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First Major engine work on Diesel

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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 02:43 PM
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First Major engine work on Diesel

My 1985 F250 4x4 6.9 with 105k miles, started running rough the other day, so drove home, lots of smoke, white (is new for this truck) and black when under load. making a popping sound, and when I removed the air Cleaner sounds like a backfire in the intake, Starts right up and Idles around 800 rpm real rough. Truck ran fine before, just went to Reno pulling a trailer, slow but normal.
My guess is Head gasket, no oil in coolant, no water in Oil.

Will be doing a Compression test tomorrow to confirm this.

I am 70 years old and new to diesels
My Plan
Remove the front end of the truck, and pull the engine (I have a 2ton Hoist).
Valve job or used heads, I am retired and concerned with costs.
Replace Clutch
Replace water pump.
Clean up the engine Bay (rattle can restore)
Boil out radiator.
Put it back together and off for another 36 years.
My Concerns
The Injector pump scares me, as far as removing to get heads off, and getting the timing right when I put it back.
Any suggestions on getting to the two top bellhousing Bolts?
What else should I do with engine out?
Thanks
Craig
 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 03:01 PM
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how long have u had her? did she get hot on the trip to reno?
 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 03:34 PM
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About four years, sat in a field for 8 years, New GP, New Batteries, New Tires, Cleaned Fuel system, Oil change, and tanks cleaned. Drove home to Monterey from Reno.
Never over heated, has always run right in the middle of the gauge. No Ether, Just started one morning and ran rough.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 05:13 PM
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i just read the other day on here that a guy was having similar problems and the guys (who have more knowledge than me) said that the injector pump goes out and causes similar problems and its a matter of time rather than miles

i am sure some of the fellers on here will start giving better trouble shooting ideas but i do know that air intrusion is a problem and that the olives on the injector lines are a culprit there

there are some good videos on swapping these out on youtube and its not too difficult a job but its better to locate the issue rather than throw parts at it

im of the opinion for these old trucks whats been serviced or neglected is an x factor and by me doing it, it becomes a known factor
 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 05:50 PM
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Sounds like the injectors are fouled up. Check the fuel filter. Change it out if brown crap pours out with the fuel. Blowing white and black with rough idle def sounds like fuel delivery. Get some 911 in the fuel, or some type of cleaner. Don't tear it up just yet
 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 06:09 PM
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Just before the trip, changed fuel filter, filled new filter with injector cleaner, cranked it over without GP, and let set over night.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 06:41 PM
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https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenanc...placement.html

some things no amount of cleaner will fix
 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 06:52 PM
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How new are the return lines. Air can cause rough idle. Did it start acting up mid ride, or at startup.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 07:31 PM
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Return lines are about 6 months old, have a clear tube just before Fuel filter to show any bubbles in line. Long trip and the next morning just started up rough, with a popping noise.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 09:13 PM
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If you're getting black and white smoke, it's a fuel thing. If a valve was screwed up it would be constant, and most likely burning some oil. Black is fuel, so that's why I keep going back to that. Pump is tight, returns are new. You can always pull the valve cover on the side that's popping, and see if you're getting any compression under the cover. Start it up and after a few minutes put your hand on the valve covers. See if one is way too hot. If you have a bad valve/seat/guide, you'll have carbon buildup at the valve.It's hard to help- wish I was there to see it.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 09:44 PM
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Thanks tomorrows project
 
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 11:15 PM
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As the fellas above have said, lots of other things to check before you dive in and do major work. If it started running rough when you started it up on morning, it might just be a fuel issue.

No need to sweat the injection pump removal. I don’t think you need to pull the injection pump drive gear off to get the heads off, that way your gears will still be in time; you’ll just have to work around it as it’ll be in the way. Just remove the pump with the lines from the gear, and leave the gear in place.

 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 12:32 PM
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speaking of timing i have read they can creep out of time over time that might be a place to look too
 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 03:05 PM
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Ok, started right up, pulled into driveway,
Pulled all 8 GP, and Numbers two and four where wet, all others dry.
Using a HF Compression tester,
#1 350, #2 0.00, #3 350, #4 0.00, #5 350, #6 350, #7 360, #8 360.

Put the GP back into #2, did not change the #4 compression reading still 0.

Anything else I should look at?
 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 04:53 PM
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Ack. Pull valve cover. Run it and see if you get any combustion gasses coming thru.
 
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