I'm new to the whole DIY mechanic and I have a 1987 ford f150 project truck I have been working on. Been wanting to change out the alternator for a while now. It seems that I couldn't find one that I could use the old connector too and instead got three wires with these connectors on them. I guess I gotta cut the old connector off and stick them together then? And then heat up the heat shield things over them? Also another problem I had was the wires running up from the alternator to the solinoid became brittle and cracked. Is there a replacement like "harness" i can buy for this? answers are most appreciated. I can get more pictures if needed thanks



This is where I guess I would have to splice?

and this is where it broke off

 

You'll have to find the wiring diagram and hook up the correct wires from the alternator regulator to the harness on your vehicle side.

For the solenoid wire, I would just buy a crimp connector and reconnect the two sides where it broke. That's odd the wires got so brittle that they just broke away...Copper shouldn't do that unless heated a lot. Was there a hill billy solder job at that joint or something?

 

You probably got the wrong alternator. When I replaced mine for my 460 it was a little confusing to find the right one. Just type the ford part number in google from the original alternator and find a remanufactured one and return this one. Gotta look at the connections when your browsing it can be a different amperage level preferably higher. Would be a lot easier on you than a bunch of custom wiring. Unless since you've already broken into it you want to keep going. Just will have to find a wiring diagram and buy connectors.

 

Well, it's nice to have just a bolt-n-go kind of thing, but one of the reasons most of us DIY'er types get rid of your generation alternator in the first place, is the problem you're having!
The 2G was notorious for baking the charge wires. It was not one of Ford's better ideas in fact, using 2 smaller gauge wires instead of one wire of sufficient size and a connector that was more weatherproof. As zedsdead said, your wires look like they went through a little bit of overheating and the meltdown that followed was a common reason for a lot of Fords to have been sold off to someone else that was going to fix it. My first experience with it was on a Mustang, then the second time was a Bronco. Heard many of the horror stories though, and a lot of people have just upgrade to the newer 3G style and slept better at night.

Did your alternator not even have the location for the connector in your pic? Or did it come with a new one for you to splice wires to instead? As far as I know, for the last 20 years or so all 2G replacements came with a new partial harness, including a better, tighter fitting connector with more corrosion resistant contact materials, with about 6" of new charge wire pairs with super heavy duty crimp connectors already in place. Is that what you got?
The hope was that updating the connector would remove, or at least lessen the possibility of another meltdown.

But either way, whether you use your new alternator or not, you should replace the entire charge harness from the main connector on the side of the alternator, all the way to the starter relay. It's actually much easier to do with a 3G, having only one wire to use that's the size of a battery cable. Ford went to a single 6ga charge wire on most, with a larger 4ga wire on heavier applications or those having longer runs of wire. More than enough to be safe with the 95 to 130 amp ratings of the 3G alternators.
Which should bolt right in place of the old 2G if I'm not mistaken. Though that might depend on the engine and year model.

But no matter what, as said make, or buy a new alternator harness. Your old one is no longer serviceable.

Paul

 

Of course, judging by your second pic showing the starter relay, you may have had another issue. Or if not, were going to eventually.
The charge wire connector should never have been oriented so that it was touching the other terminal like that. At some point it was going to wear through and touch short to the other post. It may not have resulted in an immediate meltdown, but it would have caused the starter to spin constantly and overwork several components in the process.

Is it the angle of the camera, or is that backwards from what I remember? Seems like the battery side is usually on the left and the starter on the right. I guess it really does not matter, as the switch is just open or closed with no polarity that I'm aware of. But it does seem bass ackwards from here.

Anyway, never tighten down wire connectors in such a way that they're touching/rubbing on other components. Just a good rule-of-thumb to follow.

Paul

 

Hey thanks for the feed back guys. And yeah there was a lot of wierd wiring that came with this truck when I bought it. They added a visor and front lower lights to it as well. So it was somewhat hard to figure out what the hell was going on in the first place. I will look into this 3g alternator, thanks again.

 

do you think you can direct me to everything I would need for this 3g alternator, wires, and w/e else I need? That would be a great help

 

Actually found a re manufactured one that has both plugs and is identical in clock positions so ima try that first! Was a good idea to look for this instead...

 

Yeah clock positions is the thing you have to just look at pictures for.

 

yeah the clock position didn't line up the first time but this one I just perfectly fits. I'm glad I know this now! thanks!

 

no problem