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I always like shape and reliability of ford car. I have been thinking about getting diesel truck in next a few years. Currently, I am thinking about psd 6.0 or 2014 cumin 6.7 because I do not want to have automatic trans. However, if there is too much advantage of having psd 6.7 comparing with those two two trucks, possibly thinking about getting psd.
For myself, I do not trust any body shop at all because I have really ripped off experience when I was young. Since then, I do take care of my car by myself. I even have manufacture repair manual for each owned car. Top of that, I usually own genuine OEM scanner for my own car ( I have already have ford IDS, Chrysler Witech, Nissan C3P) so I can program computer if I have to replace computer. So I fix my car by myself all the time. I am this kind of guy.
For above reasons, I need the truck accessible to all of engine compartments. Therefore, my current choices are those three trucks. I know that psd 6.7 requires cab off for major engine work, but it seems that a lot of key components are accessible.
Reason for 6.0 is that I really like style of sporty looking, manual trans, locking differential, less computer components, and much simpler truck comparing with other two. The problem is that many these trucks are either high milage or rusted really bad. I believe that higher milage truck probably needs to deal with engine components such as piston ring and so on. Top of that, need to replace bpd egr cooler, air-to- oil cooler, head gasket, possibly cylinder head, front end, and wear out parts. However, I believe that the total cost would cheaper at the end of the day comparing with newer cumin or PSD. For 6.0, I don’t know if it worth to fix and drive another 10 years or so??
For cumin 6.7, I heard so many mix review regarding to emission parts dpf, def and SCR system. Some people say not problem at all, but some people say that they had to replace within 50k or so…… Another thing I do not like about cumin/ram is that RAM truck has sooooooooooooo many recall. It is ridiculously higher number of recalls even comparing with PSD 6.0. PSD 6.0 is overall much less recalls and complain (I checked “car complain.com). Then, no offense, but their cumin forum seems so horrible to me. Most of the thread related to problem solve section are most of the time no solution or update what so ever. So it does not help at all. Top of that, I was kind of laugh about one thread. So some cumin guy asked about reliability of 2013 ram 3500 emission. One guy answered that “oh I have exactly same truck, and I drove 450 miles. No problem at all!!”. I laugh a lot. To me, it should not get emission issues with that really low miles. I saw these kinds of responses a lot in cumin forum. I feel like that that kind of responses are quite stupid (NO OFFENSE). For ford forum, the community is more helpful, and there is always “end”. Anyway, I know that cumin is known for reliable, but other components seem broken down a lot in low milage. So to me, sounds like the total repair cost is higher than owing PSD 6.7. Then, cumin 6.7 is accessible so it is easy for me to handle truck.
For psd 6.7, I really like it. The problem is only auto trans only and not easy accessible to deal with engine. Otherwise, PSD 6.7 is powerful, nice interior, nice looking truck, and much less recall/higher reliability. However, only con for me is no manual trans. That is the only reason why I am not that into it. However, if psd 6.7 is much better than lest of two trucks, I might consider.
I checked that cumin 5.9 mega, but men it is really low payload like 2700 lbs for 3500 drw. That is really payload.
The reason why I want to have diesel truck is that I am planning to tow car and travel trailer in future, and I do not want to have feel like gas truck which makes me feel sick.
I am sorry for write such a long sentence, but I thank you for reading and appreciate if you share your experience and concern. Thanks a lot!
Welcome.
I've had both 6.0 and 6.7 . The 6.0 can be made to run and be reliable, but it needs a lot of help. Unmolested 6.0's are few and far, the greater majority have had major work done by now, either through having fun with tunes and mods, or by necessity with miles and use.
Studs, MLS head gaskets, upgraded turbo, addressing oil filtration, EGR (through Bulletproof Diesel parts or delete), FICM (volts and tune).... the list is long. But the end result can be a fun and reliable motor.
The 6.7 is tied to an auto trans, but is superior in every way. Torque, HP, capacity, towing ability, reliability. You may never need any special tools or scanners.... it's that good.
Drive both, decide what you want. Most of us that went from 6.0 to 6.7 would never go back.
Lots of guys want a Cummins in a Ford body. I want an older 7.3 body and VIN on a 16 and up frame with a deleted 6.7. It's a cheater way around emissions, and the end result would be a towing beast with classic looks that would be ripe for upgrades and individual choices.
Good luck with your choice either way.
Thanks, CP Dubbs! Yeah, I know how good 6.7 is. Dream truck will be ford frame with cummin engine. I saw that a few fummins with 10 PSD body with 5.9 cummin engine on it. However, I concerned about emission test in future. Currently, they use OBD2 to check emission now, and I think that they are going to check all of detail of condition since VW emission cheat scandal happened before. So what I am thinking is that I should get fully emission stock truck for future proof.
I am kind of wondering how is emission related components in PSD 6.7 is going? Did you get any issues? I know that so many people deletes those emission stuffs. It seems less trouble comparing with ram truck.
Thanks!
No 6.0 Powerstroke came factory with a locking differential and the 6 speeds are hard to find. All brands of 08+ trucks have issues with the SCR, DPF and EGR, deleting all of that is the best option on those trucks. Otherwise find a 7.3 Powerstroke or 5.9 Cummins if you want something 6 speed, reliable, and easy to work on, look for one with a manual shift transfer case as well.
thanks, 00t444e! It seems that that is the only choice! Men, I really wish that Ford makes manual trans for newer truck although I know that auto trans is more beneficial for towing etc comparing with manual trans. However, I really like driving manual trans because of complete control! thanks again. appreciate it
thanks, 00t444e! It seems that that is the only choice! Men, I really wish that Ford makes manual trans for newer truck although I know that auto trans is more beneficial for towing etc comparing with manual trans. However, I really like driving manual trans because of complete control! thanks again. appreciate it
There is not anything about a manual transmission that offers more control than the 6R140 auto. Select the “M” position on the selector, push the +/- button to select the gear you want, only without the clutch. Same thing only different.
There is not anything about a manual transmission that offers more control than the 6R140 auto. Select the “M” position on the selector, push the +/- button to select the gear you want, only without the clutch. Same thing only different.
You have way more control with a manual transmission, you can feather power in with the clutch, it stays in whatever gear you put it in, super low granny gear, and you can disconnect power from the driveline instantly. You don't get the same feel you get when shifting through the gears in an auto as you do in a manual either, there is no comparison.
No 6.0 Powerstroke came factory with a locking differential and the 6 speeds are hard to find. All brands of 08+ trucks have issues with the SCR, DPF and EGR, deleting all of that is the best option on those trucks. Otherwise find a 7.3 Powerstroke or 5.9 Cummins if you want something 6 speed, reliable, and easy to work on, look for one with a manual shift transfer case as well.
Respectfully disagree.
There have been some problems with DEF tank heaters, but those are few. Repairs are well documented, and if handy like the OP says, would not be a problem.
If you use the truck as intended, to tow or haul loads vs. a Cowboy Cadillac hauling groceries, the SCR, and DPF work as intended. EGR has been in since 03. Early models had some teething problems, especially in the 6.0 because of really poor design. It's really a non issue in the 6.7, and if it would be, the EGR is now external on the left cylinder bank.
Also, depending on where you live, deletes simply are not an option.
My 6.0 was all legal, with emissions intact using Bulletproof Diesel parts. I had a mild 50HP FICM tune. That truck hauled anything I hooked to it, ran well, and got 20 MPG on the highway. 15 towing my 10K travel trailer. But it took over 4000 dollars to get it to that point.
And my 6.7 runs rings around it, while still scoring 12MPG towing 18K plus. Unfortunately, that took 57,000 dollars to get that....
Respectfully disagree.
There have been some problems with DEF tank heaters, but those are few. Repairs are well documented, and if handy like the OP says, would not be a problem.
If you use the truck as intended, to tow or haul loads vs. a Cowboy Cadillac hauling groceries, the SCR, and DPF work as intended. EGR has been in since 03. Early models had some teething problems, especially in the 6.0 because of really poor design. It's really a non issue in the 6.7, and if it would be, the EGR is now external on the left cylinder bank.
Also, depending on where you live, deletes simply are not an option.
My 6.0 was all legal, with emissions intact using Bulletproof Diesel parts. I had a mild 50HP FICM tune. That truck hauled anything I hooked to it, ran well, and got 20 MPG on the highway. 15 towing my 10K travel trailer. But it took over 4000 dollars to get it to that point.
And my 6.7 runs rings around it, while still scoring 12MPG towing 18K plus. Unfortunately, that took 57,000 dollars to get that....
They are all falure points, even when working it restricts your exahust flow, makes you burn more fuel, engine runs hotter and wears out quicker. Egr sends soot back into the intake manifold which gums everything up, and compressing soot from the egr wears your cylinder walls out quicker.
Also no 6.0 is getting 20 mpg highway unless it is a 2wd single cab with no load and good tuning, 15mpg towing 10K is even more unrealistic, were you going off of the overhead display?
Respectfully disagree.
There have been some problems with DEF tank heaters, but those are few. Repairs are well documented, and if handy like the OP says, would not be a problem.
If you use the truck as intended, to tow or haul loads vs. a Cowboy Cadillac hauling groceries, the SCR, and DPF work as intended. EGR has been in since 03. Early models had some teething problems, especially in the 6.0 because of really poor design. It's really a non issue in the 6.7, and if it would be, the EGR is now external on the left cylinder bank.
Also, depending on where you live, deletes simply are not an option.
My 6.0 was all legal, with emissions intact using Bulletproof Diesel parts. I had a mild 50HP FICM tune. That truck hauled anything I hooked to it, ran well, and got 20 MPG on the highway. 15 towing my 10K travel trailer. But it took over 4000 dollars to get it to that point.
And my 6.7 runs rings around it, while still scoring 12MPG towing 18K plus. Unfortunately, that took 57,000 dollars to get that....
I know that many key components are outside of engine in PSD 6.7 so it would be very easy to replace parts. Did you sell your 6.0 and switch to 6.7 now? I am kind of wondering why you switch to 6.7 even though you have reliable 6.0.
They are all falure points, even when working it restricts your exahust flow, makes you burn more fuel, engine runs hotter and wears out quicker. Egr sends soot back into the intake manifold which gums everything up, and compressing soot from the egr wears your cylinder walls out quicker.
this is why you still keep 7.3 instead of 6.7?? I know older engine is more simple and less problematic comparing with newer computerized truck. Have you consider switch to 6.7?? I want to keep truck for long time next I buy one. That is why I was thinking about getting 6.0, but same time 6.7 is more advantage overall......... thanks
You have way more control with a manual transmission, you can feather power in with the clutch, it stays in whatever gear you put it in, super low granny gear, and you can disconnect power from the driveline instantly. You don't get the same feel you get when shifting through the gears in an auto as you do in a manual either, there is no comparison.
Well, sir, I have driven them all.....4X3, 4X4. 5X4, 6X4. 9 speeds, 10 speeds, 13 speeds, 18 speeds for @ 2 million miles, and you are correct. There is no comparison......however.in my PICKUP, I will still take the 6R140......”M” it stays put in whatever gear you put it in, can ease into what ever you are pulling just like feathering the clutch, can pop it right into “N” and be disconnected from the driveline.......just don’t need to be on the clutch in the process. IDK why they thought they had to change it out for the 10R140; I guess FoMoCo is just being FoMoCo and absolutely must change things every few years.
this is why you still keep 7.3 instead of 6.7?? I know older engine is more simple and less problematic comparing with newer computerized truck. Have you consider switch to 6.7?? I want to keep truck for long time next I buy one. That is why I was thinking about getting 6.0, but same time 6.7 is more advantage overall......... thanks
I would consider a 6.7 if I found one that had been well maintained, and was't outrageously priced, I would also delete it. I wouldn't have a non deleted 6.7, I would rather have a 6.2 gas truck than any of the newer diesels that still have all the emissions equipment on them.
Well, sir, I have driven them all.....4X3, 4X4. 5X4, 6X4. 9 speeds, 10 speeds, 13 speeds, 18 speeds for @ 2 million miles, and you are correct. There is no comparison......however.in my PICKUP, I will still take the 6R140......”M” it stays put in whatever gear you put it in, can ease into what ever you are pulling just like feathering the clutch, can pop it right into “N” and be disconnected from the driveline.......just don’t need to be on the clutch in the process. IDK why they thought they had to change it out for the 10R140; I guess FoMoCo is just being FoMoCo and absolutely must change things every few years.
Can you put it in 6th gear going 30 mph and hold the pedal to the floor and it won't downshift?