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Air conditioner replacements?

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Old Mar 28, 2021 | 09:38 PM
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Air conditioner replacements?

I recently upgraded our travel trailer with a newer used one. It has 2 A/C units and both are toast according to a repair tech friend. What does everyone recommend installing?

It had Dometic Brisk II 13500 BTU units. Online reviews seem to be all over the place.

If I do go with Dometic, I am thinking of doing the 15000 BTU model. Any opinions? Is there a better option?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 06:03 AM
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Having worked on them, I never found one brand to be better than another. I did find tech support to be much better for Coleman than Dometic. How old are the units you have? Both compressors are bad or they both lost their charge?

Steve
 
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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 08:55 AM
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The Mini Split air conditioners are highly recommended in the DIY solar community. I know close to zero about them or even if they would fit in the same spot.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 09:34 AM
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The trailer was first sold at the end of 2017. It is a 2018 model. The previous owners lived in the trailer 6-8 months out of the year in Arizona. They made me aware of the issues and said they did not perform any preventive maintenance and no vehicle cover. They claimed they got a quote to fix the units for about $1,500. I can buy 2 new units and replace myself for not much more. They were quote "done with RVing" and just wanted rid of it. I think we got a good deal on it.

My friend is a recently retired normal AC repair tech, with admittedly minimal RV experience. He said both motors and compressors are bad. One of the units clearly has multiple parts that have been replaced. Both turn on, but make horrible grinding noises and smell like they are burning.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 10:46 AM
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go to a dedicated RV forum. Those folks are just as good at RV problems as folks here are at Ford issues. Your problem is AC on RV specific
 
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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 10:51 AM
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The only reason I asked is AC units are probably the most reliable and long lived of RV components and it is not unusual to see them cooling for more than a decade. Of course 6-8 months a year of continuous operation is a lot.

So this is just a thought, but why not simply see if you can turn the fan motors to see if they are shot. They should turn freely Normally when a compressor dies, it does not make a grinding noise. If just shorts out and throws a breaker (but there are always exceptions and i am not trying to dis your friend). If the grinding noise is from fan motors, they are not all that expensive, although kind of pain to replace and if it is just the blades hitting the housing on the condenser coil (the one of the back of the AC), it might be something as simple as build up from who knows what. I am not sure how far you want to take this, so if new is what you want go for it. i have just seen so many good units replaced that could have been repaired for a fraction of what one costs new.

Steve
 
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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by NoImMad
go to a dedicated RV forum. Those folks are just as good at RV problems as folks here are at Ford issues. Your problem is AC on RV specific
I get more out of the RV/towing subforums here on FTE than I get on any of the dedicated RV forums.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 04:39 PM
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I have a coleman on mine. works well. If you can go larger do so, it will work more efficiently.

As Steve said, I would pull the cover off, see if it free spins the fan and go from there.

While you are there check for duct problems and see any areas that allow the cold air to be directed in the roof and not in the living area.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 05:07 PM
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I watched a few YouTube videos on troubleshooting. I determined one of the units may have a bad capacitor. I will give it a try first. I think I will find a mobile RV company to check the other regardless.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 05:16 PM
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Having a bad capacitor means something isn't starting, usually the compressor. If you are up on the roof, you can feel and hear it start with the cover off. I would not throw parts at it with diagnosing since it is not very hard to cover the basics. If you are working with capacitors makes sure you have the power off and the capacitor is bled down. The shock is startling if it is sill holding a charge. If you have a meter that test capacitors, you also can check it in place after disconnecting at the capacitor terminals. I think you cheapest avenue would be a mobile tech if one is available and understanding AC systems. If he has a clamp meter and knows how to use it, he can check the amp draw for the whole system without even going on the roof.

Steve
 
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