Pulling engine 7.3 170,000 miles
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Pulling engine 7.3 170,000 miles
This has probably been asked but I couldn’t find it in the posts. I have been slowly getting my truck taken apart so I can pull the engine to change the oil pan gasket among other things. Since the engine will be out could someone give me a list of things that i should probably just take care of at that time before putting back in the truck? For example should i go ahead and change the rear main seal etc. etc. etc. even though it may not be needed. Truck has about 170,000 on it and has not run for about 5 years. Currently my plan is to replace both fuel tanks, change over to electronic fuel system, pull the injectors, replace the injector cups and reseal injectors, replace the glow plugs. Not that I want to just throw new parts at it but I also dont want to pull the engine again in another 50,000 miles for something i could have done now. Any help or suggestions is much appreciated. Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 6,807
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
A rear main is a good idea since the engine will be out. Maybe a low pressure oil pump on the front.
Injectors are normally recommended to be rebuilt/replaced after 200k.
Might be worth throwing some bellowed up pipes on. Much easier when the engines out.
Injectors are normally recommended to be rebuilt/replaced after 200k.
Might be worth throwing some bellowed up pipes on. Much easier when the engines out.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,539
Likes: 2,030
From: North Texas
Yes. They are beat and almost always need a valve job. Plus ideal time for Comp 910s.
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The reason it hasn’t run is because it lost power. Wouldn’t go over 30mph with the pedal floored. My investigation showed a fuel leak in the valley as well as multiple oil leaks around the turbo pedestal. The turbo actually looks pretty good (not dusted as far as i can tell) but i believe there were issues with the UVC harness also. The oil pan gasket was leaking also. Bottom line is I decided to yank it and rebuild what i could while it’s out. I have about $3,000-4,000 i can put into this rebuild. That’s why i am asking what else i should look at. Not really looking for a street racer pickup, just a reliable one with maybe a tuner for extra HP when hauling. So any other suggestions you have are great. Thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,539
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From: North Texas
These have very soft valve springs stock, for $80 it is a no brainer to do them. Even if you did not shim to correct height, still worth the upgrade. I am thinking part of why these have beat valves and seats is due to the weak springs.
Consider basic mods and some fresh injectors. Do that Melling LPOP too.
Agree with bellowed uppiipes.
Consider basic mods and some fresh injectors. Do that Melling LPOP too.
Agree with bellowed uppiipes.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 949
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From: Fowler Colorado
These have very soft valve springs stock, for $80 it is a no brainer to do them. Even if you did not shim to correct height, still worth the upgrade. I am thinking part of why these have beat valves and seats is due to the weak springs.
Consider basic mods and some fresh injectors. Do that Melling LPOP too.
Agree with bellowed uppiipes.
Consider basic mods and some fresh injectors. Do that Melling LPOP too.
Agree with bellowed uppiipes.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Pelham NH
Add,
Front cover removal and reseal.
New updated fuel banjo bolts from Rifraf.
Pick up a engine oring, gasket set,,, it will give you everything you need to seal everything.
Definitely do the heads,,,, that is a must if it's out,,, kind of a no brainer. I was in the fence but happy I did. They will magna flux them and make sure no cracks or weak spots. Probably run you 1k for everything.
Front cover removal and reseal.
New updated fuel banjo bolts from Rifraf.
Pick up a engine oring, gasket set,,, it will give you everything you need to seal everything.
Definitely do the heads,,,, that is a must if it's out,,, kind of a no brainer. I was in the fence but happy I did. They will magna flux them and make sure no cracks or weak spots. Probably run you 1k for everything.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
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Add,
Front cover removal and reseal.
New updated fuel banjo bolts from Rifraf.
Pick up a engine oring, gasket set,,, it will give you everything you need to seal everything.
Definitely do the heads,,,, that is a must if it's out,,, kind of a no brainer. I was in the fence but happy I did. They will magna flux them and make sure no cracks or weak spots. Probably run you 1k for everything.
Front cover removal and reseal.
New updated fuel banjo bolts from Rifraf.
Pick up a engine oring, gasket set,,, it will give you everything you need to seal everything.
Definitely do the heads,,,, that is a must if it's out,,, kind of a no brainer. I was in the fence but happy I did. They will magna flux them and make sure no cracks or weak spots. Probably run you 1k for everything.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 199
Likes: 2
From: Pelham NH
Would not go that far with 170k on it. Mine had 208k and heads and cylinder walls where I great shape. I would say get the heads off and take a look. Also when you pull your oil pan you can take a look at the inners.
My truck is always pulling a trailer with equipment or hauling something so I change the oil every 2k with Rotella and a quart of Lucas. Burns no oil between intervals
My truck is always pulling a trailer with equipment or hauling something so I change the oil every 2k with Rotella and a quart of Lucas. Burns no oil between intervals
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 11,271
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From: Las Cruces New Mexico
IMO if I were you reseal the entire thing not just here and there, that rebuild kit almost comes with all seals needed for a complete reseal. Get rid of the stock leak prone fuel bowl and go with two options
1. Go with custom E-fuel kit
2. Buy a used front timing cover, fuel bowl, fuel lines for a 99-03 7.3 add the electric fuel pump an you will have a reliable fuel system that you can easily buy parts for if ever needed.
I chose option 2 as I had all the stuff needed for it and have been happy with it for the last 4 years
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That's the kit I used to rebuild my engine and it was an OEM part# kit.
IMO if I were you reseal the entire thing not just here and there, that rebuild kit almost comes with all seals needed for a complete reseal. Get rid of the stock leak prone fuel bowl and go with two options
1. Go with custom E-fuel kit
2. Buy a used front timing cover, fuel bowl, fuel lines for a 99-03 7.3 add the electric fuel pump an you will have a reliable fuel system that you can easily buy parts for if ever needed.
I chose option 2 as I had all the stuff needed for it and have been happy with it for the last 4 years
IMO if I were you reseal the entire thing not just here and there, that rebuild kit almost comes with all seals needed for a complete reseal. Get rid of the stock leak prone fuel bowl and go with two options
1. Go with custom E-fuel kit
2. Buy a used front timing cover, fuel bowl, fuel lines for a 99-03 7.3 add the electric fuel pump an you will have a reliable fuel system that you can easily buy parts for if ever needed.
I chose option 2 as I had all the stuff needed for it and have been happy with it for the last 4 years
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 10,590
Likes: 382
From: Texas
That's the kit I used to rebuild my engine and it was an OEM part# kit.
IMO if I were you reseal the entire thing not just here and there, that rebuild kit almost comes with all seals needed for a complete reseal. Get rid of the stock leak prone fuel bowl and go with two options
1. Go with custom E-fuel kit
2. Buy a used front timing cover, fuel bowl, fuel lines for a 99-03 7.3 add the electric fuel pump an you will have a reliable fuel system that you can easily buy parts for if ever needed.
I chose option 2 as I had all the stuff needed for it and have been happy with it for the last 4 years
IMO if I were you reseal the entire thing not just here and there, that rebuild kit almost comes with all seals needed for a complete reseal. Get rid of the stock leak prone fuel bowl and go with two options
1. Go with custom E-fuel kit
2. Buy a used front timing cover, fuel bowl, fuel lines for a 99-03 7.3 add the electric fuel pump an you will have a reliable fuel system that you can easily buy parts for if ever needed.
I chose option 2 as I had all the stuff needed for it and have been happy with it for the last 4 years
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Senior User
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Not true at all. This is a part that rarely fails, especially with this mileage. OP, I would leave it alone. It's eay enough to get to if it does fail anytime in the future. Unless you are having a leak from the front crank area, there is no reason to replace it.
This is a great option. The Superduty fuel and fuel filtration system is pretty darn good from the factory. And yes, like Adam said, reseal the entire thing....every O-Ring and gasket. I highly, highly doubt you lost power because the engine is worn and tired. Unless some thing catastrophically failed, something else was amiss. I'd rather have a good used and broken in engine than a rebuild I may be unsure about. "Well oiled machine" applied here in spades.
This is a great option. The Superduty fuel and fuel filtration system is pretty darn good from the factory. And yes, like Adam said, reseal the entire thing....every O-Ring and gasket. I highly, highly doubt you lost power because the engine is worn and tired. Unless some thing catastrophically failed, something else was amiss. I'd rather have a good used and broken in engine than a rebuild I may be unsure about. "Well oiled machine" applied here in spades.
- pull engine, get heads off and take a look everything (if it looks good)
- reseal everything (CP addict has a Mahle reseal kit for $262.) Thoughts/suggestions??
- new injector cups
- clean and reseal injectors
- new glow plugs
- new LPOP
- new gas tanks (mine are rusted)
- Go with the superduty e-fuel system mentioned
At that point the engine should be good. However the work wont be done. I also plan to pull the bed and clean all the rust off the frame and repaint it. Same thing in the engine bay. I dont have a way to pull the cab. New brake lines and brake pads.
At the moment I also have the Radiator support out due to rust