U-Joint grenade :-(
U-Joint grenade :-(
I managed to survive the first RV hauling trip in my 1997 F250 a few weeks back. on the way back the vibration got bad. I attempted to replace an u-joint without removing the whole driveshaft assembly. I managed to replace the one behind the center support bearing. but i felt like it was clumsy and dirty, compromising the needle bearings. it felt about the same for a bit, then got worse. I managed to adjust the position this morning of the U-Joint in the shaft and it felt way better on the test run. So, I went to move a camper for a friend, on the way the vibration returned and after I picked her up, but before actually getting the camper the U-Joint blew out and compromised the support bearing :-( now Krusty is in the grocery store parking lot. i was almost able to remove the U-Joint. But it's stoopid hot here and I needed some more powerful tools. i could probably limp it home with the U-Joint replaced. but it really needs a U-Joint and the bearing :-(
did i mention the wife is moving out and I don't have a J O B? good times! need to start my country song writing career.
not a fun day.
did i mention the wife is moving out and I don't have a J O B? good times! need to start my country song writing career.
not a fun day.
went back out this morning when it was much cooler. got the old u joint out, realized I didn't have the right size replacement. so, back to O'reilly. got the right joint and borrowed their u-joint tool. managed to get it replaced and get Krusty home, slow and easy until I can check it all out. But, at least no big fat towing fee :-)
unloaded my tools and went for a real test run. feels real good, probably the smoothest since i've owned it. but i'm running without the clips on the U-Joints. one side was struggling to make room for both clips and i felt it was better balanced with none than 2 or 3.
i'll have to keep an eye on it and at some point rebuild the whole shaft assembly, but that will require some grinding or torching of a few bolts :-(
in any case, i know the warning signs now :-)
i'll have to keep an eye on it and at some point rebuild the whole shaft assembly, but that will require some grinding or torching of a few bolts :-(
in any case, i know the warning signs now :-)
but i'm running without the clips on the U-Jointss
Did you stake them at least?
So, as the drive shaft spins, centrifugal forces will throw the caps off.
Then your back to square one, stranded again, possibly doing damage if the drive shaft comes completely off.
^^^ What he said. You need those clips. If you think they don't want to go on, Get them started in the bore, and place a socket over the outer ring of the clip and give it a couple good whacks. It'll drop into the groove.
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pretty sure this is the issue. I'm doing this wuth the shaft on the truck. It's quite clumsy. I think I've got at least 2 in good, maybe 3. I may try again soon or get on with removing the whole shaft assembly. But I know almost every bolt will have to be cut out. But, at least I know which joint is the main suspect
Wow, yeah what they said! Buddy your story is sad, but it's just going to keep getting sadder if you don't do this correctly. I can't imagine trying to replace a U joint with the driveline in the truck and have it come out right. My guess is you've got one or more rollers in the end of one of the caps. You've got to fix that before you drive it anymore. Without clips those caps WILL fly out.
driveshaft removal in process. support bearing bolts are shagged. got one out. still working the other. surprised i got the (4) 12mm 12points loose without issue up at the transmission. I think I'll go get a new set of Torx bits before I tackle the u-joint at the differential. Of course, the T45 bit is the one that is slightly tweaked!
so not to sound all gloom and doom. I have 2 other dependable vehicles that are paid for to keep me rolling. A 1996 F150 4.9 with just 51k miles and a 2015 Mazda 3 with 70k miles.
so not to sound all gloom and doom. I have 2 other dependable vehicles that are paid for to keep me rolling. A 1996 F150 4.9 with just 51k miles and a 2015 Mazda 3 with 70k miles.
Toss it in 4.9 and bring it up. We can swap the joints easy enough...remember to keep the shaft in phase! Mark it unless previously marked. I purchased a vehicle once the PO had split the shaft to replace the center support, left it 180* out. Vehicle shook like crazy. Pulled, lined up factory marks, drove fine. 
I have had one of those little needles fall into the cap as the other guy pointed out, PITA to remove and reassemble.

I have had one of those little needles fall into the cap as the other guy pointed out, PITA to remove and reassemble.













