Hello again,
I want to thank you guys for helping me with my power seat problem, everything is back together and working fine for now until I rewire them properly to the fuse block.

My next adventure is working on the power windows...Now I know the motors are working I can here them, so I believe I'll be needing hardware that may have broken or worn out,I'll find out today when I open the door panels up, So I would like to know in advance if there are any good places to buy parts from like the window gears or clips.

Project # 2 will be the AC unit, it works but is low on R-12, I assume it's R-12 because it's a 1990.
Do I find a shop that sells it?
Can I use Synthetic R-12?
Do I have to evacuate the system and vacuum then replace with the 134a?

What have you guys done with your AC system?

Thanks for any Info you can give.

 

Does anyone even know if these Vans came from the factory with power windows or is all power features add-ons from aftermarket fabricators? I'm asking because the motors inside the doors are riveted in, not bolted, which means I'm going to have to drill them out, which also means that the OEM stock Manual crank handle hardware is more than likely been removed, which means I'm gonna be kind of boned if I do remove the motors.

 

I found a pretty good video on youtube for repair and replacement I thought I would share with you guys, just in case you're interested.

 

Perhaps since the early or middle 1980's the E-Series had factory option power windows and door locks too. The factory used rivets because they're easier to install on an assembly line.

 

It looks like you solved the issue with the window motors. That is a great video. I repaired the motors on a 90 Town Car I used to own and it is about the same as the van.

As to your project 2, the AC. If I had to do it all over again, I probably would have gone with R134a for several reasons. 1. R12 is very expensive when you find it on EBAY. 2. If you need a shop to do any work on your system, it will cost a lot more. If you know someone with a shop that will work with you then it might be different. I ask a shop how much to evacuate my system and recharge it after I was finished doing some work on the system and he told me $50 a lb to charge it back! 3. R12 is just going to continuously get more pricey. I replaced the entire AC system on my van with new parts and so it was very simple starting with a new system as far as how much oil to add how much R12 to add ECT and I have had no problems for 4 years now but eventually I will and Legally I will need to have a shop to vacuum out the R12 to make repairs. I do have 2 spare cans of R12 and over the years you will loose a bit and need to add a little. IF you have a major issue then you have to start over like you need to do now.

What I found on my van that had sat for several years was that the AC compressor was locked up to start with. It was also a rebuilt compressor meaning the PO had already had problems. Contaminants in the old will be your worst enemy. When I first started to work on my AC system i had problems getting the fittings apart. The system had sat for years with no refrigerant and the tubes had oxidation inside them, rust actually on the steel lines. After seeing that i knew there was no way to flush out the system and have it to last. That is when I decided to completely rebuild the AC system with new parts. Once i had ordered all of the parts and cut all of the old lines out because they wouldn't come apart, It only took me a day to install all the new parts and I vacuumed it over night. The next day I had cold ac...

IF you deicde to go with R12 then to legally buy it you need to be EPA 609 certified. The sellers are supposed to require you to show proof but no one I bought from on EBAY ever ask.. I am EPA 609 certified though and if I can pass the short little test after studying a few hours, then I know you can...
https://ww2.epatest.com/
So to recap, if your system has been sitting empty for a long time then you need to really examine the inside of the lines and perhaps drain out oil from the compressor and see if it is black or very dirty looking and then decide what to do from there. If you had gas in the system and everything looks clean then perhaps you could get by with just flushing the system, installing new O-rings, new accumulator, orifice tube, dump the old oil from the compressor, add the proper amount of oil to all the components, vacuum the system and charge it... If it is clean and the compressor is in good shape then you will be good to go...,
Anna

PS JWA the last time I posted a link to Clips and Fasteners you said something about they may not be in business or something? Their link is still up..
https://www.clipsandfasteners.com/ca...how=270&page=1

 

Anna
again thanks for these links
👍

 

Mike,
Great find this video, thanks

 

Thanks for that update Annaleigh----I've not had occasion to use them for a while now---they were always pretty helpful and had great inventory too. I'll have to check them out once again, glad to know they're still up and running.

FWIW they seem to be owned by an outfit called Page Auto Parts who are sellers on eBay.

 

JWA There is another company that is similar and sells more window parts but I cant remember their name. On the window track these older fords use a square nylon piece with a bolt going through the middle of it. The original may be rivited (not sure) but the nylon square slides up and down in the track. some other brands use a round roller.

My windows make noise like they hangs for a second and then drop as they are going down. I am going to try white lithium grease on the tracks.

 

Annaleigh----I've never heard of 609 certification i am RSES Type1 certified to handle refrigerants, I have all the gauges, vacuum pumps and recovery tanks, but im not MAC certified and have never done the automotive AC units. From what I've been reading it may be better if I stay with R12 system I have front and rear AC, the unit works its just low. I'm wondering if Synthetic R12 is compatible, I have a 30lb bottle of it, I kind of inherited from my dad after he passed, he was an HVAC tech.

As for the windows, I ordered the gear sets. I should have them by Thursday. Id kind of like to have this ready to roll by Memorial day. Its a 600 mile trip from Chicago area to Memphis area. Hopefully I'll have mechanically sound.

 

IF your system is working now and has R12, then I would stay with it too. I have no clue about the Synthetic R12. You have front and rear AC so you can keep your van cool., I only have a front AC and it will not cool the van on hot sunny days. It feels really good in the drivers and passenger seat but it will be over 90F in the rear seat!
In my case with just front ac, swapping to R134a wouldn't make much difference. I plan to install 2 roof vents and replace my rear windows with pop out windows.

Good luck on your trip. I am finally starting to do some work on my van towards converting it to a camper. I got the two middle row seats out and will be removing the rear seat couch/bed so I can get the old carpet out. I am going to use the couch/bed from my 85 can as it is very comfortable folded out. Ill put a mattress on top of that.

When I was younger I would have taken any car on a 600 mile trip and never worried about anything... For some reason not days, humm, I don't seem to be as compulsive.

 

I know what you mean about being compulsive, I remember one trip I drove a 68 ford 500 fastback down to Florida on bald tires and had to stop every 300 miles to gas up and pull the valve covers and spray down the rocker arms with wd40 because the oil didn't flow well, made to Ft Myers with only 2 blow outs and traded the car for a motorcycle....lol

As for you're AC maybe putting a couple of helper fans behind your seats would help circulate the air better towards the back?

 

Well after watching the video a few times, it seemed pretty straight forward, but what I found on mine was not the same, My armature and motor cam out as one assembly and after marking where the assembly position was in relation to itself with the big gear, Mine was spring loaded, which I didn't notice until I unbolted the motor and the damn thing snapped over and almost broke my hand. So that's one thing you may need to look out for if you try to do this too.
The other thing is in the link of the video where you can buy the parts or the full assemblies, I chose the parts...There are 3 little round plastic or nylon pieces that I have no idea what they're for or where they go. If anyone has an idea please tell me. These pieces were not in my motor housing. Here's the link.

Oh and I'm still working on getting the assembly back in. I think I may have to take it apart and readjust the amature, is just doesn't seem right.

 

For craps sake some of you folks will go to insane steps trying to repair a part that's already available fully assembled and ready to install. Aftermarket power regulators are available in a lot of outlets for way less than $100 and no close calls to unknowning fingers and hands.

Maybe your time isn't valuable not long-term reliability for for me its one and done---but I use OEM parts too, rarely have to do a job more than once.

 

well I guess the one and done method is good for you, but for some of us, we like to know how things work and don't mind taking some extra time with it. I for one never like being the R&R guy, I like to know exactly how things work. If that cause a few cuts, scratches and finger smashes,, so be it. And on top of that not all people have extra money to spend so they're reduced to buying just the parts they need. Now I could have spent the extra money. Believe it or not each new motor was only $26.00 as opposed to buying the gears which were about $16.00, I decided to take the actual repair route. But thank for you input, maybe someone will use it.