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Confused!! Isn't the speedo gears in the tail shaft, how are you going to flush the tail shaft?
Driven gear is in a housing, but looking through where the driven gear is inserted, it looks like the is a hole where lubricant will drain back into the case, just guessing.
The worm gear looks like it might be in good shape, must be a lot harder metal than the driven gear as it was pretty chewed up. Talking with several transmission/driveline shops one has indicated that the driven gear and worm gear need to be replaced as a set, another said no. Any ideas?
In the transmission diagram I do not see the worm gear that drives the driven gear?
Labeled as "gear" on output shafts. slides in outside of bearing.
Thanks JohnNewb, that makes sense. I new it had to be on the output shaft and suspected that gear had something to do with it. So flushing from the hole with the driven gear, the debris will have to make its way through the bearings to the gearbox. I imagine there might be some debris that is settled on the bottom of the tail piece. I might be able to get a suction hose in there to suck some of that stuff out.
Should be right. The gear in picture is out of an f100 but same numbers as on yours. I think their catalog picture is bad. Maybe call them and see if part looks like what you have. Frustrating they don't list F350.
I called LMC today and they said they carry driven gears for 1/2 and 3/4 but not for `1 ton. I did some googling on the T98 transmission and found that they were also used in jeeps. A supplier of jeep parts, Novak Conversion sell rebuild kits for the T98 and they claim just about anybody with a slip ring pliers a gear puller and a few other tools can do a reasonable rebuild job. I called them and asked about the driven gear and they do not carry them. They referred to to Border Parts south of San Diego. Called them and John is going to take a look to see if he can locate one. I am keeping my fingers crossed.
I got all the gauges and lights working, still waiting on driven gear. Took it for a drive this evening. Damn rigid suspension, I think I rattled a couple teeth fillings out, but it was fun. Going over those bumps it feels like the truck is going to fly apart. And then doing 50 with the 5:14 rear end, running about 3200 rpm, it sounds like it is going to fly apart. Boy have we got spoiled with these new quiet cars and trucks.
Next project seeing how it is fall and winter is around the corner is windshield wipers and a heater core. I read somewhere on the forum that heater cores for the 1960 truck is hard to find, but there was something about a retrofit with another model of heater core.
Make sure Jeep had same input shaft. I bought a kit for Ford but input shaft bearing was wrong size. Had to buy it separately. The friend that helped me has more experience but had a little trouble. Of course he only looked at pictures. We had to repeat a lot of steps. Maybe with a good manual. It was really tight afterwards and failed quickly. I found pilot bushing really worn and suspect that was part of problem. The speedo gear I have is out of an F100 so LMC part should work. Mine is an extra but not sure if I should hang onto it or not. The F100 transmission was exactly like my F350 except rear housing (mine has band brake) and PTO had blank off cover.
Make sure Jeep had same input shaft. I bought a kit for Ford but input shaft bearing was wrong size. Had to buy it separately. The friend that helped me has more experience but had a little trouble. Of course he only looked at pictures. We had to repeat a lot of steps. Maybe with a good manual. It was really tight afterwards and failed quickly. I found pilot bushing really worn and suspect that was part of problem. The speedo gear I have is out of an F100 so LMC part should work. Mine is an extra but not sure if I should hang onto it or not. The F100 transmission was exactly like my F350 except rear housing (mine has band brake) and PTO had blank off cover.
I sent LMC an email asking for a real picture of the part. Hopefully they provide one. If not, I might just order the part, 12.95 plus shipping won't break the bank. That is good info about the kit, I am not thinking about installing a kit as the tranny seems to be operating ok. I would like to flush it out and try to get that gear debris out but I suspect it has been this way for many years. Did you rebuilt your band break?
I found a guy that relined the band for me. The metal on the drum was pretty worn but it works.
Found my ups receipt from when I shipped him my band:
Valley Brake
1202 Price St.
Pomona, CA 91767
909-622-2500
I found a guy that relined the band for me. The metal on the drum was pretty worn but it works.
Found my ups receipt from when I shipped him my band:
Valley Brake
1202 Price St.
Pomona, CA 91767
909-622-2500
This was 2017 so here's hoping still around.
I found a driven gear on eBay. $65. I am not sure why the old one got chewed up so rather than just plop it in I think I am going to drop the drive shaft and remove the tail piece on te transmission in order to check out the worm gear. Does that sound reasonable?
got a quote from les schwab for tires $1500. The said the split rims were not in issue. Old tires were installed in 1986.
I found a driven gear on eBay. $65. I am not sure why the old one got chewed up so rather than just plop it in I think I am going to drop the drive shaft and remove the tail piece on te transmission in order to check out the worm gear. Does that sound reasonable?
got a quote from les schwab for tires $1500. The said the split rims were not in issue. Old tires were installed in 1986.
Good approach. There is always a “why” when parts fail. This approach can save your new part from looking like the previous one. Don’t ask for my example...