Let's talk fan diodes!
I’m curious why you need a diode? Unless you are running a brush type permanent magnet motor, there shouldn’t be any back emf to worry about if the fan pinwheels.
Michael
I’m curious why you need a diode? Unless you are running a brush type permanent magnet motor, there shouldn’t be any back emf to worry about if the fan pinwheels.
Michael
I have a relay pack that is oe on Volvos. It controls a 2 speed fan, turns low speed off when high activates. I was wondering if there is a way to use it with my dual single speed fans. It would mean running the low and high leads from the Volvo pack into the single + lead of each fan. But if low is live, it would send current up the high speed lead and back to the relay. Is that a problem? Would a diode solve that? Thanks.
Having said that, I think you might have the same problem with current spikes with the Volvo controller if it is mechanical relays. I can think of a scenario where the Volvo controller might help and that’s if it uses mosfets as the output device. That might provide enough of a soft start to reduce the spike. In that case, diodes make sense.
A diode will drop ~.7 volts which won’t make much difference in fan speed.
Let’s search for solid state cooling fan controllers. I’m at work now so I’ll try to get back to you later.
Michael
The volvo controller is a simple pack of relays. The low speed output is a smaller gauge wire that feeds less amps.
I can't find any 30 amp diodes for automotive use. I've searched Summit, Amazon, and ebay. There must be something I don't understand, and since I'm sort of an electrical dummy, that is a rather large possibility.
I may try to wire it up with the Volvo controller and try it as is.
I found a sort of Ma and Pa shop that is one guy making what seem to be good quality controllers. What do you guys think? www.autocoolguy.com
The controller you linked to is how I’d do it and is probably how OEM’s do it on higher end and performance models. PWM is Pulse Width Modulation. Think relay or toggle switch suppling power. If you toggle it slowly, the fan will run slow. Toggle it faster and the fan will run faster. He also says it has soft start which means the current is limited on start to make the motor last longer and help prevent voltage drop due to high current draws.
You will have trouble finding a 30 amp diode in the shape you may be expecting. At that current, heating is a problem which means either a TO-220 package or a stud mount. At 20 amps, you will be able to find the normal cylinder with 2 leads that you might be expecting.
Michael

The volvo controller is a simple pack of relays. The low speed output is a smaller gauge wire that feeds less amps.
I can't find any 30 amp diodes for automotive use. I've searched Summit, Amazon, and ebay. There must be something I don't understand, and since I'm sort of an electrical dummy, that is a rather large possibility.
I may try to wire it up with the Volvo controller and try it as is.
I found a sort of Ma and Pa shop that is one guy making what seem to be good quality controllers. What do you guys think? www.autocoolguy.com
I like the devices the AutoCoolGuy has, but dang are they friggen expensive... I can't justify paying that for a controller that will burn out one day when there are literally 1000's of free relays sitting in the local junk yard. I would go the relay route, but that's because I'm cheap.
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The controller you linked to is how I’d do it and is probably how OEM’s do it on higher end and performance models. PWM is Pulse Width Modulation. Think relay or toggle switch suppling power. If you toggle it slowly, the fan will run slow. Toggle it faster and the fan will run faster. He also says it has soft start which means the current is limited on start to make the motor last longer and help prevent voltage drop due to high current draws.
You will have trouble finding a 30 amp diode in the shape you may be expecting. At that current, heating is a problem which means either a TO-220 package or a stud mount. At 20 amps, you will be able to find the normal cylinder with 2 leads that you might be expecting.
Michael
Not sure how to proceed. Having an inline six with the long block really limits my options with fans because of space. Things would be much easier if I had a two speed fan. But, maybe I should be using a PWM controller.
I have both a Volvo fan and a Taurus fan also. Maybe I'll experiment with location, and see if I can fit one of those around my p/steering, etc.
Thanks for the help.
P.S. It just occurred to me. Is there a way to delay the starting of one of the fans? If I could start them one at a time, with, say, a 15 second delay before the 2nd fan kicked in, that would really help with the current spike.
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Another thought is, is it voltage drop due to high current that's knocking the MSD out or is it high frequency noise from motor brushes at high current? If it's noise, a capacitor or 2 across the motor leads might fix it. Search for rc brushed motor capacitor for examples but be prepared for a deep rabbit hole.
Edit, how expensive is the current temp controller you are using? Could you get another and set it 10-20° higher. That would delay the second fan, it may not even come on at all if the first one can keep temps down.
Michael
Last edited by lasermike; May 4, 2021 at 08:32 PM. Reason: 2nd t-stat?
30 Amp - 1000 V Diode - STTH3010W - TO-247 - 1,000 Volt - 30 A - Tj 175C - 42ns | eBay
I now use one Taurus relay to control each fan. The relays are activated by one thermo switch. I believe that a start delay of maybe 15 seconds to one of the fans might solve my problem. One fan starting would be half the amps (about 14 amps with an initial spike of 25 amps) and half the spike. If the engine doesn't hesitate when the single fans starts, or when the second fan kicks in, then I will have solved the problem. My 130 amp alternator should be able to supply plenty.
I'll let every one know how it went.
I have a second fan.thermo/relaythat will come on full but only at a higher temp.
There are modules that will control two fans.










