When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i know there are a lot of e fuel posts out there, i didn’t see any info in any of the threads related to this question so i thought i’d ask - sorry if this had already been answered. This is on a 1994.5 7.3 PSD.
I decided to keep the stock steel threaded FPR lines when doing my e fuel swap, and used 6an-1/8 NPT adapter along with a 90 degree female/male 1/8 NPT elbow to attach the stock lines to my new Aeromotive regulator. I have my electric pump tapped to the 3rd 15amp fuse for key on power. with key on, even without cranking, the stock lines seem to be leaking from the aluminum flare on the JIC fitting(between the two 9/16 adjustments on the aluminum fitting, pic below with location circled).
I don’t know enough about JIC fittings, but my understanding is that there is a flare on the lower half of the fitting and the threaded upper half of the fitting attaches to the thing you want to run fuel to.
my questions are these:
1. would over pressurization cause a back pressure leak at the flare on this fitting?
2. if the threaded part of my 1/8 NPT elbow wasn’t long enough would the JIC not be able to seal between the flare and the female thread?
3, is it possible the flare on the JIC has been damaged? both sides are leaking, so while it’s possible this is the case it seems less likely to me.
4. when the JIC is fully tightened, should there be any play in the section where the flare and the threads mate? i can move it around currently.
From the pic, it looks to me that the "nut" on the hose is bottoming out on the elbow, before the elbow is sealing on the hose. The elbow should fit tightly on the hose below the nut, with thread showing on the elbow above the nut. There should be no play in the hose below the nut.
Be careful with the an/jic fittings. They're very close but if i remember correctly they don't play well together. Something about the thread size/pitch.
The fittings to put everything together are the hardest part about efuel.
totally agree, fittings were such a pain. i tried to keep all the stock components, as a result have a bunch of adapters going from 12 ORB to 3/8 hose barb where the stock pump used to go through the banjo. but, once this issue is resolved, the only change to the factory setup made was removing the stock 5/16 feed line from the selector switch to add the pre filter/pump/post filters in line, so it would be very easy to put back if it was ever necessary.
the fitting on the regulator isn’t going straight from -an to jic in this case, it’s going -6an -> 1/8 NPT male, and then a 1/8 NPT female to 1/8 NPT male 90 elbow. i think the 1/8 NPT is compatible with JIC, before i put the elbow on the connections felt much more solid(just the -6an -> 1/8 NPT) but i couldn’t get the stock braided lines to bend enough to connect on both sides to the regulator.
It looks like you have a form of teflon tape on the JIC connection, they don't use sealer. The flair seals the connection. That nut look to be a swivel type for the joint to go together. The other end that looks to be turned into a nut, is that a pipe thread or straight thread O-ring connection?
Also, is that a brass 90* fitting? If it is it looks like a 45* flair fitting, JIC uses 37* flairs. I would need to see the 90* fitting out of the connection to be sure. If it is a 45* hooked to a 37* it will leak, also if there is teflon tape on the flair it will leak.
good to know about the tape, I will get it off. everything from the hose where there is aluminum up to the brass 90 is what came on the factory hard lines going into the stock regulator, I pulled them off the factory 90 fittings when pulling the factory regulator didnt change the connections on the hose side further. the new brass 90 on the new regulator is a 1/8 NPT female to male, not a flair fitting
Sorry, but again I would have to see the fitting out of the connection. Are you saying that both ends of that 90* are male thread pipe? Can you wiggle the hose attached to the brass fitting when tight?
from the new regulator is a 6an -> 1/8 npt male, the 90* is a 1/8 npt female to male. i just used it to get the angle needed to connect the stock lines, couldnt bend them around to come straight into the sides if that makes sense. the hose on the brass fitting can wiggle, which supports what farmert said above - the nut part of the JIC fitting isnt going up the threads on the brass 90* enough to make the JIC flare seal
Okay, I looked again at your post. The hose connection is where you are getting your leak. There is a hose connection made that connects to a male fitting. Now if you are connecting pipe threads together you can use the teflon tape, as a matter of fact it is recommended, or a sealant for pipe thread. I misunderstood. I thought you were connecting a JIC 37* flair with tape, to a 45* flair. I was wrong. Are you telling me that the brass 90 and the hose came off the stock fuel system, having been connected that way, stock?
its my fault, sorry for the confusion! everything on the hose side of the connection, the black hose and the aluminum JIC up to where you can see the yellow thread tape came off the stock regulator. the brass 90 in the photo is new, not factory
Farmet is correct, if you are connecting a jic flair hose end to a matching jic male connection, it should have a few threads still showing after it is tight, and the hose should not wiggle when tight. That brass fitting, is it from your stock old fuel system? It just looks like a 45* gas fitting. I'm sure you can fix this, you just have to match the correct type of connections. Did this help?
I'm thinking your on the right track, you just need a JIC,90* to male 1/8" pipe. Not to throw you out there, but be careful on the pipe stuff too, sometimes manufacturers use straight thread o/ring fittings that a lot of people confuse with pipe. Are we on the same page now?
