Cold starts
Edit: in the morning when I goto start it, it'll crank but not fire, it sounds like it's slow to crank but the batteries are brand new, I'll usually crank it for 5-8 seconds and it might putter once then sounds slow to crank, so I'll turn the key off and on let the plugs warm up again and crank it another 5-8 seconds, it's usually the 3rd or 4th attempt that it'll finally start, at which point it'll shoot out a cloud of white smoke for a couple seconds then it's good to go, it runs and idles fine and there are no service lights or codes. Just reading thru some forums I'm thinking it might have something to do with the injectors? Again any insight is appreciated. The truck has 205k miles, and if I plug the block heater in for a hour or 2 in the morning it'll start right up, first crank and no white smoke.
Thank you.
Last edited by Scottsashtray; May 24, 2021 at 02:04 PM.
New 5W-40 may help for a bit on stretching the replacement of the injectors. Not saying you are one of them but way too many owners are pushing the oil way too far between oil changes and it does have effects on the way our trucks run...
I would check to make sure your glow plug relay is functioning first. Its health is NOT indicated by the 'wait to start' light (the little curly light on your dash). That light is on a timer and doesn't actually tell you if the glow plugs are ready to crank. You can check it alone but it's easier with help, you'll need to check across the big lugs on it while someone else turns the key to on. If the ohms reading drops to something near zero you're good, if it stays at infinite you have an issue.
I think you also have an intake air heater (early '99s did not, late '99s and after did I think), which uses an exact duplicate of this relay. If this one is bad it will ALSO cause a hard-to-start situation. Checking is the same as for the glow plug relay.
If both of these check okay, then you need to check your glow plugs themselves, make sure they aren't burned off (they should be replaced every 100k as preventative maintenance, but I have heard of stock ones reaching 300k+). You will need to pull the valve covers to do this, which also means pulling the turbo pipes to and from the intercooler (an easy job). Be careful not to damage the valve cover gaskets, but while you're there check them for any damage, and throw a ohmmeter on the pass-through connections to make sure you don't have a break there too.
If, after all of this, it is still hard to start without the block heater, then you have bigger issues. It could be your HPOP failing, bad wiring somewhere (it is an older truck, chafing is always possible on a wiring harness), or any number of other issues. But definitely start with the GPR and IAHR.
EDIT: I just re-read your post and see that you've replaced glow plugs and the relay for them. I would still suggest the intake air heater relay before going after injectors. I have seen this relay being bad cause a 7.3 to refuse to start, even in warmer temperatures, and give the exact same symptoms you are describing.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-7-3l-psd.html












