We will be getting our Outdoors RV 260RLS Titanium in June. Even though I have the 350 and bags I wanted the security of a WDH. With the crazy wind out here in CO and the curvy mountain roads its peace of mind for us. I called Equalizer today and their 3" shank is not supposed to be released anytime soon. They are so far behind on regular products after a metal shortage. My question is what other 3" shank products would be compatible with the Equalizer 12, 14, and 16K WDH? I believe these are called trunion style? Yes I have the reducers but I'm not a fan of them. Sure it will cost me some $ but what is out there.

 

Since you already have a reducer just weld it to the shank. Use a hitch clamp and you'll have zero play.

 

I think I have found a solution. RV Gross weight is 11K. -An Equalizer 14K no shank hitch add Bulletproof Hitches 3"shank with 6"rise/drop includes 2" and 2-5/16" ***** and a Bulletproof Hitches WDH Sway adapter. This combo eliminates the adapter sleeves for everything but the bike rack which has no real weight. Im sure many of you tow just fine with the reducers. To me getting rid of the reducer sleeves while towing is a big peace of mind thing.

EQUALIZER NO SHANK HITCHES - Equalizer No Shank 14K hitch

BULLETPROOF HITCHES 3" SHANK 6"DROP RISE WITH 2" AND 2-5/16" ***** - Bulletproof Hitches 3" shank 6" drop/rise with 2-5/16 and 2" *****

BULLETPROOF HITCHES WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION SWAY ADAPTER - Bulletproof Hitches WDH Sway adapter

 

If you're going to spend that much, maybe consider the 3" Andersen WDH.

 

Not sure why everyone is worried about using the adapter sleeves. I currently run one with my 2.5" hitch down to 3" and have NO issues whatsoever. It has been in there since I bought the truck, and I have no wear on the hitch pin that also came with it. For any travel trailer on the market, there's really no need to get a 3" drawbar. Now, if you're planning on pulling a heavy equipment trailer, that's a completely different story.

 

Weld it as mentioned when you get around to it. No reason to waste your time or money if it works.

I agree with above post, no need for a 3 inch unless you really just want it.

 

I had no problems with my pin. It was the pin hole that was getting wallowed out. That and the adapter was a bit noisy and sloppy in both the horizontal and vertical directions All those problems were solved with the 3" shank. I needed a new hitch anyhow. The prior owner of my trailer had a 10K hitch for an 11K trailer.

 

I have the 3'' bullet proof hitch and the WD head as you listed. I absolutely love it. It does push the trailer back a few inches off the bumper but it actually gave me enough room to drop the tailgate without hitting the jack. The hitch itself is a chunk of steel. Very heavy duty and very well built. I leave it in the truck all the time and when i need/want the camper, i pull the 2 pins holding the regular ***** and pin in the WD head. Very easy to change out and I leave the trailer head in the camper so its always there. I ordered the 8'' drop (2019 F-350 Fx4 with the camper package) and would say that the 6" drop is most likely all that's needed. I hate the reducers and after a 500 mile trip using them the factory pin was bent and thats when I said no more. If you have any questions I would be happy to answer what i know about it.

 

I got the 2.5" and use a reducer. It really has been a non-issue for me. A few years ago when I asked equalizer about a 3" shank they told me they weren't going to make one. Sounds like that has changed.

 

Sure the 3" shank is EXTREME OVERKILL for my application but not having to worry about or fiddle with reducers is worth it

levimorris85 - glad to see that combo is working out. Once the RV gets built we can dial in the coupler height. Outdoors RVs couplers sit high on the 16" tires 27-29" so I will probably need the 6" rise at least. The inside lower edge of the receiver is 18 5/8

HRTKD - Like you I have to order the hitch for the RV so I figured I might as well skip the reducer and get the proper shank.

 

Wish I had thought of simply welding the adapter(s) on the shank back when the F350 required two to get from 3" to 2" for the Propride hitch. The slop bugged me from the standpoint of wear, but also wondered about how much weight distribution was negated by first taking up the slack in the hitch system. Now with the F250 I am going from 2.5 to 2, and am reusing the scrap aluminum shims I made to tighten up the F350 rig. I note that someone finally makes a 3-2 welded adapter now.

 

this is my setup as well, except for the 10k equalizer.

 

Same set up, really nice while hooked up to be able to lower the tailgate all the way. Damn the bullet proof is heaving though with an 8" drop.

 

ORV's are normally 31 to 32 inches. I had to go from 6 inch drop rise to 8 inch on my Andersen when we bought the ORV.

 

I called ORV and they said 29" I'm wondering it that is to the bottom of the ball? I might see if I can find one local to go measure. I am thinking I might need the 8 as well