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I hadn't heard about these before but from the catalog write-up it looks like there are setscrews in the hinge mounting flange that add/subtract a gap between the hinge flange and the door. I have always used shims....
Ok thanks for the responses. I see how they adjust now. the opposite of what I need to accomplish. I need to pull the rear of my passenger door in bit. After 20 years I decided it needs to be corrected. Yes I am a bit slow.
Ok thanks for the responses. I see how they adjust now. the opposite of what I need to accomplish. I need to pull the rear of my passenger door in bit. After 20 years I decided it needs to be corrected. Yes I am a bit slow.
If I am picturing it correctly, if your doors rear sticks out too far, you may need to adjust the pillar hinges out just a little bit.
I don't believe there is such an adjustment at the pillar.
There is adjustment there. Check out a picture from a 1956 manual below and look at the underlined information and picture of the hinge. Not sure what year your truck is but it should be similar.
Since I am not there this stuff is only a shot in the dark. But before adjusting anything else did you have a chance to check the adjustment of your striker?
It's extremely limited. Elongating the holes can add at least another 1/8" or so. At the back of the door you can move the latch post as long as solid repro door weather stripping isn't actually the limiting factor. And sometimes the door contour just doesn't match the cab lines from top middle to bottom and you are bending doors to dial it in. Moving the door closer to the rear of cab requires shims or an adjustable hinge. This is best resolved before you paint if that is the intention.
These were 50s trucks and I'm not so sure perfection was ever the goal at the factory. It gets harder after a cab moves slightly out of plumb and square for 65-75 years.
The drivers door fits very well. The passenger door gaps are spot on. The front of the door fits perfectly. The rear is not held by the weatherstrip. I will try drilling and tapping for adjustment but it seems that the front of the door will end up out too far??? I have adjusted the door latch in every way conceivable with no success. I am determined to improve the fit even if it requires a repaint.
Without being there I can only give you advice based on experience . First remove your striker assembly it is always best to get the door to fit then get the latch to work . If you have good gap and flush with the body all around except for your lower rear you will most likely need to bend your door . Any adjustment you make at the hinge will affect the front of the door also .That being said a small outward movement on your top hinge will move the rear bottom of the door in more than the front . PS pics would help .
Hooler1, what manual are you looking at? I have an original 53 factory manual that does not include that paragraph or picture. EBEAR, the door fits the same top to bottom at the rear. The striker was removed to insure that it was not affecting the fit.
A pic would definitely help. It sounds like you have the same thing going on that I do on one of my doors, and mine may needs to be bent after I remove the weather strip to be sure.
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