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A decent amount of my valves are tuliped on my 2013 Ford f150 5.0l and its causing major compression loss and im wondering if buying new valves and lapping them will be enough or if anyone knows if it does any damage to the valve seats that only grinding or replacing the seats will fix ? I have the whole engine out and Im going to replace the rings as well to be on the safe side .I brought it down to one of the local machine shops near me to have the guy measure everything and make sure I was still within specs and he said he would recommend a grinding them all down and whatever else is involved in a full valve job but he said for both heads it would run me over $1000. where as I can buy all new valves and lapping compound for a couple hundred bucks.
If you're looking to save $$ get a low mileage used engine complete. LKQ.COM delivers and gives a warranty. I'd also ask around about that price they quoted you, seems a bit steep unless they were replacing all the valves and seats. A brand new head with valves is just under $1000 each.
You could try lapping in the new valves but it's a crap shoot if you can get a good seal. Only way to know for sure is to try it and see if you get a good sealing pattern.
If you're looking to save $$ get a low mileage used engine complete. LKQ.COM delivers and gives a warranty. I'd also ask around about that price they quoted you, seems a bit steep unless they were replacing all the valves and seats. A brand new head with valves is just under $1000 each.
You could try lapping in the new valves but it's a crap shoot if you can get a good seal. Only way to know for sure is to try it and see if you get a good sealing pattern.
Thanks for the info. I am trying to get it done for as cheap as possible without being cheap on anything lol. most used engines im finding are about 3k or higher and a reman. isn't that much more.
its still keeping money in my pocket even if I did have to fork out a grand for a valve job plus other parts to put it back together. I don't want to if theres another option. The machine shop here has pretty much monopolized the area as he's one of two machine shops close by and the other one is no good.
id look for heads off a used motor but id be afraid they'd be doing the same thing as ive been hearing its pretty common on this motor.
if I do decide to give lapping them a shot do you know if the valves being tuliped would mess up the guides ?
Thanks for the info. I am trying to get it done for as cheap as possible without being cheap on anything lol. most used engines im finding are about 3k or higher and a reman. isn't that much more.
its still keeping money in my pocket even if I did have to fork out a grand for a valve job plus other parts to put it back together. I don't want to if theres another option. The machine shop here has pretty much monopolized the area as he's one of two machine shops close by and the other one is no good.
id look for heads off a used motor but id be afraid they'd be doing the same thing as ive been hearing its pretty common on this motor.
if I do decide to give lapping them a shot do you know if the valves being tuliped would mess up the guides ?
I wouldn't think so just keep in mind those guides will have as much wear on them as the rest of the engine and I'm not entirely sure they can be replaced or not. Been a while since I built a modular engine and back then if the guides were worn, we tossed the entire head in the scrap pile.
What it boils down to is how long you plan on keeping the truck, if any length of time it'd probably be best to just go reman and get a warranty to boot.
I wouldn't think so just keep in mind those guides will have as much wear on them as the rest of the engine and I'm not entirely sure they can be replaced or not. Been a while since I built a modular engine and back then if the guides were worn, we tossed the entire head in the scrap pile.
What it boils down to is how long you plan on keeping the truck, if any length of time it'd probably be best to just go reman and get a warranty to boot.
I probably wont have the truck for more than a year but I dont want to sell someone a pos. im thinking I will at least buy a couple valves and some compound ,try that on a couple and see if it seems like its leaving some decent rings and mabey turn the heads upside down and fill them with water and see if any leaks through overnight. if not ill probably go forward with the rebuild and I guess worst case if its still leaking compression ill be pulling the heads and looking for some new ones or having them rebuilt.
Originally Posted by Tom
Just out of curiosity, how many miles are on the engine? I don’t think I’ve heard of that happening to a 5.0 before.
its got 145k. this is the first 5.0l ive worked on so Im not really familiar with its problems but talking to the machine shop he says he has seen that quite a bit on them and I found a couple forums talking about it as well. The rest of the motor is still in great shape. everything is still well within specs. Hardly any lip on the top of the cylinder walls either.
I probably wont have the truck for more than a year but I dont want to sell someone a pos. im thinking I will at least buy a couple valves and some compound ,try that on a couple and see if it seems like its leaving some decent rings and mabey turn the heads upside down and fill them with water and see if any leaks through overnight. if not ill probably go forward with the rebuild and I guess worst case if its still leaking compression ill be pulling the heads and looking for some new ones or having them rebuilt.
Use gas not water, gas is thinner and will readily show a sealing failure and you don't have to let it sit over night, just long enough to see if anything drips from the other side is sufficient.
Use gas not water, gas is thinner and will readily show a sealing failure and you don't have to let it sit over night, just long enough to see if anything drips from the other side is sufficient.
Will do. Appreciate the insight.
Probably be a couple weeks or more depending on how quick i can get parts and how much time I have to work on it but I’ll post an update once I get it back in the truck.
The 2011-13 intake valves were a weak point. If the pan comes off, really inspect the rod bearings as well.
well at least mine made it a few more than 50k haha. Ive allready ordered some melling intake valves so hopefully they'll be the improved ones...
I have the pan off and all the pistons out to replace the rings, rod bearings are a pretty scuffed up on the backs but as far as I can tell theres nothing sharp or sticking up, everything seems to be grooves that will only fill with oil. ill do a better inspection before I reassemble.
Have you heard of problems with the rod bearings on these ?
Most common I've read about and youtube vids would be intake valves, next would be rod bearings. My neighbors 2012 F150 lost an intake valve last year. If mine was out for a valve issue I'd be doing valves, rod bearings and upgrade the oil pump to the melling 10396 (+5psi spring). Oil pump inefficiencies are just my own opinion. This is all assuming everything else was good.
I recently had my passenger valve cover off to change the VCT solenoids (my intake one was dead P0010) i was expecting to find an issue on #3 cyl as I've had a hot idle "knock" for 2 years and my stethoscope pointed to that cylinder. Valvetrain was perfect though, very clean so I suspect a rod bearing now on #3 and the sound is just traveling up that cylinder to the head. But I hope I never find out haha.
Most common I've read about and youtube vids would be intake valves, next would be rod bearings. My neighbors 2012 F150 lost an intake valve last year. If mine was out for a valve issue I'd be doing valves, rod bearings and upgrade the oil pump to the melling 10396 (+5psi spring). Oil pump inefficiencies are just my own opinion. This is all assuming everything else was good.
I recently had my passenger valve cover off to change the VCT solenoids (my intake one was dead P0010) i was expecting to find an issue on #3 cyl as I've had a hot idle "knock" for 2 years and my stethoscope pointed to that cylinder. Valvetrain was perfect though, very clean so I suspect a rod bearing now on #3 and the sound is just traveling up that cylinder to the head. But I hope I never find out haha.
Your probably right in suggesting new rod bearings, it would be cheap insurance since I’ve already got it torn down.
As for yours, it’s a ford it’ll outlive us all (finger crossed) lol
or just sell it saying it’s got an aftermarket cam
Obviously this is not a wide spread issue with these engines due to the sheer number of trucks built during those years and the lack of complaints about this issue online. I wonder if it was just a batch of bad valves from a certain supplier that could be identified by lot# to pinpoint what truck/car engines would be affected. Mustang GT's use the same heads/valves just different cams.
This is the 1st time I've heard of this valve issue on any 2011-2014 5.0 engine with low mileage.
Obviously this is not a wide spread issue with these engines due to the sheer number of trucks built during those years and the lack of complaints about this issue online. I wonder if it was just a batch of bad valves from a certain supplier that could be identified by lot# to pinpoint what truck/car engines would be affected. Mustang GT's use the same heads/valves just different cams.
This is the 1st time I've heard of this valve issue on any 2011-2014 5.0 engine with low mileage.
This is not uncommon at all. I have 54K on my truck with a cylinder misfilre. I will be pulling both heads and replacing all the intake valves. There are some good Youtube videos which clearly show the intake valves badly tuliped.
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