Help with harmonic balancer
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Mountain Pass
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Help with harmonic balancer
I have a 1964 F350 with a 292 Y block engine. Yesterday after a quick test-drive (around the block) following some carb adjustments I noticed the harmonic balancer has begun to wobble. I am looking for a replacement and may have found one for $200 shipped but will take some time to get here.
This is going to sound stupid but when speaking to an engine shop they told me the 292 ford engine and most of the y blocks were internally balanced and the harmonic balancer was redundant and not really needed. Anyone know if this is true? Obviously it contains the timing marks but could I just take it of for now until I get the one I plan on ordering.
This is going to sound stupid but when speaking to an engine shop they told me the 292 ford engine and most of the y blocks were internally balanced and the harmonic balancer was redundant and not really needed. Anyone know if this is true? Obviously it contains the timing marks but could I just take it of for now until I get the one I plan on ordering.
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Lead Gopher
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This makes it sound like the Y-block is internally balanced. If you removed the - let's call it the balancer - can you still bolt on the lower pulley that would drive the water pump and generator? I'm not picturing how you'd drive those items.
Engine Balancing, Part 2 – Eaton Balancing
Engine Balancing, Part 2 – Eaton Balancing
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Cargo Master
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It is a damper, not a balancer. I don't know all of the technical details so won't try to explain it but the 239 (and maybe 256, maybe '54 only for both) is the only Y that did not have a damper. That was simply a crank pulley. The rest had a damper. I would definitely use it.
Do not use an impact wrench on the crank. It is a 9/16" bolt. Make sure the transmission is in gear and the parking brake on so that the engine doesn't turn over before the bolt breaks free. You will need an installation tool with a 9/16-18 adapter.
Do not use an impact wrench on the crank. It is a 9/16" bolt. Make sure the transmission is in gear and the parking brake on so that the engine doesn't turn over before the bolt breaks free. You will need an installation tool with a 9/16-18 adapter.
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Mountain Pass
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Mountain Pass
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Yes that is correct head size is 13/16 misread I guess been a very long day, I tried the breaker bar with extension and the engine began to turn backwards with no movement of the bolt at all. Truck park brake is set and in 1st gear. I have google searched and some say heat some say it is risky? Others recommend the starter bump method?
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Mountain Pass
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Thanks, chocked wheels, but same deal crank turns before bolt will let go.
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Yeah or roll the truck up against something solid like a workbench, wall or whatever will make it impossible to move further. A mix of acetone and ATF as a penetrant works really well, too, if rust seems to be an issue. I've never had to use heat on the crank bolt.
Mountain Pass
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On other cars, a trick is to get a wrench like a long breaker bar and put that onto the ground and then bump the starter. I probably should not have mentioned because I do not know if that would work on an old Ford truck or not, but it works on rice burners. So if you’re stuck you might check into it.
Steve
Steve