1966 240 knocking
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1966 240 knocking
From what I can tell the knocking noise is coming from the front of the motor and at the bottom. PO said it had a bent wrist pin. But I pulled plugs while she was running and it made no difference. I also had the balancer rebuilt in the hopes that was it. My next step was going to pull the timing cover and check my gears. Just trying to look for the easier things in the hopes of not having to pull the head right now. Could it possibly be my oil pump or maybe even my fuel pump?
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2015
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From: Tri Cities, TN
It would be virtually impossible to bend a piston pin. Those things are as hard as Chinese arithmetic. It is possible for the pin hole in the piston to wear enough to knock a little. A wrist pin knock is usually a dull thud most noticeable at idle.
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so I pulled the cover and everything looked great. I'll go ahead and link a video later
Logistics Pro
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From: Foothills of NC
I would check the fuel pump. Put a stethoscope or screwdriver on it. Or, take it off and run the engine until it ran out of gas. That will be enought time to tell if that is your noise. That's an odd sound.
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so I went ahead and just put a new pump on and then removed it while it was still running.. still makes that noise.. using my stethoscope I can't really pinpoint anything.. i put it against the timing cover and the fuel pump and the oil pan but I believe it just gets louder there because they magnifying the noise. I then pulled the rod cover and it looks fine and then I ran it for like two seconds and everything is getting oil and nothing looks toasted.
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More Turbo
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From: Shelburne, NH
Have you had a chance to take the scope to the bottom end? and is it possible there is a dent in your oil pan? I had an inline 6 Chevy 261 with a dent in the pan and the bottom end of a rod was hitting the dent enough that it created a knocking sound. Not familiar enough with the 240 clearances - but maybe its back to your original hypothesis - and a scope on the bottom end may help isolate the sound.
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Have you had a chance to take the scope to the bottom end? and is it possible there is a dent in your oil pan? I had an inline 6 Chevy 261 with a dent in the pan and the bottom end of a rod was hitting the dent enough that it created a knocking sound. Not familiar enough with the 240 clearances - but maybe its back to your original hypothesis - and a scope on the bottom end may help isolate the sound.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Weaverville NC
Hi Robsaprano, I had someone to scrap my front bumper. The radiator was dented. I did not know until a few miles after this event. The temp guage was in the hot zone at this point. I shut it down. Had the truck towed home. I took off the head. #1 & #2 cylinders were scored. I jacked up the motor, put a small 2x4 under each motor mount. Removed the pistons. Rented a cylinder hone. Put a rag over each crank journal. Honed the two cylinders out just enough to remove the slight score markings. Put the pistons back in, torqued the caps down. Replaced pan gskt. & head gskt. torqued them down. Ran fine afterwards.
I'm saying all that because, if pulling the engine is too much trouble...looking for a bad brg. is possible without removing the motor.
I want to say that my 240 is one strong motor. I have put on a pair of cast iron headers. Then one plain jane muffler for each exh. mnfld. Right after the mufflers, I have a short run that points out in front of the pass rear tire. The difference in power is very satisfying. Drive/maintain a '65 F100 2WD.
All the best, Pete
I'm saying all that because, if pulling the engine is too much trouble...looking for a bad brg. is possible without removing the motor.
I want to say that my 240 is one strong motor. I have put on a pair of cast iron headers. Then one plain jane muffler for each exh. mnfld. Right after the mufflers, I have a short run that points out in front of the pass rear tire. The difference in power is very satisfying. Drive/maintain a '65 F100 2WD.
All the best, Pete
Mountain Pass
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The only benign thing I can think of is a very small exhaust leak at the header making a sharp noise. Heck a rod bearing or wrist pin or something causing a slapping piston is probably most likely. Usually those noises are worse with a cold motor until things expand from heat. Anyways sounds like you are up for the job.
I like how you have the metal stock lines for fuel and it looks like for the Dis advance. Someone years ago talked me into putting rubber hoses on those fittings and know I am going back for the pure stock look one fine day.
I like how you have the metal stock lines for fuel and it looks like for the Dis advance. Someone years ago talked me into putting rubber hoses on those fittings and know I am going back for the pure stock look one fine day.
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So I got preoccupied with the brakes, started with shoes then hoses and now all the lines. But I borescoped the motor found a vertical score mark on #6. Removed the head and most of the cylinders have a convex shape to them. #1 had a few horizontal ridges and then #6 with it's mark. Then I removed the timing cover and I tell you those gears look beautiful. So now I am going to put the oil pan and see how she looks. And while tinkering with the brake lines I took a good look over the pan and saw no damage.
Last edited by Robsaprano; May 8, 2021 at 06:11 PM.
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