Maintenance while bed is swapped
Truck has 175k miles and had a sander/salt spreader in the back before I got it. I was going to hit the frame with a knotted wire wheel and throw on some rustoleum Rust Reformer wherever practical. Top off with some Ag enamel paint.
I do have new driveshaft u-joints. I figured this is the time to put them on. Anything else?
Is there something I should do to the bottom of the new bed to make it last longer? It is rust free at this time.
Mike
Wire brush everything you can, rails, axle, everything.
Spray it down with Purple Power or Super Clean, scrub where you can to get it clean and grease free, rinse it off until it stops sheding suds. let it dry
Next hit it with Phosphoric Acid, keep it wet for 30-45 minutes with the acid, then wash it off and let it dry, wire brush it to knock off the white crusties that will form
Now paint it with Chassis Saver from Magnet Paint. Seals the bejesus out of the metal. Works best if you get it right on raw metal that's been acid cleaned. Expensive (90/gal) but worth it
I will definitely inspect the brake lines. Good call. Thanks.
for the gas filler vent hose use 5/8" marine boat gas line, its a perfect fit
Chassis saver is a hydroscopic urethane paint, it hardens when exposed to moisture in the air. Always pour out a little paint into another cup and put like a 1/2 an ounce of thinner back in the can to cover and protect the paint from air exposure. I will warn you ahead: It is IMPOSSIBLE to not destroy the lid of the chassis saver can when you remove it for the first time. Sooooo buy a gallon paint can and lid when you get the acid, and when you open the chassis saver pour the can into the new can with the nice sealable lid, but before sealing it, lay saran wrap or a plastic trash bag over the can then bang down the lid. If you don't, and any paint is in the lip, that can is sealed solid, that lid will NEVER come back off again. You'll be punching a hole in the can to get the paint out into a new container.
2 layers of chassis saver and god himself will need to intervene on behalf of rust. It might start rusting at the very edges, but mid span, impossible. Prep correctly and the paint will do its job every time. We've used rust bullet, KBS, Por-15, 2 part epoxy sealers and for the money Chassis Saver is the best deal and works as good if not better than the others.
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I broke the first Torx+ bit on the first bolt. All of them save 1 that was rusted through the bed had to be cut with a cutoff wheel. Parts of the bed supports just stayed behind when we lifted it off. I have a bed, bumper, receiver hitch, B&W turnover hitch and a step tailgate all from a 2013 f350 diesel to put on. I will just find a blanking plate for the DEF hole in the gas door opening. The receiver hitch looks similar to what is on my 2007 F250 but less rusty. Might be higher capacity as well but my tiny camper is about all the 5.4l can handle anyway. The bumper is full of backup sensors I will remove and plug. It is in much nice condition than mine so hopefully it bolts up also.
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I used Klean Strip Metal and Concrete Prep I bought from Home Depot. Full strength and brushed on. Dried overnight and power washed off. Painted the Chassis Saver gloss black onto the frame with a brush in every place reachable on the rear frame. I will need to get the truck up in the air and a creeper to paint under the crew cab.
I split the gallon of paint up into 4 quart cans I bought from HD. I just opened each quart can and painted metal until I ran out. Maybe it was a bad idea but I painted the entire underside of the '13 bed as well. Hopefully that prolongs its life.
Ford tried to sell me a $1300 fuel pump last time it was in the shop for an unrelated issue. They said it was "failing when hot". I put in a Delphi pump from CarQuest while I had access.
The chassis saver looks spectacular. The can says it is not UV resistant but this is under the truck so will I need to topcoat it with a primer and paint? I don't look forward to scuffing it all by hand if that is the case.
Thanks










