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Hi Guys,
I have a 1971 camper special F250 with front disc brakes, and rear drums.
I have just gone through the process of replacing drums, shoes and disc rotor, calipers and pads.
Bled the breaks, got all the crap out the lines, no air, when bleeding the drums the pedal firms up, but by the time I am at the front doing the discs - the pedal is spongy, not really engaging much, and doesn't feel right.
Questions:
1. Was wondering if anyone here has any idea what the issue might be?
2. Considering replacing the lines as well - does anyone have a contact where to buy premade break lines for this setup?
Before you go bleeding the brakes you need to adjust the shoes for the drums out back.
You wil need a brake spoon to reach into the drum from the back side were the slot is.
You turn the star wheel so the shoes hit the drums. You can spin the drum to feel when the shoes hit the drums.
When it gets hard to spin the drums pump the pedal a few times to center the shoes and see if the drag is the same.
Also your truck most likely has a valve that needs to either be pulled out or pushed in when bleeding the system.
Dave ----
Before you go bleeding the brakes you need to adjust the shoes for the drums out back.
You wil need a brake spoon to reach into the drum from the back side were the slot is.
You turn the star wheel so the shoes hit the drums. You can spin the drum to feel when the shoes hit the drums.
When it gets hard to spin the drums pump the pedal a few times to center the shoes and see if the drag is the same.
Also your truck most likely has a valve that needs to either be pulled out or pushed in when bleeding the system.
Dave ----
1968/72 F250 2WD & F350 with disc brakes: Has a brake pressure differential valve and a metering valve. Lines from the master route to the pressure valve, located below the master.
Parts catalog pic shows the metering valve, but not where it's located.
Here’s a picture of where it is. It’s on the backside of the big front crossmember which has the engine mounts on it. You can see the pitman arm on the left. The photo is facing towards the front of the truck.
The little pin in the middle of the valve needs to be held open while you bleed the brakes. I think there’s a tool, but lots of guys just pull the pin out with some needle nose pliers, and then attach some needle nose vise grips to the stem to keep it pulled out.
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