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I replaced the 30+ year old stock in tank fuel pump 2.5 years ago and it has failed after only about 10,000 miles! I believe the new fuel pump and sender assembly was an “Airtex” brand and now that I have to drop the tank to replace it again, I’m wondering if anyone can recommend a higher quality replacement? Please let me know.
Otherwise when I replaced the in tank fuel pump I put together an emergency external fuel pump kit and stashed it in the camper. Not a lot of fun installing it on the side of the road but it really saved the day. Now I’m wondering if I should get a regular (non-electric pump) sender / fuel pick up assembly and just run an external ( and easy to replace / service) frame rail mounted fuel pump going forward.
Any suggestions / advice / recommendations appreciated. Thanks!
The in tank fuel position is supposed to be better. Less noise from the pump, the pump runs cooler and is closer to the fuel supply being submerged in the fuel. But dropping a fuel tank is never fun. You are correct, if you could just find a higher quality chinese pump. I bet they are all made over there now, no matter what brand pump.
Since you have to drop the tank anyway, you might take a good look inside and see what the condition is, ie: clean or rusty. I'm going through that with mine right now. I dropped the tanks and found they're full of rust and corrosion. I've got 2 new tanks coming to go with my new selector valve on the frame to replace the jammed up old one. Instead of blaming the pump, it could be a bad gas tank shedding rust and destroying an otherwise good pump.
I had a NAPA/Delphi in my 87, new rear tank had to replace pump 3 times. (all under warranty but not my labor). The last one quit after 5 miles. Got an Airtex pump working fine. Delphi rep said there was nothing wrong with the last pump. Liar. I hooked it up direct and wouldn't work.
I had a NAPA/Delphi in my 87, new rear tank had to replace pump 3 times. (all under warranty but not my labor). The last one quit after 5 miles. Got an Airtex pump working fine. Delphi rep said there was nothing wrong with the last pump. Liar. I hooked it up direct and wouldn't work.
He did not tell you he bumped (dropped) it hard on the bench before he tested it
Dave ----
Thank you! I was looking at a Delphi replacement at NAPA but reconsidering now. Carter also has a replacement pump, thinking maybe I’ll try that instead. Otherwise converting to an external frame rail mounted pump is also very tempting.
I cleaned the tank when I replaced the pump 2.5 years ago. There was a very small amount of grit in the tank when I dropped it this time, but he sock still looked clean as new. I can’t imagine anything big enough to cause damage / failure getting past the filter / sock but who knows. The stock pump lasted 30+ years and was still running when I replaced it, but the flow and pressure was way under spec. I’ll have to call ford in the AM to see if they have any OEM pumps left in stock.
When you call Ford, see if they can give you the part number, even if they don't have one available. We may be able to locate a NOS one for you if it is obsolete.
When you call Ford, see if they can give you the part number, even if they don't have one available. We may be able to locate a NOS one for you if it is obsolete.
I’ll have more to report on the quest for parts and reassembly. Meanwhile, posting the hack here.
1986 Carbureted 460 E350 cut away RV 4180 carb. With Generator. Single 38 gallon gas tank.
Boom! My 3 year old Airtech fuel pump failed without warning after only 10k miles. When I installed it 3 years ago I came up with an emergency external fuel pump kit consisting of the following.. just in case.
- 12 volt external solenoid style fuel pump. Max 8 psi. - 1/4 ID hose Barb for the inlet side of the pump. - 3/8 ID hose Barb for the outlet side of the fuel pump. - fuse holder for 10 amp fuse and extra 10 amp fuses. - 3/8 ID (IIRC 1/2 or 5/8 OD) rubber fuel hose as necessary to go from the generator cabinet to the carburetor. - Wire as needed to go from the generator cabinet to the battery. crimp connectors, crimping tool. - Teflon tape to seal the screw in hose Barb threads - lots of zip ties
the plan:
There are three ports on the fuel tank sending unit; main fuel line supplied by the in tank fuel pump, fuel return line, and the generator supply line.
the generator supply line is just a 1/4” tube that extends 3/4 of the way into the fuel tank so all you have to do is disconnect the fuel line at the generator, install, plumb, and wire the fuel pump low down somewhere at the generator cabinet and route the fuel hose and wiring carefully up the frame rail and past the hot exhaust and moving parts to the battery and carb fuel inlet.
I have the metal hot fuel handling package still intact so I disconnected the main fuel line and capped it with a 1/4 socket extension and plugged the alternative fuel supply line to the BIG line. The smaller one is the return line and won’t help you.
Power is supplied to the pump by installing and removing the 10 amp blade fuse from the fuse holder at the battery.
Note: also unplug the fuel pump relay to disconnect the power to the main fuel pump. The fuel gauge still worked and remember, the generator supply line only extends 3/4 of the way into the gas tank so you will run out of gas with 1/4 tank of gas.
Got us off the side of the road, to the coast, and back home again. About 100 miles. I’m installing a new in tank fuel pump this afternoon, but I think I’ll improve the installation and leave the plan B external fuel system in place permanently. Just in case.
I'll be doing the same pretty much but plan on doing it inline with existing fuel system and plan on powering the external with a safety feature such as powered via oil pressure switch or tied into the existing fuel electrics if possible so if something bad happens the pump shuts off.
I’ll have more to report on the quest for parts and reassembly. Meanwhile, posting the hack here.
1986 Carbureted 460 E350 cut away RV 4180 carb. With Generator. Single 38 gallon gas tank.
Boom! My 3 year old Airtech fuel pump failed without warning after only 10k miles. When I installed it 3 years ago I came up with an emergency external fuel pump kit consisting of the following.. just in case.
- 12 volt external solenoid style fuel pump. Max 8 psi. - 1/4 ID hose Barb for the inlet side of the pump. - 3/8 ID hose Barb for the outlet side of the fuel pump. - fuse holder for 10 amp fuse and extra 10 amp fuses. - 3/8 ID (IIRC 1/2 or 5/8 OD) rubber fuel hose as necessary to go from the generator cabinet to the carburetor. - Wire as needed to go from the generator cabinet to the battery. crimp connectors, crimping tool. - Teflon tape to seal the screw in hose Barb threads - lots of zip ties
the plan:
There are three ports on the fuel tank sending unit; main fuel line supplied by the in tank fuel pump, fuel return line, and the generator supply line.
the generator supply line is just a 1/4” tube that extends 3/4 of the way into the fuel tank so all you have to do is disconnect the fuel line at the generator, install, plumb, and wire the fuel pump low down somewhere at the generator cabinet and route the fuel hose and wiring carefully up the frame rail and past the hot exhaust and moving parts to the battery and carb fuel inlet.
I have the metal hot fuel handling package still intact so I disconnected the main fuel line and capped it with a 1/4 socket extension and plugged the alternative fuel supply line to the BIG line. The smaller one is the return line and won’t help you.
Power is supplied to the pump by installing and removing the 10 amp blade fuse from the fuse holder at the battery.
Note: also unplug the fuel pump relay to disconnect the power to the main fuel pump. The fuel gauge still worked and remember, the generator supply line only extends 3/4 of the way into the gas tank so you will run out of gas with 1/4 tank of gas.
Got us off the side of the road, to the coast, and back home again. About 100 miles. I’m installing a new in tank fuel pump this afternoon, but I think I’ll improve the installation and leave the plan B external fuel system in place permanently. Just in case.
Before you disconnect the temporary setup, I wonder if it would work ok leaving the return system functional with the factory fuel separator hooked up. If you look at the gph or gpm of the little solenoid pump, I am wondering if it has enough capacity to supply the engine and circulate some of the fuel around at the same time. I think it might.
No problems with the 1/4 pickup size I guess. Never seen one that small supply a large v8.
Agree 100% Dusty, I think I can draw power for the external pump directly from the stock fuel pump relay which will provide all the stock safety features, assuming the external fuel pump doesn’t draw too much power for the stock wiring. Plus I really should add a fuel filter too.
Thank you Dave, FYI the return line was recirculating the way I had it set up. Agree the 1/4” line is pretty small to feed a 460. No problem maintaining highway speeds but otherwise took it pretty easy. I doubt the 1/4” supply line could keep up if I really got into the secondaries.
Meanwhile, tough day today. I replaced the in tank pump and reinstalled the fuel tank, but when I powered up the new fuel pump gas puked out the top of the carb. Stock pressure is 8 PSI but when I checked the fuel pressure it quickly maxed out my 15 PSI gauge... WAY too much fuel pressure.
According to the part number the pump specifications are correct and the new pump fit the sending unit perfectly so I don’t know what’s going on... except I’ll be dropping the tank again tomorrow for the third time.
Agree 100% Dusty, I think I can draw power for the external pump directly from the stock fuel pump relay which will provide all the stock safety features, assuming the external fuel pump doesn’t draw too much power for the stock wiring. Plus I really should add a fuel filter too.
Thank you Dave, FYI the return line was recirculating the way I had it set up. Agree the 1/4” line is pretty small to feed a 460. No problem maintaining highway speeds but otherwise took it pretty easy. I doubt the 1/4” supply line could keep up if I really got into the secondaries.
Meanwhile, tough day today. I replaced the in tank pump and reinstalled the fuel tank, but when I powered up the new fuel pump gas puked out the top of the carb. Stock pressure is 8 PSI but when I checked the fuel pressure it quickly maxed out my 15 PSI gauge... WAY too much fuel pressure.
According to the part number the pump specifications are correct and the new pump fit the sending unit perfectly so I don’t know what’s going on... except I’ll be dropping the tank again tomorrow for the third time.
Time to omit the in-tank and go with an external pump, I would opt for the Facet 40109 for your application this is a cube pump and can utilize the existing electrical for your in-tank pump. it will flow 32 GPH at a pressure of 4-7psi,. yes, not the cheapest option for an Elec pump nor the easiest but it will be the most reliable.
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