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Old Jun 30, 2021 | 11:57 AM
  #1  
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Firewall removal

Hi all. I really try to search forums and find what I am l looking for but... 76 F100. Want to find some hints, tips and tricks in removing the firewall. Related post= https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nt-repair.html
Cowl rusted through into firewall. Need to remove it for inspection/repairs. Regards. Todd/jiyuu
 
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Old Jun 30, 2021 | 02:40 PM
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Here is a panel break down, and I would say that a BUNCH of other panels are connected to it. And taking it out as a single piece is going to require a bunch of other panels to be removed.


 
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Old Jun 30, 2021 | 03:32 PM
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Thanks 250. Yes it is a mess. As the drawing shows it has bowl sides and all abutting surfaces (cowl, sides and floor pans) are seam sealed/adhesive. Found a few rivets as well. I will await more comments to see if any ideas pop up. Thanks again. Regards. Todd/Jiyuu
 
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Old Jun 30, 2021 | 05:12 PM
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I once cut out some parts of # 020500 (door hinge mount area) and man was it a bear. I mean all kinds of panels connect in that area.

I have a couple of spare 79 parts Bronco's, (both with a/c) and a spare 79 parts cab (no a/c)...so if you need a certain off shaped patch panel cut out of the firewall/cowl, PM me. For the most part they are the same on the front end.




 
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Old Jul 1, 2021 | 11:47 AM
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250 thanks again. Finding a replacement cowl and firewall may be the route I need to take? I do have a friend that is a welder by trade. If I can get the firewall out or cut the rusted portion or the cowl and firewall out we may be able to fabricate something that will work. I appreciate you offering parts but shipping would probably be cost prohibitive? I think I will try using a dremel blade to separate the seams around the firewall? The top is already separated (rust and sealant) I could attack the bottom from the inside. The sides however are really tight. Regards. Todd/Jiyuu
 
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Old Jul 1, 2021 | 12:12 PM
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You might need to get a spot weld cutter drill bit. You can spend 11 bucks from Amazon and probably get 2 uses or Eastwood has a nice one for 30 or 85 and you can go to town with them.

https://www.google.com/search?q=spot...hrome&ie=UTF-8

IMO the cowl and firewall are alot of the trucks main spine and or backbone for all the other cab panels/parts to connect to. Have things locked in place (cross bracing?) when go to start removing big parts.

I was thinking of maybe you needing just small odd shaped patch panels. No worries.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2021 | 01:06 PM
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The cowl will stay in place (unless total swap out). If swap out (cowl or full cab?) is the case then the cross support would be important so thanks for the tip! Luckily the top, sides and insides going down to the vents are solid. Just a few inches of the bottom need repaired. To get to that however a hunk if not the full firewall have to come out.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2021 | 01:43 PM
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I would take out the least amount possible to access what is bad. The more you keep solid the better. How about a pic of the project.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2021 | 09:14 AM
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Learning how to use the site. Here is a link to my "Gallery" https://www.ford-trucks.com/g/album/21787660
Let me know if you can go to it? Did you want a pic of the cowl and firewall?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2021 | 09:57 AM
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Yes that link works, and it looks like you have it stripped down to almost the bare bones.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2021 | 10:54 AM
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Hey Todd, Nice truck for sure but WOW that's a lot of work!

I admire you guys that aren't afraid to dive right into a big project and rebuild these beauties.

As for me and my skill level...well, I feel more comfortable doing the little repairs to keep Cooter on the road and looking smart.

Keep up the great work and keep posting updates. The landscape tab (next to the Smiley tab) will help you import pix.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2021 | 12:23 PM
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Decided to go ahead and restore from the ground up. Everything underneath has been rebuilt or replaced in the past. (Long years sitting but loooowww miles) Rear end and motor rebuilt. Body bushings and tie rods. Transmission and transfer case original but no problems. I will send it in to get cleaned, flushed, inspected with new gaskets and bearings. Engine runs but will probably pull the heads and replace all gaskets on the engine. Front end original and needs some TLC. Need to install sleeves on the axle where the seal has caused a groove. Wanted to make it "+- street show level. Auto body shops want $20 K to do everything. One guy was honest and told me it really would not be worth his time. Insurance is the only way they make money now while keeping people that can do quality work. I guess I will be learning body work and priming now!
 
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Old Jul 2, 2021 | 12:30 PM
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Thanks Oval. As far as "diving in" it may get to the point that I find I am over my head and part the whole thing out. HA! That probably won't happen. I am pretty confident that I can get it done. YouTube is a great resource (as well as here). Never have done any body work or priming but what the hell. It may not look as good as a professional but I will own the work. Thanks for the pic tip. Your rig looks nice. I am thinking of painting mine a similar color. Metallic Ice Blue. Regards. Todd/Jiyuu
 
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Old Jul 2, 2021 | 12:40 PM
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P.S. Have had this thing since 1982 so "sentimental" value goes along way. Bought it for $3K with 5K miles on it.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2021 | 12:54 PM
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HA! 250 I finally found a post with my exact same problem you responded to back in 2017. You are a busy poster and I appreciate it.
 
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