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Changed the TPS plug. Still a little hard to start but it is idling a bit better now. Seems like the more of the wiring harness i clean up the better it is at idle. transmission rear seal was looked at by my local shop and i was told i can do it with it in the truck and the rear main seal will be attempted this weekend sometime. Thanks for the help and if i figure anything else out for the idle i will post it here.
This is the code reader most on here use. This is from Amazon but available elsewhere. Your issue could be a bad throttle position sensor TPS. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_skVHdgtMTU. Also you could check your fuel pressure with a loan gauge free from auto parts stores.
I got the code reader in yesterday. It will not power on just like the reader i had used at the parts store before. I had cleaned up the throttle body and the gasket was an absolute mess with obstructions to the air intakes and leaks at the top and a massive amount of oil deposited from the valve cover vent being routed to the intake over the years. Not sure what to do with the EEC test plug not powering on the code reader. The truck will go back and forth with hard starting or starting right up and idling a bit stumbly to idling fine. A blower motor under the hood stared up randomly with the truck off and keys out while we were standing next to it. Not sure what it is. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it stopped. I think i need to find a way to get a new harness all together or go to a carburetor intake with a holley sniper to get around this issue.
Pressure is too low, needs to be 50+, but more like 55-60, on 4.9L, make sure you check the 'Operating Pressure' before buying, example-Standard Ignition - PR18, is 47psi, and not enough.
Found a bad fuel pressure regulator and replaced. No it won't start and i got the code reader to power on. Code 34, egr valve, and 67, ac switch. Egr delete is on the way and going to drop the tank this evening because the fuel filter was pouring out brown fuel from the tank side. Going to check all the fuel system parts now. Anyone know the proper resistance that the sending units are supposed to read? I am going to try to fix the gauge problem while i have the tanks dropped.
From a subford post.....Service Code 67 indicates that during Self-Test, voltage was high on NDS (Pin 30) or ACCS (Pin 10) circuit. NOTE: Verify A/C selector is off (and shift selector is in PARK for E40D vehicles).
Your EGR code could have been from the truck not being at operating temp when you ran the test.
Also your clutch needs to be depressed when testing if you didn't do that. Only applicable to the 4.9 and manual shift.
From a subford post.....Service Code 67 indicates that during Self-Test, voltage was high on NDS (Pin 30) or ACCS (Pin 10) circuit. NOTE: Verify A/C selector is off (and shift selector is in PARK for E40D vehicles).
Your EGR code could have been from the truck not being at operating temp when you ran the test.
Also your clutch needs to be depressed when testing if you didn't do that. Only applicable to the 4.9 and manual shift.
I think the EGR is a problem because of the age a mileage. The motor was at temp when I ran the test. It started the no start problem after i got it home. The A/C compressor will not turn on for anything so i am tracking that. I am thinking the sending units are bad or the fuel filter was so clogged it would not get enough through, the pressure was 46 before and i have been told it should be above 55. I will check that this evening as well. I believe the truck was in some water at some point as well so i should know more when i get the tanks down. Thanks for the heads up on the clutch!
Pressure is too low, needs to be 50+, but more like 55-60, on 4.9L, make sure you check the 'Operating Pressure' before buying, example-Standard Ignition - PR18, is 47psi, and not enough.
check that they didnt give you wrong FPR, or you will still have the stumble off idle, because pressure is too low
Found a bad fuel pressure regulator and replaced. No it won't start and i got the code reader to power on. Code 34, egr valve, and 67, ac switch. Egr delete is on the way and going to drop the tank this evening because the fuel filter was pouring out brown fuel from the tank side. Going to check all the fuel system parts now. Anyone know the proper resistance that the sending units are supposed to read? I am going to try to fix the gauge problem while i have the tanks dropped.
To late now but a penny makes a good EGR delete. When you are working on the delete piece be gentle with the EGR tube. They get brittle from the heat and time.
Fuel filter allowed the fuel pressure to get up to 50. The only tank selector valve the parts store gad was the late model version with an electrical plug. Mine has the earlier version and i don't know if it will work or not. Still won't start. Every time i find a confirmed bad part, fuel pressure regulator pushing fuel out of the vacuum line, and fix it it makes more problems. I am getting to the point of frustration with this motor.
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