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Some amp meters have 2 post and some of the older ones had the loop. Just because it has the two post doesn't mean its a volt meter.
Back then cars didn't burn down because they had a amp meter. They burned down the same reason as today, they had bad wiring and poor fusing. I'm building a 53 mercury car and am using the original induction loop amp meter and have zero concerns about using it in what will be my everyday driver
I would suspect the reason the wiring company said to not use a amp meter is because they didn't supply a heavy enough fused wire to feed it. A amp meter needs at least 10 ga wire and can run a volt meter on much smaller wire.
What wire do I hook up to it? EZ wire tech said to use their red wire marked selinoid power. Why I ask is because someone on this post told someone else to use wire going to the alternator
What wire do I hook up to it? EZ wire tech said to use their red wire marked selinoid power. Why I ask is because someone on this post told someone else to use wire going to the alternator
Sorry im not much help on which wires to connect to it. I assume the EZ wire instructions would show which ones. I used a Painless wiring kit & it is probably different.
I attached the 10ga red wire marked selinoid power the one post of the gauge and ran the same wire from the other post to the selinoid. Connected all the other gauges and lights and installed the instrument panel.
I attached the 10ga red wire marked selinoid power the one post of the gauge and ran the same wire from the other post to the selinoid. Connected all the other gauges and lights and installed the instrument panel.
I looked up the EZ wire manual online Pappy. And it looks to me for your new LMC battery charge gauge, which is actually a voltmeter, you will want to run the positive terminal of the gauge to the RED/WHITE gauge power wire. And then connect the other terminal to ground. What the EZ wire tech told you to do would be correct but only for a real ammeter. Not for the voltmeter style of amp gauge you are installing. Of course I could be wrong. I just don't want to see the new gauge maybe burned up by running current through it.
Right you are. but it should be switched or it will be on all the time, right ?
According to what I see on the diagram I found on the EZ wire website, it looks as if the RED/WHITE wire is the common 12 volt feed for all the gauges so it should be a switched power source. Looks like the gauges are fed from the fuse block with a 10 amp fuse.
I don't mean to cause any confusion here. The voltmeter with ammeter scale is confusing enough. I just don't want Pappys new gauge to be damaged being wired like a real ammeter.
I am totally confused now.f I connect the gauge power wire to the volt gauge(it is not red/white) how to I get power to the rest of the gauges? The other gauges are 6 volt so I have them hooked to a voltage reducer. I really want all gauges to be working but thinking I shouldn't connect the amp/volt gauge like the tech suggested. I am confused also do I have an amp gauge or a volt gauge?
I am totally confused now.f I connect the gauge power wire to the volt gauge(it is not red/white) how to I get power to the rest of the gauges? The other gauges are 6 volt so I have them hooked to a voltage reducer. I really want all gauges to be working but thinking I shouldn't connect the amp/volt gauge like the tech suggested. I am confused also do I have an amp gauge or a volt gauge?
Hey Pappy,
I am really sorry about all of the confusion, much of it I caused.
I am assuming that you are using 12 volt negative ground ignition system correct?
Just wire your new battery charge gauge to the 12 volt positive, battery side, of your 6 volt reducer that will power your other instrument cluster gauges. That should do it.
As to whether this gauge is an ammeter or a voltmeter. I do not own one, but the ones I have seen advertised in the catalogs indicate it is a voltmeter with but with an ammeter scale. When you have it connected to a 12 volt connection, and turn the key, the needle will swing up towards the center of the scale, indicating approx 12.6 volts which corresponds to a fully charged 12 volt battery. When your truck is running, the gauge will show higher due to your battery is charging.
Hopefully they included a set of directions that will give you a wiring diaphragm.
Once again, sorry for the confusion. If you have any questions please let us know. Keep working on it! You'll get it done!
Hey Pappy,
I am really sorry about all of the confusion, much of it I caused.
I am assuming that you are using 12 volt negative ground ignition system correct?
Just wire your new battery charge gauge to the 12 volt positive, battery side, of your 6 volt reducer that will power your other instrument cluster gauges. That should do it.
As to whether this gauge is an ammeter or a voltmeter. I do not own one, but the ones I have seen advertised in the catalogs indicate it is a voltmeter with but with an ammeter scale. When you have it connected to a 12 volt connection, and turn the key, the needle will swing up towards the center of the scale, indicating approx 12.6 volts which corresponds to a fully charged 12 volt battery. When your truck is running, the gauge will show higher due to your battery is charging.
Hopefully they included a set of directions that will give you a wiring diaphragm.
Once again, sorry for the confusion. If you have any questions please let us know. Keep working on it! You'll get it done!
What connects to the other post? Or do you just hook up one? I guess I am still a little confused
Nt finishex
What connects to the other post? Or do you just hook up one? I guess I am still a little confused
Nt finishex
The other post would be going to a ground connection. So if you are running 12 volt negative ground, you simply ground it to a good ground.
So all in all, the new battery gauge postive connection goes to the 12 volt or battery voltage side of your 12v to 6v reducer, and your negative side of your gauge goes to a good ground. Then you are all done.
The other post would be going to a ground connection. So if you are running 12 volt negative ground, you simply ground it to a good ground.
So all in all, the new battery gauge postive connection goes to the 12 volt or battery voltage side of your 12v to 6v reducer, and your negative side of your gauge goes to a good ground. Then you are all done.
how do tell which post is positive and which is negative? I don’t think it was marked on the gauge
how do tell which post is positive and which is negative? I don’t think it was marked on the gauge
Yes sir Pappy!
Looking from the Rear of the gauge the Left hand terminal connects to 12 volts positive. It can connect to the same 12 volt terminal that is feeding your 12 to 6 volt reducer. The Right hand terminal on the gauge is your ground connection.
This might be a good time to actually add some grounds IF you need them. I am sure you have the NEG battery cable connected right to the engine block. Or maybe on a starter bolt. Then using that same connection point, run 2 more grounds. One to your firewall. The other down to your frame. Now all the grounds on your truck are refrenced to your main battery ground connection on your engine block. This is important as it keeps battery return current from wanting to use things like choke cables, accelerator linkages, drive shafts, even cooling systems from becoming primary current paths. At car shows I notice lots of folks ground fans, relays, and other accessories on to their radiator. Seems like a handy place to connect a ground but, Its not a good idea. Its not normally a good ground and helps contribute to electrolysis.
Hopefully this helps to hook it up!
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