When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am trying to figure out where to attach the chains to lift the engine.
the easiest is 2 head bolts. But I am not sure if removing them and then putting them back later will compromise head gasket or seal to the block.
Alternatively, I have lighted options on the block. The green goes from the rear drivers to the front passenger. And red is rear passenger to front driver.
I am lifting it to clean it and work on it. It is out of the truck.
3/8" bolt diameter is generally suitable. Just use a long enough bolt to get adequate thread engagement but not so long the bolt can bend. You'll add some washers of course.
I lifted my 215 cid I6 from the head bolts on the advice of an old school mechanic. It looked pretty sketchy doing so, and in retrospect, I probably wouldn't use head bolts I was intending to reuse again. It worked though, and I reused the bolts I used for lifting. I can report that four years out, and there haven't been any head gasket issues. It should be noted, I just lifted the engine. Having the added weight of the transmission, may have been a bridge too far.
I'd use a lifting beam for a long engine, especially if you are going to lift it up and over the fenders, into the truck. If you are just loading it into the bed to take it somewhere, chains are OK but keep the angle of the chains in a range to not overstress the chains. To get the angle and have enough lift to clear the fenders you need a really long reach cherry picker, or an overhead chainfall.
I don’t have an engine stand that I think will hold it. The one I have I used for my chevy 350 and I thought it was marginal.
I am using the hoist to clean and disassemble the running gear on it so I can paint it and get back together to go in the truck.
My neighbor has a bobcat we used to pull it out and will use it to put it back in when the time comes.
I also found one of those engine leveler which I had tucked away which should help out. It has for attachment points so it should make the whole process easier.
Given I have a 4bolt set up now I am
going to use the lifting points circles below unless that is a bad idea.
That should be fine and you can adjust if not. An engine stand that will hold a Chevy small block will likely work. The leverage is tough with a straight six. I won't lie I have seen a few engine stands start to bend but nothing catastrophic that hurt anything. Cut a 4x4 and wedge it under until you are sure . You'll know by tomorrow. This is a budget project right?
Definitely a budget project! My goal is to get all the existing mechanicals in good reliable order and drive it! The main upgrade is front discs and the appropriate master and booster. Otherwise clean up the undercarriage, detail the engine compartment leaving the firewall as is and make sure the suspension is in order. Wiring as necessary. This is a great truck to get on the road and then fix key components along the way.
The engine stand should be fine , I have a better and a cheaper one which is a little more flexible but I've had a 6.2 diesel on it .Your proposed lift points should be fine . I definitely wouldn't lift an engine with headbolts unless it was being rebuilt .
Ok. Will dig out the engine stand and get the block on the hoist so I can get it bolted up to the stand and see what happens. Certainly easier to work on if I can rotate it.
Project for next week. Neighbor needs to lift the pallet that the engine is on so I can get the engine lift close enough to the block to bolt it up.
Ok. Will dig out the engine stand and get the block on the hoist so I can get it bolted up to the stand and see what happens. Certainly easier to work on if I can rotate it.
Project for next week. Neighbor needs to lift the pallet that the engine is on so I can get the engine lift close enough to the block to bolt it up.
Thanks!
Here's what I do. Put the engine on the stand. Leave the lifting device over it with a slack chain so it can only drop 6 inches. Put an extra hundreds pounds of weight on it over night. On a couple occasions I've come back the next morning and a high dollar big blocks lower pulley was sitting pretty much on the ground as the stand slowly gave up over night. It's rare, but some of the early imported engine stands were real shaky. You can beef them up but it needs to be done before you wad them up lol. An iron straight six isn't heavier than a big block V8 but it is longer and puts a lot of leverage on a stand if all the parts are installed.
I used a standard engine stand to assemble and paint my Flathead 226. I too was worried about it but the only issue I had was I needed an extension handle to control rotating the engine.
Flatty 6 might be the most extreme example. An all iron Ford 300 6 is probably the worst common example due to length though. One helluva lot of leverage.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
