When I got my 2017 XLT it didn't have a 5th wheel prep package, but I wasn't going to let that shy me away from a deal. Here's how to go about installing one, it's really not that hard, and really not expensive. The hardest part is lifting the bed, but that's easy with 4 or 5 of your buddies to lift it off. It's even easier if you have something to hoist it. You could even use some ropes/pullies to hoist the bed off. Again, it's not that heavy...

As far as "special" tools, you'll need a 3" holesaw, a 4.25" (you can also use a 4" if you have one, and just open it up to the 4.25" using a die grinder) and a EP24 socket for the bed bolts.

First thing you'll need is the hitch (obviously). I opted to find a dismantler and had them ship it to me. I used www.car-part.com. Anything from a 2017 and newer f250-f550 will work, theyre all the same. Find one with the outer frame brackets if you can. Sometimes they will sell just the middle bracket, but you need the outer frame brackets too. Total cost shipped to me was 270 bucks, and it came from a 2020 that had zero rust, and looks like it had never been used. I just had to buy the hardware to attach it to the frame.

You can also order new. Part number is LC3Z-5F057-A. It comes with all the hardware, brackets, and bed plug. They've been on backorder for a while, so good luck finding one new. You can also use a Reese 5th wheel hitch. They make the ones for Ford anyways...

Start by pulling the tailgate.. The 2 plugs for it is located on the inner driver frame rail. Pop the plugs off, and fish the wire up into the bed.


Holding the tailgate at a 45ish degree angle, pop off the cables from the bed, and line up the right side slot so the tailgate can be pulled away from the bed. Slide the tailgate to the right and set it aside. It helps to put a towel down on the bumper and where you set it down at before removing it...




Next step is purely optional. I did it because it only takes about 5 minutes, but makes it easier to pull the bed. There's also less of a chance of banging the bed into the cab because you get more room If you do not do this, you'll have to lift the bed at a slight angle while pulling it back, so get it to clear.

Remove the two bolts that tie the rear hitch receiver into the bumper.




Remove the bumper. There is one plug for the 7 way trailer plug, And 1 plug directly above that for your backup sensors (if equipped). There are 2 21mm nuts on each side just outside of of the frame rail that hold the bumper on. Remove those, the bolts stay in place on the bumper because there are keeper tabs on them.




Next is to unplug the harness for the bed. There are two plugs on the inside of the passenger frame rail. Push the plastic keeper zip tie thru to release the harness from the frame on the bed side of the plug.

 

Next you'll want to prep the bed for the kit. It's easier to drill it with the bed in place because there's enough room between the bed and the frame for your holesaw. The hole locations are centerpunched already. If your truck has linex, cut the linex out in the general location first to expose the centerpunch. Use a 3" holesaw for the outer pucks, and a 4.25" for the center gooseneck hole. Again, you can use a die grinder to open it up if you don't have the exact size, just scribe it out first before cutting.

After cutting, use a deburring tool. You can choose to paint the raw edge after cutting. It's not too critical since aluminum doesn't rust anyways... the trim rings will also cover your cut completely.





Remove the filler necks for your diesel and def fluid. Pop the plastic trim piece off first to gain access to the bolts. The clips are located on the left side of the trim piece. Pry up on the left side of the plastic trim piece right next to the diesel filler neck. The diesel neck screws are 8mm, and the def fluid ones are 5.5mm. Cover the necks with a rag, and push them down into the bed.

Remove the 8 EP24 bolts that hold the bed onto the frame. The nuts will self capture on the frame so there's no backup wrench needed. Note that if you're In a salty area, you may want to shoot some penetrating oil at the nuts before you begin.

Rig up your bed to lift (or call your buddies over for pizza and beer to lift the bed off). I chose to use ratchet straps to the 4 box tiedown points, and hoisted it with our gantry crane. Because the bumper is off, just lift straight pull up, and once you clear the wheelwells just go back and set it down on some sawhorses. You can also opt to just lift it up 4 to 6" and block it off the frame, so you have enough room to add the bracket.



Check to see if your frame has the inner brackets welded on (most do). If it does not,, install them first. Install the outer frame brackets.. Slide the Hitch bracket in place. Since mine did not come with hardware, I just used Grade 8 hardware. Install the bolts loosely that the hitch is held into place, but can be moved around.

Center the hitch using the locating holes. Line these holes up on the bracket in relation to the hitch.



Reinstall the bed onto the frame and check to see that your hitch lines up with the bed holes. Note that the bed will self align on the frame because there are 2 plastic pins on the passenger side that locate the box in relation to the cab.




If the clearances are good, remove the bed and torque everything down.. you must first tighten the frame side bolts first.. The 4 bolts that go through the frame are 9/16"x4". I used fine thread, with an all metal locking nut. Torque spec for that was 150 ft lbs. Next, The 4 outer bolts that hold the bracket to the hitch were included on mine, and that torque spec is 110ft lbs.(you can also use a 9/16"x1.75 fine thread here) Lastly, The 4 inner bolts that hold the bracket to the hitch weren't included, so I used a 5/8"x1.75" fine thread grade 8, with a torque spec of 200 ft lbs.

You can also order the bolts from the factory if you really wanted to.

HC3Z-5F057-BSUB2

Factory torque specs for the factory bolts is 184 ft lbs for the long frame bolts, 173 for the inner bracket bolts (torx head here) and 110 for the outer...




Reinstall the bed. You can reuse the bed bolts but note that ford calls these as a one time use. There is a misconception going around that its because the bolts stretch. The torque spec is 129ft lbs, which is not anywhere close enough to yielding the bolt. It's because there is sealant around the neck. Use your discretion if you want to replace them or not. I chose to reuse...

Reinstall everything else in reverse order. order racket for the bumper is slotted, so when reinstalling it line the nuts up on the bracket using the old marks as reference. You can also realign it if the factory did a **** poor job...



Finish off the install by adding the plugs and trim rings. Part number is BC3Z-99000A25-A

Install these by folding them slighrly, and work it into the groove while folded. Keep the folded edge up, and work the inside edge over the lip of the puck. The gooseneck hole is easy, the puck holes are more difficult. If you have trouble, set them in the sun for a bit to heat them up and make them more pliable.

 

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Nice job. I ordered my new truck with it installed. I knew it might delay it a bit because of it, but as you stated, they are on back order without an ETA. I figured it would just be better to pay than to have a truck that I can't tow my trailer with.

 

Nice write up I appreciate it as I am doing the same. Just ordered everything. Does anyone see a problem (I don’t) with using a jigsaw and taking my time for the gooseneck hole? I have a 3” hole saw but kinda hate to spend the money on a 4.25” hole saw for one use.

 

You don’t need to remove the bumper, just crawl under and hook up the cables. I used 4 friends to lift the bed off and put on sawhorses. Worked great.

 

You can. I would cut it smaller than 4.25 then use a dremel with a sanding drum to get it to size..

As in the original post you don't have to, but it eliminates the possibility of scratches or dents when pulling the bed since you have to lift and pull back to clear the cab. It takes 10 mins, it's not hard to pull...

 

Well I was thinking it would cost a lot more on second thought I’ll just order one. Heck it only has to last for one hole.