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Returning home stopped at the mailbox and smoke was coming out from the drivers side wheel. Took the caliper off with some difficulty and the pads were OK but the frame that holds the caliper in place was scraping against the rotor. Frame was tight. Will pull the rotor off next to see if i can determine the cause. Thanks. Truck is a 07 F250 6.0L 4X4. 145000 miles
Further investigation showed the seals around the caliper pistons were degraded so that may have been part of the problem. One question is, should i rebuild or buy new?
As i have it torn down this far i would like to grease the needle bearings. The instructions with the new O-rings only show removing the outer hub. I have a copy of guzzle's 2002 PSD Needle Bearing Lube 60K mile Service and it goes through the removal of the hub from the knuckle and some additional work. Was there a design change from 02 to 07 that doesn't require the removal of the hub from the knuckle. I want to do this right and not have to do any additional work. I looked in the tech folder and didn't see any upgrades. I don't want to bring it anywhere to be done as i don't trust anyone to do it correctly. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Last edited by bvieages; Jul 19, 2021 at 09:09 AM.
Reason: Forgot truck type and year
it's a straight forward job , 4 bolts hold the hub on and i believe your truck will have 6-8 bolts that hold the locking portion of the hubs on and behind that their is a C clip that snap's around the front axle spline remove that . Of Course you have to remove the caliper bracket and rotor . Rock Auto has good prices on hub units ,I myself use the Timken units think for my 2004 it was $167 each.
it's a straight forward job , 4 bolts hold the hub on and i believe your truck will have 6-8 bolts that hold the locking portion of the hubs on and behind that their is a C clip that snap's around the front axle spline remove that . Of Course you have to remove the caliper bracket and rotor . Rock Auto has good prices on hub units ,I myself use the Timken units think for my 2004 it was $167 each.
Thanks for the reply. Been apprehensive about doing this lube job but with having to remove the calipers figured it was as good a time as any. Kind of at the edge of my expertise but will jump in as i need to get it done. The hub turns but it takes a bit more force than it probably should. Did you mean the caliper from Rock Auto or the hub?
Returning home stopped at the mailbox and smoke was coming out from the drivers side wheel. Took the caliper off with some difficulty and the pads were OK but the frame that holds the caliper in place was scraping against the rotor. Frame was tight. Will pull the rotor off next to see if i can determine the cause. Thanks. Truck is a 07 F250 6.0L 4X4. 145000 miles
Further investigation showed the seals around the caliper pistons were degraded so that may have been part of the problem. One question is, should i rebuild or buy new?
As i have it torn down this far i would like to grease the needle bearings. The instructions with the new O-rings only show removing the outer hub. I have a copy of guzzle's 2002 PSD Needle Bearing Lube 60K mile Service and it goes through the removal of the hub from the knuckle and some additional work. Was there a design change from 02 to 07 that doesn't require the removal of the hub from the knuckle. I want to do this right and not have to do any additional work. I looked in the tech folder and didn't see any upgrades. I don't want to bring it anywhere to be done as i don't trust anyone to do it correctly. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
I had the same issue and my problem was the inner hub bearing had failed. I have the lifetime warranty hubs from Oreilys when that happened they replaced the hub, pads, and the caliber free of charge. It seems like every 4 or 5 years I have to replace one or the other. I would recommend going with the best you can afford unless you enjoy changing them periodically. I've heard the hubs with the Timken bearings hold up well. If I have issues again I will try something else.
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