sure thing im in fresno

 

If he's pushing 1100 with moderate towing, I'd bet he's already got some black haze coming out the pipe at WOT under load.

 

agreed. and if that is the case, i am going to say too much fuel and improper timing.

 

It wasnt happy at 8°, 9°, or 6°. Alot of black smoke at 9°. Not much smoke at 6°. But egts were constantly around 1100°. My IP is maxed out. But like I said, 6 psi, doesnt feel much different than 12 psi... Just more noise.
Im eye-balling a 2001 7.3 power stroke to swap in since ive seem to have reached the towing capacity of this engine on anything other than flat ground.

 

If you're confident in your pump and injectors, get an upgraded turbo. The 088 should be pretty free-flowing on the exhaust side but not a great turbo.

Hell of a lot less work than a power stroke swap, but to each their own if that's how you're going.

 

from what I understand, the 088 and the 093 are the same turbo with different housing and mounting locations. Seems like most people are defeating or removing the waste gate on their 093 turbos. When you say, upgrade your turbo, what do you mean? CDD upgrade? Wicked wheel?

 

i agree that building that motor is a better route than swapping for now because of cost/time.

do you have a cold air intake? air in and out is most important as im sure you already know.

i would rebuild the turbo with a wicked wheel but without studs you dont want to go too high on boost.

what is the gearing on ur rig?

 

Driving habits have a big impact as well, I mention it because it hasn't been discussed in this thread yet. More rpm means lower egt. If you are rapped out in your situation then something needs fixed/improved.

In regards to the turbo, yes I'd make it a little bit bigger and more efficient turbo.

Personally, I don't recommend CDD. I'd give my business to Russ Repair, he's been in the business many years and can supply you in a timely fashion.

I Think you're right that 088/093 have the same cold side. I do know the exhaust side of the 088 is considered much less efficient. This is why you could be seeing no performance increase with more boost. I'm no expert, just my best guess given the information and my experience and limited knowledge.

The other possibility is that you need a cold air intake and an intercooler. I don't think it's this simply for the fact that most people with 093 and a maxed out pump, or even 90cc pumps get away without egt issues and seem pleased with their towing results.

 

I have the stock CAI that comes with the ATS088 system. Just a snorkle out the hood. I have 4.10 gears in my truck.
So heres my thought process.
Option 1:
New cam. $300
Upgraded turbo $800
Lower compression Pistons ~$300
Maybe an intercooler. ~$1000
Head bolts. $500
Might as well freshen up the engine while its out $1000.
So for $4000, I can have a 200 HP engine designed before the Macintosh was invented.
Option 2:
Buy a fullly overhauled IDIT engine will all the bells and whistles from someone who knows what they're doing. Im guessing that'll run me north of $7000. Hopefully, it'll be a better platform than modifying my 225,000mi engine.
Or for $2500, I can get a running F350 PSD and have an engine thats actually designed for 250 HP. I'll have to swap out the transmission for a 4WD transmission, plus some custom parts and a lot of personal time and bleeding knuckles to put it together. I havent seen many successful PSD swaps, so thats not a good sign.

 

The thing is, you shouldn't have the egt issues at this power level.

So, if I were in your position and knew I had a healthy engine with good compression. I would:

$500 - Do head studs one at a time to avoid re-gasketing - difficult in the truck but needed for peace of mind in my opinion
$500-800 (minus $500 that you sell the 088 kit for) - Upgrade the turbo based on a factory/093 kit, the up-pipes and overall kit is better.
$10 (with cut off wheel and welder) Upgrade the 093 style kit to a 3" downpipe
$750 Upgrade the compressor and exhaust wheels$250-$750 7.3 or 6.0 intercooler depending on how you source it

Here we're looking at $2000 or a little over.

Also note that with your rebuilt engine scenario you are set to increase fuel safely to 300-350 wheel horsepower.

Cam is a good upgrade, lowering compression is not necessary.

 

that intake is restrictive, take a look at the inside, its not conducive to good air flow, im sure you can make one as you sound pretty competent mechanically

i got mine from r&d and after wished i made my own, i suggest getting a 90 degree turbo boot and straight pipe with a filter on the end, mine came with an aem but there are tons of options thru ebay

i have thought about doing an engine swap too but i will put a 12v cummins in it as i have seen more of those than psd's into idi's plus i just like the mechanical platform over computer

i agree with plum that the 3" DP will help with egts which is what i have with 4" straight, they say a 3" exhaust flows enough but the DP is the restriction

i dont have an intercooler (yet) and the egts are manageable depending on rpms but its easier for me since i got a zf even with 3.55 gearing

i wouldnt do all the work you mentioned to that motor if ur long term is to swap but upgrading turbo and DP is something that shouldnt cost too much and will give you a good idea of your next move

like i said before i had a 6.7 and never slowed down no matter what the load or the hill but the CELs and complexity of systems compelled me to look for options

i like that my old truck cant go too fast while i am towing because i need external limits on my right foot for safety

 

Check the air filter. If she's not breathing easy it'll have high EGTs, smoke and be a gutless gob. Been there, done that.

 

By expanding your truck pics I see your front bumper does not have the additional air holes to the radiator like the later models (I thought '92's and later did). My ATS turboed 7.3 would also run hotter than I liked towing heavy in hot weather. As suggested to me years ago, I bought the later vented black trim piece from Ford, cut holes in my bumper and the additional air through the radiator DID bring my coolant temp down in severe outside summer heat. It ended up looking like a later stock bumper. EGT's are a different matter, their not dependent on engine coolant temp..The higher the RPM, the lower your EGT will be. With an auto trans you're kind of limited. I've got the close ratio 5 speed so I can stay at high RPM's at various road speeds. I pulled a 7000lb skid steer on my 4000lb flatbed 150 miles and with downshifting on the grades I could keep my EGT respectable.

 

this is what my filter indicator is saying. I keep my filter immaculately clean to keep this indicator happy. Ive thought about running it without a filter for a mile to see how it behaves.

 

Iam using the Wix Air filter which has the Foam Wrap on it.
I pull the Filter out periodically and wash the Foam in a bucket
of hot soapy water. It`s a pre filter and amazing how much dirt
it catches. It keeps the paper filter clean longer. Wix 46200
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=6192&jsn=454

Charlie