release the brake, think caliper.
What happens is the inner lining rubber gets ruptured and then acts as a one way check valve not allowing the piston and pad to return when you release your brake pedal.
I know that is what happens but the OP said he undid a fitting at the master how would that remove pressure at the caliper if the line was plugged?
Dave ----
I know that is what happens but the OP said he undid a fitting at the master how would that remove pressure at the caliper if the line was plugged?
Dave ----
I don't believe this condition just happens over night but rather is a gradual progression where partial blockage can produce varying degrees of the problem. Like the condition reported by the op.
They are sticking every once in a while and I have to bleed pressure out of the lines at the master cylinder. Any suggestions as to where to start trouble shooting the problem?
I have experienced everything from the caliper wouldn't release at all to it dragged for a bit and then released. The first time it happened I diagnosed the problem as calipers and that was 30 years ago. Now any older vehicle I work on I spend the $25 and put on the new rubber lines. If it's a work truck or off road rig I spend the $ for the braided stainless steel lines.
Thanks for all the valuable input. It sounds like the problem has been narrowed down the to rubber brake lines. I ordered 2 new rubber brake lines. I will let you Guys know if that solves the problem. Thanks again for the help.
A few notes when you go to replace your rubber brake lines:
1) When separating the hard line from the rubber line use a line wrench to secure the hard line to insure no twisting of the hard line otherwise you might end up replacing it also.
2) The metal bracket that secures the union of the two lines is no longer being made so be extra careful with it.
3) Be sure the new brake hoses have new copper mounting washers included.
Thanks for all the valuable input. It sounds like the problem has been narrowed down the to rubber brake lines. I ordered 2 new rubber brake lines. I will let you Guys know if that solves the problem. Thanks again for the help.