Starting issue
#1
Starting issue
Ok to start off, this is my first experience with restoring a classic vehicle and I am doing my best to educate myself as I go. I have been trying to start my 1968 F100 and I am getting some fire out of the carb. From what I am told this is likely a timing issue. I found TDC on the engine and pulled the cap off the distributor. Am I correct in understanding that the rotor should be pointing at the #1 wire when at TDC? I have included a photo of the distributor. If the timing is indeed off would this prevent the engine from starting?
#3
I removed the #1 spark plug and placed my finger over the opening while I turned the engine over. Once I felt air pressure I looked at the harmonic balancer and lined it up with the mark at zero.
#4
Need to backup just a little here.
Did this ever run and if so what was done just before this "starting issue" started?
If never started / run do you have any other information that may help us help you?
I can see what looks like a Mallory dual point dist., Mallory used red caps & rotors.
I would take fine sand paper (400 or 600 grit) and with each set of points closed run the paper thru the contacts to clean them.
Over time they get a film from sitting and the paper removes it.
May want to check the point gap on each set to see if they are close to factory setting.
Now for the rotor not pointing to the right spot for #1 as pointed out it can point any where for #1 as long as the plug wires follow it.
I would say this could be the case as that is not the factory dist.
They may not been able to get the oil pump drive to line up and when they did #1 pointed to where it is.
I would leave it where it is for now and check that the firing order is right as that can be an issue if a wire or 2 are off the order.
Firing order off could be why you are getting fire out the carb.
The other is a intake valve that is bad or hanging open a little.
I have also seen where a exh. valve not opening will cause exh to back up into the intake track.
Part of the "tool box" should be a compression gauge, vacuum gauge, volt meter and a dwell meter if you keep the points.
Do a compression test will tell you if its a bad valve. I think I would do the test any way so I knew what shape the motor is in.
So in short being at TDC check firing order and if right do a compression test to see if themotor is ok.
Dave ----
BTW there is nothing wrong with that Mallory dist. as I have one in an AMC 360 motor, 1 pump of throttle and it fires right up!
I also have another but did a point conversion to it years ago that is in another AMC motor.
Did this ever run and if so what was done just before this "starting issue" started?
If never started / run do you have any other information that may help us help you?
I can see what looks like a Mallory dual point dist., Mallory used red caps & rotors.
I would take fine sand paper (400 or 600 grit) and with each set of points closed run the paper thru the contacts to clean them.
Over time they get a film from sitting and the paper removes it.
May want to check the point gap on each set to see if they are close to factory setting.
Now for the rotor not pointing to the right spot for #1 as pointed out it can point any where for #1 as long as the plug wires follow it.
I would say this could be the case as that is not the factory dist.
They may not been able to get the oil pump drive to line up and when they did #1 pointed to where it is.
I would leave it where it is for now and check that the firing order is right as that can be an issue if a wire or 2 are off the order.
Firing order off could be why you are getting fire out the carb.
The other is a intake valve that is bad or hanging open a little.
I have also seen where a exh. valve not opening will cause exh to back up into the intake track.
Part of the "tool box" should be a compression gauge, vacuum gauge, volt meter and a dwell meter if you keep the points.
Do a compression test will tell you if its a bad valve. I think I would do the test any way so I knew what shape the motor is in.
So in short being at TDC check firing order and if right do a compression test to see if themotor is ok.
Dave ----
BTW there is nothing wrong with that Mallory dist. as I have one in an AMC 360 motor, 1 pump of throttle and it fires right up!
I also have another but did a point conversion to it years ago that is in another AMC motor.
#5
Need to backup just a little here.
Did this ever run and if so what was done just before this "starting issue" started?
If never started / run do you have any other information that may help us help you?
I can see what looks like a Mallory dual point dist., Mallory used red caps & rotors.
I would take fine sand paper (400 or 600 grit) and with each set of points closed run the paper thru the contacts to clean them.
Over time they get a film from sitting and the paper removes it.
May want to check the point gap on each set to see if they are close to factory setting.
Now for the rotor not pointing to the right spot for #1 as pointed out it can point any where for #1 as long as the plug wires follow it.
I would say this could be the case as that is not the factory dist.
They may not been able to get the oil pump drive to line up and when they did #1 pointed to where it is.
I would leave it where it is for now and check that the firing order is right as that can be an issue if a wire or 2 are off the order.
Firing order off could be why you are getting fire out the carb.
The other is a intake valve that is bad or hanging open a little.
I have also seen where a exh. valve not opening will cause exh to back up into the intake track.
Part of the "tool box" should be a compression gauge, vacuum gauge, volt meter and a dwell meter if you keep the points.
Do a compression test will tell you if its a bad valve. I think I would do the test any way so I knew what shape the motor is in.
So in short being at TDC check firing order and if right do a compression test to see if themotor is ok.
Dave ----
BTW there is nothing wrong with that Mallory dist. as I have one in an AMC 360 motor, 1 pump of throttle and it fires right up!
I also have another but did a point conversion to it years ago that is in another AMC motor.
Did this ever run and if so what was done just before this "starting issue" started?
If never started / run do you have any other information that may help us help you?
I can see what looks like a Mallory dual point dist., Mallory used red caps & rotors.
I would take fine sand paper (400 or 600 grit) and with each set of points closed run the paper thru the contacts to clean them.
Over time they get a film from sitting and the paper removes it.
May want to check the point gap on each set to see if they are close to factory setting.
Now for the rotor not pointing to the right spot for #1 as pointed out it can point any where for #1 as long as the plug wires follow it.
I would say this could be the case as that is not the factory dist.
They may not been able to get the oil pump drive to line up and when they did #1 pointed to where it is.
I would leave it where it is for now and check that the firing order is right as that can be an issue if a wire or 2 are off the order.
Firing order off could be why you are getting fire out the carb.
The other is a intake valve that is bad or hanging open a little.
I have also seen where a exh. valve not opening will cause exh to back up into the intake track.
Part of the "tool box" should be a compression gauge, vacuum gauge, volt meter and a dwell meter if you keep the points.
Do a compression test will tell you if its a bad valve. I think I would do the test any way so I knew what shape the motor is in.
So in short being at TDC check firing order and if right do a compression test to see if themotor is ok.
Dave ----
BTW there is nothing wrong with that Mallory dist. as I have one in an AMC 360 motor, 1 pump of throttle and it fires right up!
I also have another but did a point conversion to it years ago that is in another AMC motor.
I will clean the points as you suggested and do a compression test. Is there some markings I can look for to confirm if it is a Mallory distributor?
thanks for the help!
#6
They where the only one I knew back then with a red cap & rotor with dual points.
IIRC there should be a tag on the side of the distributor saying Mallory and the model.
At least it ran and you heard it so if you don't go making adjustments it should run again.
Once you do the compression test check for spark at the plugs and gas in the carb as you need all that for it to start & run.
Dave. ---
IIRC there should be a tag on the side of the distributor saying Mallory and the model.
At least it ran and you heard it so if you don't go making adjustments it should run again.
Once you do the compression test check for spark at the plugs and gas in the carb as you need all that for it to start & run.
Dave. ---
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