When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I bought a complete running 2001 f350 7.3 PS 4r100 cab and chassis parts truck for a future engine swap into a 93 f350 IDI ATS088 turbo truck. I understand there will be some firewall issues with the wastegate based on other peoples experience. But do I need a waste gate. Seems like alot of people defeat it or eliminate it all together. Can I safely eliminate the wastegate a reap the rewards of higher boost in a smaller package?
You can switch to a non-wastegated van style setup to get rid of it. It's a different turbine wheel, turbine housing and outlet adapter to the downpipe but good used van turbos are not that hard to find on ebay.
Strictly speaking, a van turbo without a wastegate is a somewhat different thing than a turbo that came with a wastegate having it wired shut or eliminated. Enough to matter? I don't know, but am counting on those who do to add to this thread.
That said, I've run with mine completely wired shut with a Turbomaster controller and been told here it can cause undo strain on the turbine shaft. I'm in the process of swapping to the KC turbine (and shaft), and plan to wire it shut again. So, I'm really interested in where this thread goes.
The idea is a smaller turbine housing will spool up quicker to give better engine responsiveness, and the wastegate door will open at the actuator set point to level off the boost and allow for better top end exhaust flow. A non-wastegated turbo is a simpler design that will likely give up a little spool responsiveness but depending on the use the truck this may not matter at all. I have a van turbine housing and KC turbine wheel and it spools perfectly fine for my use with no wastegate. This combo likely flows better at the higher boost/RPM than a stock "truck turbo" and yes getting rid of the stupid wastegate actuator and red/green lines cleaned things up a bit.
On a budget you could just wire the wastegate shut and delete the actuator. It will run in a pinch. I suppose it could also be tack welded shut but I'd be hesitant to permanently ruin the wastegate function like that. Up to you.
I'm not able to get a decent shot of it up in there, it's too dark. I even tried putting a light up in there. Maybe if I go out in the dark I can make out better.