A close look at the pic below reveals rust on Cooter's roof. There is more rust all around the rear window of the cab, from one of those inflatable bladders that sealed the canopy to the cab.


In order to clean up this mess, I have been considering a Regular Tu-Tone upgrade to the roof and upper back cab panel of my truck. My other options include: Try match the 44 year old paint on the rest of the truck, or learn to love patina.
LMC has sent me a pair of bright drip rail moldings along with the bright cab back rail molding set, as well as some nice stainless window visors. Prep will involve removing the canopy and then washing off the rusty roof surface with a 3-M abrasive pad (of some kind?) and perhaps a wire brush? Obviously I will need some Paint & Body type tools; I have an electric pad sander that I use for wood working projects...not exactly sure what else would help?
Below are some similar dent-sides I found on the Internet, showing the Regular Tu-Tone treatment.




I considered a Combination Tu-Tone with Deluxe White Bodyside Accent Panels but am somewhat reluctant to mess with the original white tape stripes surrounding Cooter's dent side molding.


Now for the fun part: PAINT. This will be a rattle-can project or, as we say in the Great White North, Spray Bomb! Rust-oleum & Krylon are about my only choices up here.
The 1977 brochure lists Black or White Texture Painted Roof (w/ bright moldings). Okay...probably not black, but would that be Wimbeldon White? Does anyone have an idea what would be a close match to Wimbeldon White? And my spray bomb will probably be plenty textured without even trying. Seriously though, I really want it smooth, right guys? I hate the textured finish on the fiberglass canopy.

I've watched a couple of YouTube videos. Lots of sanding, filling any cracks in the drip rail, etching primer, high-build primer, more sanding, base coat, top coat, clear coat. It's not going to happen quick. But I'm trying to assemble the supplies I will need and could use all the help/advice that anyone cares to offer. Any shortcuts or 'cheats' will be considered. We all want cheap & easy. But, as a rookie painter, I would also like to learn proven acceptable paint and prep techniques, in order to achieve the best possible results...considering the limitations of spray paint. Thanks

 

Update: Research online reveals a few clues






We also did our monthly shop in Prince George and came home with a few goodies

New Tools: YIPPEE
5" random orbit sander $23CAD
8" buffer/polisher $44CAD
Supplies:
3-M Scotch-Brite pads
Lots of 5" hook & loop sanding discs 80, 120, 220
Sanding sheets 320, 400, 600, 800
phosphoric acid
glazing/spot putty
lacquer thinner
plastic sheeting
masking tape
Paint:
Dupli-Color Self Etching Automotive Primer
Dupli-Color Sandable Automotive Primer, White
Dupli-Color Acrylic Enamel, White
Dupli-Color Acrylic Enamel Clearcoat
Aerosol spray trigger handle
Turtle Wax Polishing Compound

I picked up the stucco roller when envisioning a textured finish on this project.
Please ignore the Bully Brand aluminum side steps in the background...that is a future project.
There is probably a whole list of items I forgot. Hopefully the canopy will be removed today.
This is a duplicate post from the 73-79 Forum but perhaps I'll get a bit more advice here?

 

My suggestion is to use actual two stage paint and finish it with a 2k clear. You can get both in spray cans if needed. If you do use regular spray paint I suggest a satin finish with a 2k gloss clear. I have done full trucks like this due to constraints. I suggest using the Spray Max 2k clear.

 

Thanx 390. The Spray Max 2K is about $40 a can and not readily available up here.
I was thinking of using the 2K clear for a more scratch-resistant finish, and as a final coat.
Is it possible to use Spray May 2K clearcoat over the Dupli-Color primer and acrylic enamel base?
What about the rest of the prep? I couldn't find the grease and wax remover. Is Dawn dish soap okay?
I feel most apprehensive about hand sanding with the finer grit paper in between the final coats.
I don't have a dust-free spray booth--just a shop with dirt floors and drafty windows.
Do you recommend plastic over the entire truck, to avoid over-spray?
How long between coats, what are the best sanding techniques, etc.etc.
YouTube helps, but I tend to do best with detailed written instructions.
There's not too much information printed on the spray cans.
I'll look for the Spray Max 2K...see what I can find.
As a first-timer, I really appreciate your advice.
I have a feeling this little project is going to turn out great.

 

Well you are going to need different sandpaper, I wouldn't go past a 320 on the prep and you are going to want a 400 for the wet sanding of primer. Cover the truck before spraying primer and make sure to pull the plastic before wet sanding. You will be covering it again anyway. Keep the floors damp to keep dust down, use acetone instead of lacquer thinner. Use a body shop safe soap like SEM soap or basic dawn soap. You will need 70 degrees minimum to spray paint or primer. The manufacturer will give a flash time on the product for re-coating. The 2k can be applied over any paint without issue. Just make sure the base coat has flashed but not cured. Never want to spray clear on cured paint or it will flake.

 

Perfect! Thanks again for spoon-feeding this advice. That's why I love this forum!
Okay...the Spray-Max 2K is ordered from Amazon. Do you think one can will cover the roof and cab back?
I'll get more sandpaper and some acetone. Dampening the floor is a good idea, when it is time to spray.
Temperature is important up here. This is a summer project, for sure.

 

A roof will take about 3 cans of 2k spray. Watch some videos on it, keep a wet edge when spraying and wait for it to flash before next coat.

 

No More Canopy. I think the truck looks better already.

Rusty Roof. "before" pix

The CB antenna is magnetic, so it will come off fast.

Close-up of passenger roof rust. This is the worst spot, ad may require a bit of filler after I remove all the rust.

The cab back needs some attention too.

I'll be ordering a new rubber seal for the rear window. Can the sliding beer window be refurbished (new felt for the rails, etc.) or should I consider a new one?

The drip rails don't look too bad. This is where the white will stop...with chrome molding to separate the Tu-Tone treatment.


Still waiting for Spray Max 2K Clear to show up in the mailbox.
Weather should be warmer this weekend...hopefully I can get started with some rust removal.

 

Update: The "heat dome" has passed, and my rt. retina has been re-attached, so here's some pix of a little rust removal.





The large black spots in the middle, and lower right, will get the phosphoric acid treatment...along with a few other small spots. After that, a thorough wash and it's "Off to the paint booth." (hay barn) for some primer.

 

Here's my update: At this point, the prep work was finished and the primers and first top coat was applied.

Then the weather turned cold and rainy for a couple of weeks, so progress ground to a halt. (decided to work inside on the bikes instead) Last weekend the weather was beautyful, so the painting continued.
Here's the results after the slider and belt trim were installed. I sure do like the finished product, especially the Spray Max 2K clear coat. It transformed an average paint job into a professional-looking finish. It was definitely worth the premium price. Thanks ford390gashog for the excellent recommendation. I will be using this product again. Anyhow...here's some pictures to document the results.






I have a great story about the rear window. I made my wife watch a YouTube video about dish soap and nylon twine. I was outside, wrapping the gasket around the slider while she was getting dressed and--from out of nowhere--this guy from Alberta pulls in the driveway and says he saw my truck, so he had to stop? He has 17 old fords, 3 crew cab dent sides, and is currently building one with his son. He is on facebook and some other crappy Ford truck forum, so I invited him to check out FTE and what goes on here. So, he helped me install the slider while she toodled down to the lake for a dip. The window went in with a bit of persuasion (tip: that thin nylon rope is slippery like an eel when soaked with dish soap, so wear thick gloves or suffer blisters on at least 3 fingers) Also, I didn't have small enough rivets on the plastic clips for the belt molding, so I drilled and epoxied screws to simulate the factory-brazed posts. We'll see if that holds'em. I'll get some better pix the next time l abscond with her iPhone. It should be buffed and waxed by then...