I just used the Sniper Master Kit. I ran the EFI rated hose they supply you as my fuel supply line and then used my factory hard line as my return. The pics of the sending unit I posted are mine.

 

Just an observation for an issue that I am experiencing currently that you may want to circumvent. Using the stock rear tanks (19 gallon or 32 gallon) these are unbaffled as they are not EFI tanks and although you won't experience it with the in cab tank you may experience cavitation with the aft 32 gallon tank if you run it low enough on gas. I have a 340LPH pump in my stock 19 gallon and when it is half full and I mash the gas the truck will fall on it's face from fuel starvation due to no internal baffle. Tanks Inc and Boyd's make aft EFI 19/23 gallon tanks for these trucks with internal baffles. I'll most likely go with Boyd's. Also you might confirm that with the pump you listed will be tall enough for your 32 gallon tank. From FiTech... "This universal billet assembly can be used on tanks with a depth of 6” to 15”. Assuming it does, you will have to lower the tank some so the pump mounting (hat) surface sticking out of the tank doesn't contact the bed floor. I used a small piece of phenolic mounted to the lower surface on the left upper tank strap forward end to drop the tank enough to clear the pump mount hat.

I'm not positive, but the 6 port selector is for a carbureted application for 70's era Chevy's and appears to have 5/16" ports and most likely is not large enough for EFI as most everything I've seen including the pump you listed is 3/8" diameter lines and ports. Unless you are attempting to use it strictly for fuel quantity between the two tanks and not fuel delivery? For myself, I thought, I would simply mount an external pump near my midship tank with a switch in the cab and toggle it on and have it fill the rear tank through the stock pick up tube. If needed I would keep the existing sending unit and get a separate gauge to monitor fuel level. Thus no need for the 6 port valve. With the Coyote however, I'm getting very decent mileage and don't have the need currently for the second tank.
The sump idea hands down will be your cheapest route for both tanks.

 

The wiring diagram from EFI System Pro seems to be missing something around how the switch is wired, at least to me. It will never supply power to the AUX pump as wired unless the internals are more complicated than a normal switch.
The diagram at Pollack Aftermarket makes more sense to me. The lower row of switch terminals are 1-2-3 left to right. The upper row is 4-5-6 left to right. With the switch in MAIN, 1 is connected to 2, 4 is connected to 5. This will put power on terminal E and the main pump. It will ground terminal D and the AUX pump. With the switch in AUX, the power and grounds will switch on both the motorized valve and the pumps. Grounding the pumps like this will cause no issues as both sides are grounded.

Either way, you can use the stock switch and a relay or two to get the functionality you need without having to hack the dash or use a separate switch in an under dash bracket. You need a double pole double throw, AKA DPDT, relay or a pair of single pole single throw, AKA SPDT, relays with the coils wired in parallel. The factory tank selector switch has 2 switches (poles) but only one side is double throw with 3 terminals, the other is single throw with 2 terminals. The double throw side switches the path from the gauge to the sending units. The single pole side powers the FV-1 solenoid valve to select the aux tank. No power = MAIN tank, power = AUX tank. To use the factory switch, run the single pole side of the switch to a double pole double throw relay with a 12 volt DC coil if you can find one. The usual automotive relays that come as a relay and socket are SPST with 4 terminals or SPDT with 5 terminals. Ebay shows red colored relays that claim they are DPDT but they, like the cake, are a lie. You can use 2 SPDT relays with the coils wired in parallel. The relay(s) should energize when the switch is in AUX. Wire the relay as if it were the switch shown in the Pollack diagram. You can leave the fuel gauges connected to the factory switch or rewire them to the motorized valve as shown.

Visit www.the12volt.com for lots of info on relays. See this post about how I used relays to add electric switch-over between the 3 tanks on my '74 SuperCab.

I can draw a diagram if needed, it'd be later this weekend at the soonest.

Michael

 

Thank you for chiming in with your thoughts.

The aft axle tank I will be using is the aerotank 32 gallon model which does have a few internal baffles built into it and is EFI ready. This 32 gallon tank is 13" deep so the FiTech 50015 will work since it is capable of handling a depth of up to 15 inches.



Good point on the 6 port selector sizing. I double checked and the FV5 I have is actually 3/8" fuel lines and 5/16" return lines. It's also rated for 60 PSi max. The 3 port I have now is all 5/16". I had to put reducer barbs and hoses in to make it work with my 3/8 steel lines. It seems that all FV1 switches are 5/16" these days even though the original switches and lines were 3/8." If you know of 3/8" FV1 styles out there let me know.

 

I have not looked at the Holley Universal Sump Kits before. However, I did previously try a FiTech 40003 Fuel Command Center but never got it working on my truck. While these don't need a return line, the installation instructions state - 5/16” FUEL LINE (NOT INCLUDED) MUST BE ROUTED FROM THE SUMP OVERFLOW VENT BACK TO THE FUEL TANK. In my view, whether it's a vent line or a return line back to a fuel tank, a line is a line. The claims that no return line is needed are splitting hairs and misleading because what is the real difference between a vent line and a return line? They both require a line to be run for a varying amount of vapor or liquid to travel back to the tank.

Maybe I'm uneducated on the particulars of how these fuel systems fully work, but once I consider that a line is needed, I conclude that a high-pressure return line is better than a vent line so I might as well go that route as modern EFI vehicles typically are setup that way.

I'm still debating internally with myself on this topic, so any experts feel free to educate me on vent line vs return line and why one is better than the other.

 

Yep, but I like it because everything happens downstream of the existing mechanical fuel pump. With this, there's no need to alter fuel tanks, or come up with some Rube Goldberg dual pump / dual tank valve contraption.

 

For those of you with the 32 gallon aerotank running EFI, where did you install your in-tank fuel pump? As pictured below, I see @9thPony installed on the driver side before the first baffle and the stock fuel sender was in the middle baffle compartment. Close to the stock pickup seems to make sense to me. Has anyone done differently and have feedback one way or another on how it worked out?

Here is 9thPony's tank, with the sender in the middle & feed/return on the driver side.


Here is my tank, with the sender on the passenger side and the feed/return in the middle.


I suppose I can call Aerotanks tomorrow for their guidance.

 

I talked to Jake at Aerotanks and he said the middle compartment would be best and is where most of his customers with these tanks put an in-tank EFI pump.

He did mention to look out for a bed rib that may limit where the EFI module can go.

Hopefully, I'll have time to get moving on this soon.

 

That bed rib is what I mentioned in my previous post as the pump mount flange may contact the bottom of the bed. Mine did and in order to mount it as previously mentioned, I installed a piece of phenolic to the driver's side upper tank strap so it would lower the tank away from the bottom of the bed. Just curious what you do with your truck that you need 52 gallons of fuel?

 

I've been test-fitting my aerotank and have finally settled on where I will drill holes to mount it. Looks like I'll need to have a 3/8" or so shim as @73 hi-boy 428 fe did for his 42 gallon aerotank as posted here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...l#post19709501 and based on what you posted from your experience as well.

I'd like to have dual tank with ~50 gallons total capacity tanks to simply have more fuel onboard to allow for longer distances between stops to fill up and greater distances off road without worrying about running out of fuel.

To get things started I've decided to start with just the rear tank setup for EFI.

 

Here's is where things stand right now on this upgrade.

I did purchase the FiTech 50015:


and set it up with the smaller filter sock (after trying with the larger one a few times unsuccessfully in the tank)I had to retrieve it with a little grabber tool from the 2 1/4" hole in the tank. IIRC the instructions said to cut the black return line at a diagonal so that it was about 1/4" from the bottom of the tank. For my 13" deep tank the black return line is clearly not as long and the feed line with the pump and filter on it. That is the out-of-the-box length for the black return line in this picture. I think I cut around 4" off the white feed line.


I measured where I wanted the center of my hole to be and that turned out to be about 6" from the center of the tank and 15" from the driver side on the front compartment. I drew a line at the 8" from rear center to mark where the crossmember would roughly be so I could avoid interference/clearance issues.



Drilling the hole was rather uneventful as this tank has never had fuel in it.

I drilled with the tank upside down on sawhorses to reduce the number of shavings. I still cleaned the tank out with a retractable magnet and flushed it with water a few times to make sure I got all the metal shavings out. Drilling upside down probably wasn't necessary but it kept my teenage son more interested.


Where you drill the screw holes certainly does matter if you want the pump fittings oriented in a certain direction:


I used the thin gasket because the top of my aerotank is not perfectly flat:



The little grey rubber spacers that come in the Fitech 50015 kit are useless. By the time you tighten down the nuts to the screws the spacers have been broken up and squished out.

I purchased some 6AN straight push lock hose ends and enough 3/8" fuel injection rated hose to get to the hard lines that I had run for the supply and return lines to this tank. From what I've read the return line should only run at about 3 PSI but the little bit of rubber I have for the return line is fuel injection rated.

 

How many amps does that fuel pump draw? Are you going to run a relay to power it? What fuel filter are you planning? If you don't have one in mind yet I have a fair suggestion. One tip: be sure the bank you choose to install your O2 sensor has zero leaks from header gasket and collector gasket (and ~18 inches downstream from sensor).

 

Hey, Maddog,
I am am not smart enough to post pictures to a PM. I used 1 1/2” x 3 1/3” x 3/8” bar stock. I had all kinds of different thicknesses ready to go but the 3/8” alone did the trick for me. Your topside holes locations are way different than mine. When did you order yours? I even think I know why he has the mount locations in the wrong spot. I shared it with him and if you bought yours this year then it went in one ear and out the other. I will explain my theory if anybody want to hear it. Pretty sure I am spot on with it though!

 

My tank was made in Dec 2019. I bought it 2nd hand from a gentleman who never installed it on his highboy for about half of what he paid.

A few things I've noticed. The vent line on this aerotank is 1/2" and the fuel inlet line is 2". When I talked to Jake at aerotanks he told me if a tank would be built for me today it would have a 3/4" vent and 2 1/4" fuel inlet line. (I specifically asked about those since the sizing could easily be made to match the factory size.)

While the website says they offer a fill kit, he clarified that it is not for those with the round hole in the bed.

Other noteworthy items:

I ended up buying a 2 foot length of 3/8" thick, 2" wide bar stock at Home Depot. No one else in town had what I needed and I didn't feel like taking the time or spending the gas money to drive down to Industrial Metal supply for some scrap pieces. That was around $30.

I cut them into four 4" long pieces and took them to a friend's shop for him to drill out with 3/8" holes after I determined where I wanted the holes drilled. I could have done it but he was willing so why not? I had to purchase 1/4" and 3/8" cobalt drill bits to be able to drill through my frame and the 16 gauge steel of the aerotank mounting brackets. For those keeping track of miscellaneous expenses incurred for this install those cost about $25 in total for both bits.

I have mostly hard fuel lines run, though I am utilizing fuel injection rated rubber hose from the tank AN fittings to the hard lines on the frame and rubber for the crossmember where the e-brake cables route through to where my hard return line switches from the passenger frame to thedriver side. I did it this way so that I can split off the in-cab tank return line via a FV1 switch on the passenger frame some time down the road.

I'll call it another $130 in EFI rated hose, 3/8" hard line and AN adapters.

My inline fuel filter is a Napa FIL3482.

For my exhaust O2 sensor, I had a bung put in on the passenger side back when I had the exhaust made for the truck. The O2 sensor is installed and plugged into the right connector.
I need to finish wiring up the 7 pin connector for the Sniper and actually install the fuel tank.

Since the fuel tank vent line is 1/2 and my stock vent line is 3/4" I had to buy a brass 1/2" to 3/4" barb. Another $4.
Fuel tank installation is awaiting the arrival of a 2" to 2-1/4" OD Fuel Filler Hose Reducers / Stepped Joiner Adapter from FillerNeck Supply. They're on sale for $19 shipped.

The additional costs sure do add up. That's a little under $210 for everything listed above. Plus I didn't include the costs of various wiring fittings, heat shrink tubing, mounting nuts, bolts, washers, brackets, and other knickknacks to allow me to run the Sniper temperature sensor and my mechanical gauge sensor from the same intake manifold spot. I'll bump that total up to $250. Buying the tank for 1/2 price makes me feel better about these other costs.

 

Looking good! Great find on the used tank. Make sure to install a fuel pressure gauge - it helps a lot when troubleshooting. I put mine right before the throttle body.