2007 F-350 4x4 6.0 Powerstroke with around 153k miles
The truck has no issues whatsoever when starting up cold and it runs great. If I turn off the truck after it is warmed up and let it sit for about 10 minutes, it won’t turn back on, it’ll just crank. I have to wait for the engine to cool down before it’ll start back up. I already tried unplugging the ICP sensor with no luck. There is also an oil leak on the right side of the engine that started around the same time. These are the codes I pulled:
P0672
P0676
P0683
P2285

 

I had same problem a Month ago. I was going to take out ipr to do a quick pressure test. But when I took out ipr the o-rigs where shot there was a chunk missing. I put in New screen, spacer and o-ring. Runs and starts like a champ.
This was the culprit.

 

Hmm, I'm thinking a gunked up IPR usually won't start at all. The 2285 is for your ICP sensor located on the passenger valve cover. Look for oil leaking around where it screws in or the wiring/connector being shorted out. The other codes are for glow plugs, but those don't typically cause hot no-starts. Yours sounds like a classic hot no start caused by a slightly leaky o-ring. When the oil is cold and thin, it doesn't leak, but let it warm up and thin out a bit, and you can't build oil pressure. Leaks are commonly found on the dummy plugs, standpipes, oil rail nipple cups, and the injectors. If it's not the ICP, the official diagnostic procedure is to do an air test. However, you could do a bubble test in the fuel bowl and might luck into spotting an injector leak to narrow it down.

 

Mine started fine when cold. But shut it down, no start when hot. Most times a hot no start is a bad o-ring on eather, dummy, stand or ipr. I could be wrong but I think the bubble test would help. Like I said mine would start right up when cold, but warm, nothing but a spinner.

 

I have questions on oil leak. How bad is it? Does it just drip hear and there? Or is it pouring out? You could have blown a seal on hpop or oil cooler.
Follow the leak to be sure.

 

to be clear, there's no oring on the IPR. Maybe the 2285 pops if you try to start the truck with the ICP disconnected? I agree, dummy plugs are a good guess, but I'd air test before doing those.

However, I am cheap, so I like to try everything I can before spending money. I dont have air test capability right now, so I'd do two things first: 1) bubble test - easy, fast, tells you if the injectors are sealed. If bubbles, you can block one line to narrow down which side. It's not much more work to check 4 as one, so jump in. 2) I dont mind the labor to pull the valve covers and check the dummy plugs. Faster than waiting on brass fittings, you can tell from the hex head if they're upgraded, or just pull them out and look. Pretty easy.

If it's not those, the ICP or IPR, do an air test.

 

There is a little plastic spacer and o-ring below your screen cap. Just did mine.

 

Dang, you're right. I thought it was just a misplaced comma/whatever and you were just including a failed IPR in the list. I never heard of those orings failing. It's usually so slippery from me cleaning the valve, which is the only reason I ever take it out, that I don't even think about it hanging up. Did yours fail?

 

I don't recall the spacer, sounds like the one they added to the dummy plugs to help those o-rings. Has it always been there?

 

OP, I see you're new here. Gotta warn you, my Bonehead avatar is not a joke. I always have an opinion, but it's not always right. Most people know that and I try to warn the rest of y'all. There's quite a few guys here that really do know this stuff. They don't let me hose anyone up too bad. The moral of my story is that I usually end up getting my trucks working again, so if a Bonehead can do it, y'all can. I don't mind the responsibility of being a role model.

 

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Yah, that little o-ring had a chunk out of it. Put a new screen kit in and just like new. I did clean ipr real good and made sure no debris were left inside and valve was good. Runs like a champ, till next hiccup.

 

Well, dang if you didn't bung it up. I guess it can be kinda hard to find that hole back there; did you date much before you got married? ;-)

 

No, like most woman if you look close enough you'll find the defect. Unlike our trucks not all women can be fixed.

 

Didn't see you guys mention STC fitting off HPOP, I personally know at least one '05+ owner that the truck would run fine cold and then just die, and not consistently - thought it was D-plugs or Standpipes but it was the STC... Crack in the rear engine cover for the leak?

 

I forget what year the STC upgrade became standard, so I don't point it out as much to the later model trucks. I've replaced it on my '06 truck while I was in there.