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Theft light 1-6 code while driving

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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 06:21 AM
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Theft light 1-6 code while driving

This pattern is supposed to indicate Failed communication between pats and ecc.

Google says this error may persist after installing and removing a performance chip. I don't have any evidence that this occured before I owned it.
Fixes I've found online but am not thrilled with for various reasons: dealership reflash, aftermarket alarm work, bulb removal, performance chip reinstall...

Other options?
 

Last edited by Just Nobody; Jul 11, 2021 at 08:08 AM. Reason: Clarify title
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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 07:41 AM
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Insufficient information provided.

 
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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
Insufficient information provided.
'04 excursion 6.0 (03 block)

No functionality inhibited. While driving the theft light blinks once, pause, blinks six times, pause, repeat.

Using original keys.

Disable pats key/lock/unlock method no help.

System voltages correct.

Has always been this way since purchase many years ago - just now getting around to clean up little issues.

What additional information is helpful?
 
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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 01:12 PM
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It may be either running with a truck PCM or it's had PATS deleted from the PCM by a tuner. Since it starts normally, we know PATS isn't operating as originally built.

Maybe one of the diesel Excursion guys will comment, I know this has been seen a number of times.



 
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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
It may be either running with a truck PCM or it's had PATS deleted from the PCM by a tuner. Since it starts normally, we know PATS isn't operating as originally built.

Maybe one of the diesel Excursion guys will comment, I know this has been seen a number of times.
Thanks - I didn't think to check if it had a pickup pcm installed.


Indication is only while the vehicle is moving. No indication while turned off, running but in park or stopped while in gear.


I see hints of this exact problem all over the place online for various model, year, and body style but with few substantive recommendations. A mustang owner fixed with alarm add. A focus owner fixed with a transever removal. An econoline owner fixed with a pedal sensor. Just a bunch of noise I can't quite cut through.


Lots of threads (though not here that I've seen) end with "that guy" who says quit whining and go to the Ford dealer to fix your mistake and quit bothering us that's what you get for modifying your car and/or trying to steal someone else's.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 04:01 PM
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A mustang owner fixed with alarm add. A focus owner fixed with a transever removal. An econoline owner fixed with a pedal sensor. Just a bunch of noise I can't quite cut through.
None of those "solutions" make any sense to me, especially in the context of the trucks and SUVs.

 
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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
None of those "solutions" make any sense to me, especially in the context of the trucks and SUVs.
I agree.

I appreciate everyone's time and consideration helping me understand this problem.

It seems related to EEC-V programming logic unaffiliated with a specific frame.

EEC-IV on early Taurus models handles signals differently and PATS wasn't added until the mid-90's.

Is there something you would like to contribute to my thread?


 

Last edited by Just Nobody; Jul 11, 2021 at 06:54 PM. Reason: EEC commentary
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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 06:54 PM
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Old Jul 11, 2021 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by thor363
Thank you for this recommendation.

I should have been more clear in my second post: I have performed this procedure multiple times without any change to operating conditions; including variations listed in other places like opening and closing the doors in conjunction and manipulating the automatic door lock / unlock switch.

Indication is the same with and without PATS disabled or reset in this manner.
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Last edited by Just Nobody; Jul 11, 2021 at 07:12 PM.
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Old Jul 12, 2021 | 05:12 PM
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I bet it was turned off by a tuner, i have done this before on my 04 cobra, and the light would flash similarly, if that is truly the case, having a dealer re-flash it would solve that problem. I also had my 07 GT re-flashed by the ford dealer because the guy i bought it from didn't understand tuning and sold his tuner on ebay with the tune still on the car, not un-married/reverted. Cost me 200 bucks, and alleviated some other quirky issues that were caused by a not quite so perfect tune he got from who knows where. Got a new tuner, and did my own dyno tuning without that original tune monkey wrenching things.

The reason i had pats turned off on the cobra was because i only had 1 key, lost it a few times, it was restored salvage, only used for racing/fun stuff, and i put it back together from a wreck and the doors/body panels didnt even match so noone would be too into stealing it, since it looked like something you would see done to a V6 model, and noone would know what was hiding under the hood. Previous owner had t-boned a truck or something, had to rebuild the body forward of the doors, fenders, core support, radiator, fans, lights, wiring, hood, what a mess. Most of the front half ended up coming off a GT at a junkyard, other parts from a V6 model, so completely un-assuming as a sleeper.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 09:45 AM
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Find someone local with a un-married 5-Star tuner (or have them un-marry it for this test, and then try and marry it to yours. If it hooks up fine, then it's not a previous tuner. Just an idea.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 02:59 PM
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That wont work because tunes can stack, at least on older ECMs. If i have a vehicle and i load a tune with an SCT handheld, and then sell the car without the handheld, a new handheld can write a tune over the previous one, and you end up in a state where you do not have a stock tune to re-write over it. The programming device is what gets married, not the vehicle.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2021 | 08:52 PM
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Thank you very much for the input folks - I appreciate y'all
 
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