Front Brake rebuild
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 128
Likes: 21
From: Lebanon, TN
Front Brake rebuild
1996 7.3 4x4. I was thinking about new calipers, pads, brake lines and rotors this year. Possibly a new vacuum pump while I’m spending money.
I have a caliper sticking and might as well re do everything at once. It seems NAPA is the place to get parts, from what I have read.
Are the rotors difficult to swap on a 4x4? Any pitfalls to avoid, or tips from those of you who have done it?
Thanks in advance.
I have a caliper sticking and might as well re do everything at once. It seems NAPA is the place to get parts, from what I have read.
Are the rotors difficult to swap on a 4x4? Any pitfalls to avoid, or tips from those of you who have done it?
Thanks in advance.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 664
Likes: 129
From: Columbia, MD
If you're going this in and opening the hydraulic circuit, might as well do everything. All new hard and soft lines, master cylinder, rear wheel cylinders. Might as well replace all parts that require bleeding. And while you're in the rear brakes, all the small parts. You might consider hydroboost as well.
On my 350, the rotors are on the back side of the hubs. Hubs have to come off, and studs pulled and pressed. If you swap rotors, it's a good time to check wheel bearings, seals, and hublocks. When I did my hydroboost setup, I also had sticking calipers. But- the rotors looked good, so I left them on. Rear shoes were very good, and drums only needed some light sanding. Those stayed, as well as the rear antilock brake system (RABS) module. I got my calipers from Summit, master cylinder and rear drum parts from Bronco Graveyard. Hydroboost kit from Hydratech. Brake lines I think from Inline Tube. A pre-formed kit means no hassle with leaking flares.
I also did a reverse shackle kit with Superduty springs at the same time.
On my 350, the rotors are on the back side of the hubs. Hubs have to come off, and studs pulled and pressed. If you swap rotors, it's a good time to check wheel bearings, seals, and hublocks. When I did my hydroboost setup, I also had sticking calipers. But- the rotors looked good, so I left them on. Rear shoes were very good, and drums only needed some light sanding. Those stayed, as well as the rear antilock brake system (RABS) module. I got my calipers from Summit, master cylinder and rear drum parts from Bronco Graveyard. Hydroboost kit from Hydratech. Brake lines I think from Inline Tube. A pre-formed kit means no hassle with leaking flares.
I also did a reverse shackle kit with Superduty springs at the same time.
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