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The heater box is held in by the bolts on the firewall in the engine bay. After you get those off inside the cab is self evident. This is not a hard task. Napa has new heater cores but they are aluminum. While you have it out clean it up.
I'm doing this right now on my truck. Heater core sprung a leak. I'll take some pics for you tomorrow.
like Christmas says, it's an easy one, but also includes the hose clamps, control wire clamps and motor wiring.
The aluminum cores I saw online looked dubious due to pipes that appear too short. None were in stock locally except at pep boys. Sure enough, those pipes were too short to get through the firewall. Not sure if napa has it right.
I ordered from classic industries. Showed up today. It's copper. The pipes are correct. I might suggest doing the same
When removing the heater unit, I like to mark the control cable jackets (with a small zip tie) to note where exactly it was installed in the clamp, so I can replace it in the same spot.
Here are some pics of the unit on the bench. Once the heater unit is out, remove the rear cover to access the core.
I would suggest getting the foam bits that keep the air handling tight. I got a kit from Tom's Bronco parts, I think
If you're going to be waiting for parts and still want to drive your truck, just bypass the heater circuit with some hose - pic below of how I rigged it this time around - just a loop of hose to link the system at the water pump/block - tied up so it doesn't get caught in the fan. (my engine is likely different from yours)
Also a pic of my old core and the new one I got from Classic Industries. Again, the aluminum one that most seem to be selling has pipes about 1" shorter. I only have about 1" through the fire wall, so that would not have worked for me.
If you need more details on the R&R, feel free to ask.
new copper core form Classic industries
Transferring foam pieces from old core to new core, using a bit of spray adhesive
I need to remove the heater core in my 66 has anyone else done this who can give a bit of a clue as to where to start. Thanks
thanks for the help, I've removed the heater box only to find a previous owner has cut away some of the heater box, can someone please post a picture of the heater box do I can see what I'm going to have to repair thanks again This enr
The ones posted above are not the same as yours. '66 is different from the earlier models.
I can't find a good pic. I can take some if it will help, but I've got it re-installed and won't be able to get the kind of details you might need.
If you can spring for a new one, I suggest buying a replacement - yours's is pretty chewed up, seals are shot, one control arm is missing the 90 degree bend at the end for the control cable, (probably etc.)
Search online https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-class...QaAj74EALw_wcB https://shop.broncograveyard.com/196...8aAimnEALw_wcB
Thanks yes it is pretty rough,my friend is parting out a 73 f100 I'm going to check it out tomorrow hopefully it's similar although the truck is right hand drive .
Thanks yes it is pretty rough,my friend is parting out a 73 f100 I'm going to check it out tomorrow hopefully it's similar although the truck is right hand drive .
I have a 65-66 heater plenum if you need one. I’m restoring mine too, and have an extra housing/plenum. PM me if interested.
The ones posted above are not the same as yours. '66 is different from the earlier models.
I can't find a good pic. I can take some if it will help, but I've got it re-installed and won't be able to get the kind of details you might need.
If you can spring for a new one, I suggest buying a replacement - yours's is pretty chewed up, seals are shot, one control arm is missing the 90 degree bend at the end for the control cable, (probably etc.)
Search online https://www.cjponyparts.com/cj-class...QaAj74EALw_wcB https://shop.broncograveyard.com/196...8aAimnEALw_wcB
I was just going to point out that the 1965/66 F100/250 2WD uses a different metal cover with studs than your 66 F250 4WD - your truck uses the cover with 4 studs in a more or less square pattern - and 4 corresponding holes in the firewall. The 1965/66 F100/250 2WD trucks use a metal cover with 3 studs in a triangle pattern and 3 corresponding holes in the firewall. Here's one like I mentioned for comparison.
I suspect the heater cores with shorter tubes would work fine in the 2WD trucks. The 4WD type has longer standoffs for the studs.
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