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I'm rebuilding the front brakes on my 66 P100 and wondering if anyone could provide me with the wheel nut torque and the torque for the wheel bearings? It's been a long time since I did wheel bearings so a refresher on them would be appreciated. (I do remember that you should pack them first, step 1 is covered), but from there it's a little fuzzy. Thanks for any advice.
I assume a P-100 has the same running gear as an F-100? My '65 Ford Trucks factory shop manual shows 1/2-20 studs are 65-90 ft lbs (spec'ed with lubricated threads, surprisingly). Most manufacturers want 90-100 ft lb on a half-inch stud with clean, dry threads, which probably results in the same bolt stretch and clamping force.
For an F-100 you are supposed to torque the adjusting nut to 17-25 ft lb, then back off 1 to 1-1/2 castellations. I never liked this technique because it's easy for the tire monkey to do, but you have no idea how much end play there actually is. Too loose is better than too tight, but not by much. I'd set it with a dial indicator to .002" of play, myself...
Thank you Dr, The P100 has a straight axle, if I'm not mistaken by 66 Ford was using Twin I Beams under the F-100. My guess is they were using the extra straight axles they had in stock. Eventually I;m going to break down and buy a copy of the FSM. John
You're right, the F-100 and F-250 got the twin I-beam in '65, but my F-350 also has the straight axle - they didn't get the twin I-beams until '67 Was the P-100 new for '66? I didn't see a reference to it in my '65 manual, at least in the wheel torques and wheel bearing pages...
I'm sure there is a torque spec for that nut somewhere; I don't have one. I've never used a torque wrench on a spindle nut nor have I seen anyone else use one.
I think that might be because the old-fashioned method works better.
Eric.
Dr. Charles, I believe the studs are 1/2", 3 1/4" apart. The wheel has about a 3 7/16" pilot hole. They are 5 hole wheels. Hopefully that answers your question. I hope to get it back together tomorrow, I had all new parts except the drums, figured I'd be able to clean them up and reuse 'em, but the popping noise I heard was the left drum coming apart. The holddown pin and spring was gone from one shoe and I think that shoe acted like a cutting tool and slowly cut a groove in the drum. At least when I'm done I shouldn't have to worry about the front brakes for a long time! John