insulation for the shop
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: northeast Ga
insulation for the shop
I have a 24 x 30 Quonset hut shop , summer Ga heat makes it like an oven . Had a guy give me a quote of $3100, to spray 2 inches of foam . Has anyone use this on a metal building does it work and is the price in the ballpark ?
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 166
From: Oregon
That's high for my area I would get a few more quotes. I had my 34x60 barn done, (both floors) for under 5K. It helps with the heat, but not great. It does keep it from sweating which is an issue up this way.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
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From: Brentwood, TN
Insulation will help only if the interior environment is controlled...closed windows and doors to hold out hot/humid air from the outside. Assuming that you have a sealed enclosure you could add a dehumidifier to make the air feel more comfortable. If you're just looking to keep the sun from baking the building you may be batter off planting some shade trees around the building.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
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From: NM
I had 2" - 4" of foam sprayed on my 24 x 32 garage's steel roof, which is slightly sloped. It was sprayed on the outside (top surface), not inside. I paid about what they are quoting you 15 yrs ago, I'm sure costs are higher now. The difference it made was night and day. Before that I couldn't stand to be in there, even with all the windows and doors open and fans running. The heat radiating down was brutal. Now when it is 90°+ outside and sunny it is comfortable (walls are not insulated).
I assume they are quoting to spray the inside of your building? I don't know how well foam would adhere to curved galvanized steel without chicken wire or some other support. You will want to move everything out of there or thoroughly cover it when they spray, it is a messy process.
I assume they are quoting to spray the inside of your building? I don't know how well foam would adhere to curved galvanized steel without chicken wire or some other support. You will want to move everything out of there or thoroughly cover it when they spray, it is a messy process.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lanco-5-...86-2/202081836
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,175
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From: Burbank, WA
When I built my house I had the insulators apply an inch of spray foam to seal all the holes and nooks and crannies in the attic before they blew in the R49 cellulose. I think I paid a little more than that for it, but I would agree it could pay to shop around. One thing you will never regret is spending money on insulation. It pays for itself in both hot and cold weather.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2012
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I have 2" of foam and then 6" fiberglass insulation in my walls and blown in in the ceiling. 40x48x14 building. I can heat it with 1 small electric heater. ( I wired it for 3). Not a big addition to my electric bill. And maintained temp ok at -20F. And I have 12x12 doors that are opened several times most days. So I am a fan of the spray foam.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Walla Walla Washington
At work we put 6" of spray foam on the ceiling of a building and it worked extemely well. It was wood however and not steel like your building. I have seen it used sucessfully on new steel roofs and have not heard of it falling off. The only thing I can think of that might cause you trouble with adhesion is if you have run engines in there, especially diesels and the steel is no longer clean. In that case you may need to scrub it clean prior to spraying the foam.
I looked into a steel arch building like yours years ago and that company had plastic studs about 8" long that screwed onto the bolts that held the steel panels together. A lightweight panel was attached to the other end of the stud providing a 8" deep cavity that was then filled with blow in insulation. Not sure how well that held up.
B
I looked into a steel arch building like yours years ago and that company had plastic studs about 8" long that screwed onto the bolts that held the steel panels together. A lightweight panel was attached to the other end of the stud providing a 8" deep cavity that was then filled with blow in insulation. Not sure how well that held up.
B
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: northeast Ga
One big down side , is having to move all the stuff that now lives against the walls , sitting in the shop and looking around is scary . It would be a great time to clean out stuff I may never use , but as soon as you trash something , you will need it . I also have to admit I will never do another major project . So I think I will pass on the foam and when it gets to hot to work I will head inside and have a cold drink .
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 16,882
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From: SE Wisc. (the Rust Belt)
One big down side , is having to move all the stuff that now lives against the walls , sitting in the shop and looking around is scary . It would be a great time to clean out stuff I may never use , but as soon as you trash something , you will need it . I also have to admit I will never do another major project . So I think I will pass on the foam and when it gets to hot to work I will head inside and have a cold drink .
PS, I'll remember this post when your rubbing us northerners faces in the snow in the middle of December and you're bragging about sitting outside in shorts. I can heat my shop a lot easier than you southern inhabitants can cool yours.
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The foam is a good idea but use the closed-cell type, it's fireproof.
To reduce heat by an enormous amount paint the roof with high gloss white. Trust me, I have experienced this firsthand sitting on a fishing dock while fishing in Texas. The dock was terracotta with 4 white squares panted at both ends, and the middle. We only sat on the white squares. The rest of the dock was too hot to touch!
Do not use silver, it is like painting it gray, and it only works very little.
To reduce heat by an enormous amount paint the roof with high gloss white. Trust me, I have experienced this firsthand sitting on a fishing dock while fishing in Texas. The dock was terracotta with 4 white squares panted at both ends, and the middle. We only sat on the white squares. The rest of the dock was too hot to touch!
Do not use silver, it is like painting it gray, and it only works very little.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,294
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
The foam is a good idea but use the closed-cell type, it's fireproof.
To reduce heat by an enormous amount paint the roof with high gloss white. Trust me, I have experienced this firsthand sitting on a fishing dock while fishing in Texas. The dock was terracotta with 4 white squares panted at both ends, and the middle. We only sat on the white squares. The rest of the dock was too hot to touch!
Do not use silver, it is like painting it gray, and it only works very little.
To reduce heat by an enormous amount paint the roof with high gloss white. Trust me, I have experienced this firsthand sitting on a fishing dock while fishing in Texas. The dock was terracotta with 4 white squares panted at both ends, and the middle. We only sat on the white squares. The rest of the dock was too hot to touch!
Do not use silver, it is like painting it gray, and it only works very little.
That product I linked in my post above is excellent for reducing heat, by reflecting 90+% of sunlight. It is even sprayed on asphalt shingles for that purpose.
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