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Brakes seem to be the talk of the town right now but I figured I'd start my own, quick thread rather than dirty up someone else's. Long story short. Blew brake line, pedal went to floor, now acts like bad master cylinder. I seem to recall that brake pedal to floor ruing the master cylinder somehow, do I recall correctly?
Probably have air in the ABS system if your truck is equipped with 4 wheel ABS.
It does, air in ABS would cause the pedal to fade like a failed master cylinder? I feel relieved and will check that in the morning. BTW, the reservoir didn't empty.
It does, air in ABS would cause the pedal to fade like a failed master cylinder? I feel relieved and will check that in the morning. BTW, the reservoir didn't empty.
Yes, my gas powered X did this but my reservoir did empty out. I tried every DIY method of bleeding without success, so took it to a shop after reading about having the program to bleed out the ABS system, brakes worked great afterwards.
When I was having abs problems the pedal would
sink to the floor but you could feel the abs pump working in the pedal as well. With forescan you can bleed the abs module very quickly. Then your supposed to bleed the 4 calipers as usual to complete the procedure.
Alright, now I'm stumped. I replaced a broken line this AM, bled the brakes, bled the ABS, bled the brakes again and I'm not getting any brakes. When bleeding the brakes, the pedal works fine and I can feel it pushing the fluid through, fluid comes out air free from all four corners. When I close the bleeders though, the pedal goes to the floor and it's not spongy. It's nothing I've encountered before, it just goes to the floor. It acts the same when running as not. What might it be?
Are you getting them to pump up then cracking the bleeder, or doing the solo vacuum pump method? I've only ever seen it matter once but, starting at right rear, then left rear, next right front, and left front last?
When the line blew and the pedal went to the floor the master cylinder could be damaged. Like when pumping brakes to bleed the lines you do no want to go beyond the typical stroke of the pedal travel. Beyond that range the o rings will be dragging over areas of the cylinder that can be rusty, maybe super rusty. I can imagine the full stroke when the line blew could really compromise an o ring. Maybe the o ring was still solid enough push bubbles when bleeding, but too damaged to hold against any pressure.
So yeah, I'm thinking master cylinder just like you.
And, as usual, the problem deepens itself. I already replaced the rear calipers because they were freezing up and now I have to replace the front ones because the bleeders are frozen. Calipers and master cylinder order placed online to my friendly neighborhood NAPA jobber, just waiting on my email to go get it.
Mark, you probably know this already, but you can get new bleeders at a parts store. I bought some new bleeders for my front calipers several years ago and they worked quite well. You could get "speed bleeders" if that is your sort of thing and you think the calipers will last a while.
Too bad your not closer, I would run over the Motive PowerBleeder that I bought on Leonard's recommendation that is now one of my new favorite tools.
Mark, you probably know this already, but you can get new bleeders at a parts store. I bought some new bleeders for my front calipers several years ago and they worked quite well. You could get "speed bleeders" if that is your sort of thing and you think the calipers will last a while.
Too bad your not closer, I would run over the Motive PowerBleeder that I bought on Leonard's recommendation that is now one of my new favorite tools.
Thanks, I looked at those things and the ones I look at were pricey. I wasn't aware of new bleeders being on the market but I expect the old ones to break off so I'm just getting rebuilt calipers. They're getting old and ya have to decide whether to just replace them now or next year. I disassembled the master cylinder (pics attached) and they are a very simple device. The two plungers are held in with one snap ring and it's easy to get apart and back together. I don't see any damage to any of the rubber pieces so I'm not optimistic that a new (rebuilt) MC will solve the problem but it's getting one. I'm wondering what the chances are that I didn't pump enough fluid through and there is still air up in the lines. When I ran the ABS bleed function, the pedal hardened up and pushed back so I thought I had it licked at that point.
Can you replace those o rings? Not sure what material is best for brake fluid.
They're not O rings. I don't know what they are called but I'd call them more like plungers or cups. If one had them, they could easily be replaced and the bore of the MC is in fine shape. If a kit got out it would kill the rebuild market but then some might have issues with liability. At this point I would say that pushing the pedal to the floor could not compromise the O rings, plungers or whatever they are called. I see no chance for corrosion of any sort in that galley unless it sat for decades and moisture got in there somehow.
On those power bleeders...do they mount to the MC and provide pressure or do they attach to the caliper and provide suction?
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