When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
"Press and hold the clutch until all codes are sent." See the word ALL? I guess I should believe you and not the folks that built the reader and wrote the user book. And I really don't give a flip about what your truck does or doesn't do.
Dude you are goofy. You send people on wild goose chases, suggest the most complex potential causes to basic problems, and present your misinformed "understanding" as gospel truth. You are the most annoying poster in this forum, but at least you've gotten away from the copy paste "use a paper clip derrrr to get codes" that comprises about 50% of your total posts.
Dude you are goofy. You send people on wild goose chases, suggest the most complex potential causes to basic problems, and present your misinformed "understanding" as gospel truth. You are the most annoying poster in this forum, but at least you've gotten away from the copy paste "use a paper clip derrrr to get codes" that comprises about 50% of your total posts.
Wow, What a useful addition to a technical post. I'm impressed as heck.
[QUOTE=mark1986F150;19821897]Sandy, you always have the best information.
If you HAD to hold the clutch in, WHY would there be a code for CLUTCH NOT DEPRESSED? What use would that code be? You'd never see it IF YOU HAD TO HOLD THE CLUTCH IN TO GET CODES.
There is no code I am aware of that informs the user that the 4.9 clutch was not depressed when running codes. If there is, WHAT IS IT? Never mind your insults, just give me the code you refer to.
There is no code I am aware of that informs the user that the 4.9 clutch was not depressed when running codes. If there is, WHAT IS IT? Never mind your insults, just give me the code you refer to.
Code 67 (OP literally says this in Post #10)
Code 522, KOEO
Before you ask, code 67 is a 2-digit code, code 522 is a 3-digit code, which one you get depends on the age of your truck, i.e. what ECM you have.
I take issue with you telling OP "you must have the clutch depressed the entire time you're running codes, otherwise you are getting nothing" when OP literally posts codes that were pulled, INCLUDING the code for non-depressed clutch. LITERALLY the proof is in the pudding, right there, that you CAN pull codes with the clutch engaged.
Last edited by mark1986F150; Apr 8, 2021 at 03:53 PM.
Reason: Fix messed up quote
552 (O) AIRB solenoid/circuit failure - Solenoids 67 Park/Neutral circuit fault - PNP
Transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor circuit - Transmissions
(M) Intermittent Park Neutral Position (PNP) sensor fault - PNP
The above codes have nothing to do with depressing the clutch while running codes
The OP said he got a code 67. He also said this " I ran the codes and all I got was code 67 which I read on another thread was due to me not having the clutch in.
Mark, I think you are confused. If you take issue with what I said to him, how do you want to settle it?
And a VERY QUICK GOOGLE SEARCH will show you code 67 is clutch engaged during KOEO.
Finally, OP states that other CM codes were displayed. Reread post #10.
@subford subford , 04-03-2017 11:32 AM
Post Fiend
On standard transmission with the 4.9L engine the clutch has to be held down to break the circuit to pin #30 during the running of the self-test or you will get this code 67
Yeah, and? Once again, it does NOT prevent you from getting other codes. Meaning your statement was wrong.
So you would have sent OP on another wild goose chase, questioning the codes that were displayed, but wrongly asserting that you have to keep clutch in and not get 67 because otherwise "you are getting nothing."
Come on man. You are arguing something that you're clearly wrong on. Now quit polluting this thread with disinformation and self-serving false arguments. All you had to do was not get butthurt about being wrong after my first post.
Yeah, and? Once again, it does NOT prevent you from getting other codes. Meaning your statement was wrong.
So you would have sent OP on another wild goose chase, questioning the codes that were displayed, but wrongly asserting that you have to keep clutch in and not get 67 because otherwise "you are getting nothing."
Come on man. You are arguing something that you're clearly wrong on. Now quit polluting this thread with disinformation and self-serving false arguments. All you had to do was not get butthurt about being wrong after my first post.
I have made a mistake. Never argue with an idiot. They will take you down to their level and beat you with experience.
Come on man and disinformation. How original. You missed calling me a racist.
OP: sorry for blowing up your thread with nonsense. Your interpretation of the TPS and EGR codes is correct - when you unplugged them it stored the code. They should disappear when you disconnect the battery.
I would double triple check the timing. But if you're confident, then it's gotta be good. Keep in mind balancer can slip. May be worthwhile to play with timing to achieve preferred idle, then check to see what it is. You could also do this and compare pre and post *test light* activity on the IAC as.detailed below.
You can test the IAC with a test light. Make sure it is safe for the computer:
Disconnect the IAC and connect the test light across the harness terminals. It should flicker or glow. No glow? Signal is being lost en route to the IAC. Verify voltage by testing across plug to ground. Should see 5V, if not then you don't have voltage to the IAC. If yes, hmmm...
Could be a lost ground signal from the computer. In this case I would play with timing to see if you can make the computer try to open the valve. Another test would be blipping the throttle. When you blip it, the computer goes wide open on the IAC to ensure the engine doesn't stall when the throttle is quickly closed. So blip throttle, watch light and see if it flickers or glows (it should). If not, start looking on the ground side of the connector to computer.
If that checks out and timing is good, the computer thinks it doesn't need IAC open. If MAP reads high, it thinks there is enough air for the engine and won't open the IAC at idle. The computer thinks the engine is lugging at "idle" and enriches the engine (more fuel, wet plugs), which slows it down more. It's not so much worried about O2 reading because (1) it operates off an A/F table, it doesn't have much freedom to real-time adjust A/F from O2 sensor, and (2) emissions controls are pretty much only active in "cruise" i.e. low load / high vacuum / moderate engine speed / at operating temp.
If NOT a timing or IAC signal issue, the MAP is highly suspect. And just a heads up, I have had a MAP sensor fail by filling with water / rain. It was not from the engine, it was from rain getting sucked into the sensor because the halves were slightly separated and it's... a vacuum sensor. It has vacuum on it.
If an old MAP sensor works pretty good, or better than the one that was in it, you're probably on the right track. They do have a diaphragm that gets "tired" and maybe not as responsive. As a gut check, replace the hose to the sensor and verify the vacuum tree is not clogged with crud.