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Hi All,
Our master cylinder is leaking and I'm leaning towards the upgraded hydro boost replacement. I'm sure I have a ton of reading to do but I was hoping for some guidance on what needs to be replaced, removed, bypassed or upgraded to make this work. Truck is a 97 with a build date of 9/96, red head steering box and a new PS pump (OEM).
Anyone been through this that wouldn't mind a brain dump or a link to a well laid out tutorial?
Booster $475, lines $265 and MC (1 1/4" CC) $125 gets a little steep but stopping is important. We redid almost the whole truck (not this part though) so the PS pump is new along with the lines now that will be junked and we installed a red head gear box so I'm leaning towards just going new.
Are there other places you'd look for these parts? This is the first website I looked at (thanks @Jarrett Campbell ) so open to other options if you all had preferences/experiences.
I upgraded mine several years ago after reading through several threads here and other places. As I recall there are a couple of things to watch for. Not all master cylinders come with a pushrod and according to urban legend for some reason you can’t remove and re-use the old one. Also, some master cylinders have a slightly different bolt pattern and I had to open up the bolt pattern on mine with a die grinder. It was not a big job.
About the cost, I bought the parts individually, not a kit, and I don’t recall the cost but if it was expensive I would recall.
I’m very happy with the results. At first there was a noticeable lag when the front disks engaged immediately and the rear drums took a moment to catch up. That was because the rear shoes needed adjusting. One other benefit was getting rid of the mechanical vacuum pump which now is only needed for the cab air vent controls. I replaced it with SD electric pump. One less set of bearings to worry about seizing up.
I found a used hydro boost for $100 and a local shop that makes hydraulic hoses that I might go to and see if they can make them up.
Question. I was told I need a pedal and an abs delete valve. I read about people replacing the pedal, but is that needed on all trucks? Assuming it’s the rod connection point. Trying to see if I need to source that.
Also, what are your thoughts on the abs delete valve, is it needed? Can any elaborate?
About the pedal, the hydro boost connection to the pedal is in a slightly different location and the push rod will run at an angle with the original pedal. It is pretty easy to modify it yourself. Maybe try searching for something like Hydroboost Pedal Mod.
About the need for ABS delete, I really don’t know any details about that one way or the other. I left mine alone and didn’t delete it.
I had a hydraulic shop make my hoses. They are a lot better than the automotive hoses.a
The nornla brake pedal works. The linkage is at a slightly different angle then the proper pedal setup. People have run it though and it seems to work, even if less then ideal.
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