Issues with a ZF-5 swap from a T-19?
#1
Issues with a ZF-5 swap from a T-19?
Howdy all.
I have an 86 F-250HD, 460 4 speed 4 wheel drive, extended cab long bed. I was replacing an oil pan gasket which meant pulling the engine, and I figured (in one of my more brilliant moments) that while I had the engine out I'd do a 5 speed swap because overdrive can be useful in a daily/work truck. Everything was going great until, for reasons beyond my Neanderthal brain, we couldn't get it to go on and mate the bellhousing surface to the block. It was pretty well lined up, at least to the best of my ability with a rented transmission jack and some ratchet straps, and after a few attempts like that I tried to pull it onto the block with some bolts and nuts. I'm sure you can guess that went poorly.
So I'm here to ask: has anyone else had this trouble with this swap? From everything I can find online this shouldn't be a problem. I changed the clutch and flywheel to fit with the new trans, and I slid the clutch on with the trans on the floor - it fit, but tight. I've found nobody who needed a spacer or anything. This is admittedly my first foray into "improving" rather than "repairing" so I'm not super certain of myself. I'm going to test fit it with no clutch assembly, so if it is just me being stupid about putting the trans on the clutch it should fit fine tomorrow - but if not, what would it be? Mostly I'm just trying to ramble my way into proving I'm dumb not crazy. Am I just being stupid?
Thanks in advance.
-Chris
I have an 86 F-250HD, 460 4 speed 4 wheel drive, extended cab long bed. I was replacing an oil pan gasket which meant pulling the engine, and I figured (in one of my more brilliant moments) that while I had the engine out I'd do a 5 speed swap because overdrive can be useful in a daily/work truck. Everything was going great until, for reasons beyond my Neanderthal brain, we couldn't get it to go on and mate the bellhousing surface to the block. It was pretty well lined up, at least to the best of my ability with a rented transmission jack and some ratchet straps, and after a few attempts like that I tried to pull it onto the block with some bolts and nuts. I'm sure you can guess that went poorly.
So I'm here to ask: has anyone else had this trouble with this swap? From everything I can find online this shouldn't be a problem. I changed the clutch and flywheel to fit with the new trans, and I slid the clutch on with the trans on the floor - it fit, but tight. I've found nobody who needed a spacer or anything. This is admittedly my first foray into "improving" rather than "repairing" so I'm not super certain of myself. I'm going to test fit it with no clutch assembly, so if it is just me being stupid about putting the trans on the clutch it should fit fine tomorrow - but if not, what would it be? Mostly I'm just trying to ramble my way into proving I'm dumb not crazy. Am I just being stupid?
Thanks in advance.
-Chris
#2
I will state just in case: it can be tricky to line up the transmission splines with the clutch and get it seated fully in the pilot hole. I would consider trying to slightly rotate the shaft when you try to seat it. If you are say an inch shy of it all going together that may be the issue. Or you already know and tried this in which case maybe someone who has done this specific swap can help more
#3
#4
-The zf that your installing MUST come from behind a 460.
-You said you got everything to fit a zf. I am assuming that is the flywheel and disc and clutch. These all need assembly onto the back of the engine BEFORE you try to install the transmission. When you assemble these components, you must bolt the pressure plate on with an alignment tool inserted into the assembly.
And like was mentioned, the trans has to be pushed in and wiggled till it's straight on before it will go. I find most of the time I need to let the back of the engine down so it tilts back on the motor mounts, and then stab the trans in at a upward angle to match the engine and to clear the floorboards. Once the trans is in place, then use a jack to raise everything up. This means the rear crossmember can't be there, it must be unbolted. And usually the exhaust must be unbolted to let the engine tilt back. When you let the engine tilt back, you might need to loosen the fan shroud so it doesn't get broken by the fan.
Most of these trucks have a large cover in the middle of the floor that can be unbolted. If you do not mind pulling the seat out, and then pulling the carpet back, this can be taken off and you can use a engine hoist and support the trans from above. You can also get to the upper bellhousing bolts, you will be staring right at them with the cover removed. Which reminds me, you need the cover from the zf truck. It has a higher hump in the cover to clear the zf trans. I have never tried it, but the zf may rub on the 4 speed floor plate/cover
#5
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1bigfordfan
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
02-04-2015 06:29 AM
greg4269ub
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
9
11-03-2012 09:12 PM
FESuperDuty
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
02-27-2009 10:03 PM
bsakal
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
1
09-21-2005 09:50 AM