When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok, I asked this question in the appearance and dress up section but no one replied, so here I go again:
I was just wondering how difficult it was to take out the sliding rear window on an '86 pickup and put in a solid piece from the same year. I think I'd like to just pull the window out of another truck. If it's too difficult for a shade tree mechanic to do, how much would it cost to have a pro install it? Assuming that I have the glass already.
This is not a hard job to do. The opening is the same. Is the slider a 'Ford" slider or an aftermarket? The Ford slider will have a plastic 'c' bracket around the right and left fixed panes and will be about 1/2 in. thick. Most of these have a 'lockstrip' in the gasket that is (or was) chrome. If so then you will need to get the gasket with the solid glass as the glass is 1/8 in. thick and will not work with the slider gasket. Some of the solid gaskets also had the chome lockstrip also. Most aftermarket sliders have an aluminium frame and will work with the solid glass gasket.
All that being said, take a hooked tool similar to a cotter key tool and start working the gasket away from the pinchweld. Work all the way around the sides and top. Spray soapy water or glass cleaner behind the gasket as you go. Keep working and push the glass out, doing one end and then the other. Don't push too hard as the glass could break. When you get it out, remove the gasket and install it on the new glass. Insert a small rope (1/8-3/16) in the groove. Lubricate the pinchweld and the gasket with soap and water, set the glass in the opening and pull the rope slowly around the gasket. It should slip the gasket over the pinchweld. You may need to help it with your hook tool.
IF YOU HAVE A LOCKSTRIP TYPE GASKET... Pull the lockstrip, soap it down good, push out the slider unit, soap it again, install the glass and install the lockstrip with your "lockstrip installation tool" that you bought at your favourite auto parts store.
NEVER PRY ON THE EDGE OF THE GLASS WITH A METAL TOOL, you will get a nasty suprise if you do. Use a plastic or wooden tool.
I make my living doing this, hope this helps.
It can be easy or hard depending on how good you new aftermarket window and lockstrip gasket are. I replaced my old rear slider window with a new slider (84 f150)and it seemed like it would be easy to install. I was able to pop the old window right out. putting the new one was another story. It took days, because I kept giving up and putting the old one back in. I am sure it helps if you know what you are doing and do it for a living, but some of these aftermarket parts just dont work well. I was able to put my original slider with gasket back in with no problem each time I would give up on putting the new one in. The gasket does not cover the entire window opening. just a bit of the edges in lower corners)show, and it leaked there until I caulked it. I wish I had known about the lockstrip tool when I installed it. It is a miracle I did not break the glass. If I had to do it over again I would call a bunch of glass places and get prices on how much to install, you would be suprised at the differences in prices. I just replaced my windshield and had prices from 290 to 189. I took the 189. They also offered to install mine for a flat fee of 100 bucks and suggested that I get a window at the junkyard to save more money. good luck!
If your old slider is in good shape, you could probably sell it and recoupe some of your losses. You should be able to more than make up for the price of a plane piece of glass, as most people do the opposite of what your doing, they put the slider into a non slider truck. You could probably find a good non slider in the boneyard. Also, the back window should interchange from 80-96 no problem, maybe even more years.
Re: your back window problem. DO NOT TRY REMOVING ANYTHING COLD! after wanting to install a solid pane for my leaky, windy, shakey slider I found out the hard way the single pain willn't come out that easy. I was told AFTER to close the cab up tight and put a space heater in cab to make the seal good and plyable. It would help if the shop is at it's warmest or the shade under your tree is hottest depending on your working environment. Want to ensure an easy and painfree swap, contact your local glass shop, nobody does it better and in one piece!
Sounds good guys. Any guess as to how much the average U-pull bone yard would charge for a single pane? After much deliberation, I think I'll get the new glass, pull the old one myself, and take it to a shop. That shouldn't be too expensive...