What a puzzle. I have 2 trucks that need U joints. I tried Auto Zone to help. It was either the new girl. (what are they??) or the other guy with a good luck. Basically it was a bring them in and we can try to match them.

Lets start. 1996 F250 extended cab. 7.3 diesel 4wd. I need all 3 U joints on the rear drive shaft. And the carrier bearing assembly. I want to get greasable U joints. I like Moog or other good quality.

The other is a 1988 F250 4wd. Standard cab with a 7.5 460 gas.I need both U joints for the front drive shaft.

From the research I have found the 88 takes Moog 265s. I order a set to replace the joints on the rear shaft and If I recall the caps were the same diameter, but 2 caps were for internal lock rings and 2 were for external. I needed all internal. Rear shaft done (by swapping caps), but want to work on the front. I would rather have parts sitting here than tear it all apart and wait. Any listings on what part numbers are what size?? and if they are internal or external??

BTW Zone also said there are 2 different carrier bearings a 35 mm and a 40 mm. Ugh.

 

You went to Autozone and expected help? While I don't favor Moog for anything that's not my choice. There is plenty of sellers of Moog that offer packages with all the joints.https://www.moog-suspension-parts.co...packagedeal480

 

Well, I know Moog as a brand, So I am not looking at duralast or silver... If you know a better brand I am interested.

As far as zone for help. I know they can print up tickets with part numbers. I tried the online for part numbers and it was all jacked up for U joints... Sometimes the store computer has better listings than the store website.

Thanks for the link, Will check it out. Most of my joints have been replaced already, so just looking for individual part numbers.

 

for stock replacement joints Spicers are probably one of the best (I’ve also heard that non-greasable joints are stronger than greasable fyi). have you checked rock auto for the parts you need?

 

I used to use greaseable Moog's but even with greasing them frequently they still failed before a non-greaseable Spicer. And yes, greaseable are hollow in the X, non-greaseable are solid & stronger. Not as crucial in a driveshaft, but for the front axle I won't run anything but non-greaseable Spicer for the strength.

 

Stay with the Spicer U Joints. Moog is on par with the rest of the imported junk. I suggest having the shafts done by a driveshaft shop. It's less hassle and pulling the center support bearing without the right tools is a hassle. I would opt for the Spicer Life series and those are the same ones I have used in hundreds of shafts for the last 10 years.

 

Yep, I think one of the biggest problems with parts availability today at the big parts houses (ie O'Reilly, AutoZone and yes even NAPA) is the difficulty in getting a solid joint that day. They'll be swimming in greaseable u-joints and look at you like you're ordering a latte if you insist on solid.

OP, you really don't want greaseable and here's why:

 

Good video there. Yeah for sure on availability. Funny enough, there was a parts store worker that tried to show me the light on this topic long ago, I thought she was nuts at the time, I just kept buying greaseables.

If you can plan things out, ordering online is the way to go. I've found Amazon and Jeff's Bronco Graveyard to have good pricing on these Spicer joints. If you need it now, greaseable store branded stuff will get you by, but just plan on doing it again soon-ish.

 

I have the carrier apart already. For some reason last year and this I have replaced a lot of U joints. All the ones I have replaced have been non greasable... But it was probably their time. Question on the video, at the 2:49 mark the Spicer U joint is apart and looks hollow? It may not be hollow all the way through the center X. Yes the Spicer premium does seal a lot better and looks stronger.

Thanks for the info.

 

So no, they're not hollow but they have a little counterbore to store grease.

In other trivia there's another vid out there.....from the vo-tech instructor in a wheelchair if you've ever seen him....and he talks about how each cap is filled with a PRECISE amount of grease at the Spicer mother ship and you should denote where each cap comes off the cross and it should go back to the exact same place (the theory being varying amounts of grease stay with the cap or the cross with each one when you pull the cap off).......

......yeah I don't know anyone who does that and I sure ain't gonna start. I've watched vids of Tom Woods assemble shafts and they just yank all 4 caps, throw 'em on the bench and then randomly reinstall, which is exactly what I do. I very much doubt we're seeing a lot of premature failures because .01 ounce of grease got mixed up, but maybe I'm just lazy and ignorant....

 

Even Rockauto was messed up. Best bet was to pull the U joints and measure them. I crossed the measurements to part numbers. Seems my F250 4wd automatic, the U joints that fit listed them as a 2wd with a manual trans.. Eh I just finished putting them in and going to take for a ride later. New carrier bearing/support too.