One of the benefits of a WDH is that some of the tongue weight on the rear axle gets moved from there to the trailer's axles and the front axle of the truck. But the more important (in my opinion) feature is that by putting weight back on the front axle the handling is greatly improved.

Even though my typical tongue weight is 940 lbs, well below the capacity of my receiver hitch, the handling is not fun when the WDH is not properly configured. It took a couple outings for me to figure where I needed my hitch to be set to for pleasant handling.

 

When installing/adjusting a WDH you measure wheel well height at the front while unloaded & then loaded WITHOUT the WDH bars installed.
The goal is to at least split the difference in height after the bars are installed...this should re-apply at least 1/2 the weight that was removed from the front axle if done properly.

This link to an install instruction might explain better:
https://www.equalizerhitch.com/manua...ribution-setup

 

Thanks. I will check that out.

 

There has been some speculation that the front springs on the Superduty are so stiff that the wheel well height procedure isn't accurate enough. When trying to quantify the effect of the force the WDH puts on the truck's axles, the CAT Scale is thought to be the most effective measurement. Not everyone has a CAT Scale nearby, so the wheel well height procedure is worth trying.

When I tried the wheel well procedure, I wasn't getting any change. While I've had my truck/trailer at the CAT Scale, what really helped me dial it in was driving and tweaking the configuration until the handling was good.

A word of caution: It is possible to over configure a WDH and remove too much weight from the truck's rear axle. You have to work pretty hard to do it though. If you can spin the tires easily (going straight, not turning right/left) the WDH may be over configured. This is especially dangerous when towing in poor traction situations.

 

Good post.

My rig has been described as a butterfly on an elephants ***.
So I will need to do some shake down before I add WDH or any truck mods.

 

LOL! My toy hauler outweighs my F-350, so I have to work a little harder to get what I call "pleasant handling". Just for giggles, I tried towing with just a plain ball, no WDH or sway control. I never got over 55 MPH and with a slight breeze I could tell it was not going to work. Mine being a toy hauler, it's taller than most travel trailers and it catches every breeze.

 

I ordered the camper package that includes rear auxiliary springs, rear anti sway bar, and heavy service front springs.
It will be interesting to see how the truck reacts to the camper.

 

I called Equal-i-zer today with the exact same question. Sounds like the 3" shank may be available sometime this year. In our case, the timing is OK; we're hoping to get into an Outdoors RV 26KVS in Q1 of 2022.

 

I pulled my buddy's new 3500lb 16' Wolf Pup camper with my 21 F350 CCLB 6.7 with just a ball hitch (no sway or WDH). Obviously my truck is more than enough, however I could feel it bucking quite a bit over bumps. I think a WDH, even with minimal tension, would serve to damping some of that bucking experience over bumps.

My takeaway is that a WDH will still pull more comfortably than a straight ball hitch (even with sway control), even if you don't NEED the weight distribution...

 

Currently I have an equalizer hitch and 1000 bars for my Jayco Jayfeather 25BH that came with the trailer. Don't mind the hitch and WD setup but hate the reducer. Recently, my wife bought me the bulletproof for my birthday (2.5 inch shank for my F350) and I love it. It is so easy to switch out the ***** for my other trailers without having to change the hitch all the time. It just makes sense for me to move the camper WD setup to the bulletproof platform.

What Ball and Bar setup are you using with the Bulletproof hitch?

Thx