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Here are the details of what happened prior. The truck has been problem free for 8-9 months, but when driving home it stumbled for a split second coming to a stop at a light. I pulled into a gas station and let it idle for a few more seconds and it proceeded to stumble a second again, then returned to regular idle. I shut it off, went inside, when I went to restart the truck I noticed I had no injector clatter, it took two really long attempts before it fired up but proceeded to run like crap the entire way home. Once shut off at home, I tried to restart and it would crank all day but not fire up.
I used torque pro and it only showed a camshaft position sensor code (I assumed from all the cranking). None of my monitored PIDs showed anything crazy and It was getting late so I figured I'd pull the ICP plug in the morning and see if that was the problem (I've done the job like 3 times in the past year or two).
Pulling the ICP in the morning was a no go. Still cranking with no start. No injector clatter.
Torque pro showed (during cranking)
FMP at 47.5-48v
FVP and FLP at 12.5-11
ECT was 64-69.8
EOT was 62.7-63...which seems odd...
IPR was between 27.8-44, though the sweep gauge had saved a 80ish peak at some point
ICP pressure was showing ~800 (with sensor plugged back in)
I threw the batts on the charger for a few hours and dug threw the forums a bit, decided I would load new PIDs into torque pro.
4 hours later, the batts were fully charged. I threw them on the truck and still the same. Pulled codes again and got a crank shaft position code, #5 contribution. Cleared codes and attempted to start again.
Got #7 contribution, and a camshaft code. I cleared codes again, and attempted to start the truck again, got slight injector buzz and it fired right up. I drove up and down the street a few times with no signs of missing or hesitation and got no codes when I finally pulled into the driveway.
I looked at the old PIDS at idle for ***** and giggles:
ECT 188.6
EOT 190.2
IPR 21.3
VOLT 13.9
ICP 641.8
FMP 48
FLP 13.5
FVP 13.5
I said oh well, and decided to head to bed. The next morning still no start, after some research I decided to check over the underhood fuses and order a new ficm relay...then I decided to just get an upgraded one from Ed at FICMrepair.com. The firing reminded me of what the truck was doing when I just bought it and some local shop put a used ficm in and this sounded like a good way to just go ahead and upgrade the questionable ficm I've been running.
While waiting for the new ficm I did more trouble shooting with the new PIDs. Swapped my alternator for a "new" one (both were the 140a variety).
During cranking with no start (all of these numbers are stable for every attempt now)
FMP 47.5
IPR 45.6
ICP 1588.6
ICPV 1.8 (0.3 at KOEO)
FICM sync 1
Cr/Cm sync 1
New FICM and relay showed up and installed. Batts charged/tended overnight. KOEO, no injector clatter. Cranks all day but won't fire. I did my best wiggle and poke, to no avail. A new code did show up, a persistent one. P0670 for the GPCM. So I'm going to test glow plug resistances out after work and double check all my fuses but after that I'm not sure where to go, any ideas would been greatly appreciated!
What are your cranking rpms?
Will your scan tool run an injector buzz test? I do not recall if Torque Pro will do it, but ForScan and ForScan Lite will.
What are your cranking rpms?
Will your scan tool run an injector buzz test? I do not recall if Torque Pro will do it, but ForScan and ForScan Lite will.
The only reading from torque I have saved is ~150 rpm. Not sure at what point during this process it was taken but I do know it was during a crank.
Torque won't do the test as far as i know, I do have an SCTx4 laying around but I'm not sure that can do it either
You need ForScan Lite then. Not sure if that would work now for an Android phone. The full version of ForScan can be downloaded free to a Windows computer.
You need 150(+) rpm to start. Normal cranking would be around 180 IIRC.
You need ForScan Lite then. Not sure if that would work now for an Android phone. The full version of ForScan can be downloaded free to a Windows computer.
You need 150(+) rpm to start. Normal cranking would be around 180 IIRC.
Thanks! I'll scrounge up something and make sure to log rpms during future cranking attempts.
I tend to look at P2617 (and P2614) as a code for excessive cranks. P0341 I pay more attention to. Check the cam shaft sensor electrical connector and wiring. I'll see if I can round up some testing information on the sensor.
Also:
The CMP sensor can chafe at the sensor or at the idler pulley below the thermostat. This can cause a P0341 code.
I was about to say, I did some research and was confused if the cam sensor was behind the ac compressor or the power steering pump. I was removing everything for the drivers side to check the harness so I guess that's where it's at.
Got to poking at it today, cmp sensor has 820 ohm resistance, pin31 to sensor wire is 200 milliohms. Pin43 to sensor wire is 300 milliohms. Fuel pump sounded odd when I tried to get Injector buzz so I tried a bubble test, bowl fills with pretty much foam as soon as the starter wire is touched to the battery terminal. Continuing as many of the cmp tests as I can with the equipment I have.
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