No Prob if you happen to go this route you will notice a big difference.

 

You can join me in the dunce club now. I am a little lonely over here. Most people that get in matthew's dunce club tend to leave and not post anymore. He can't get rid of me though. Nice to have some company.

 

Naw just be smart enough to not argue something that you have no clue about. Don't like being called on stupid don't do stupid...

 

THIS is the problem IMO, just look through the taken-apart cars & trucks in the junkyards. There's a famous tan wire that melts at the headlamp switch connector; never took any pictures, but it's what I would call "a fairly common" occurrence (meaning I see it on ~10% of things I see in the yards). Point being, that is a known, established problem in the field.

I replaced my cab harness(es) with one I extracted from a 1982 (my truck is an 81) in a local yard, cleaned ALL the electrical connectors. That was in ~2007, everything has been working pretty well since then.

I REALLY LIKE @lxer96 's headlights!!!!! That's a lot of light, I like that.


This has been a good thread, lots of opinions coming out....

 

Us Dave's need to stick together

I don't see how wattage DOES NOT equal brightness / light out put
Yes higher wattage does take more current but that's what it takes for more light no?
Take a house lamp bulb, a 60 watt is more light than a 40 watt and takes more current to work / run.
So tell me how is this different in a car or truck as I don't see it?

Not only head lights but you can find other bulbs used on our trucks that are brighter, read higher wattage / use more current, than the bulb the factory installed.
No I don't run them but they are out there if you look.
Dave ----

 

I guess Matt has not done any voltage measuring like I posted to see what the difference is on his truck?
I also like to hear what he dose to maintain his wiring and lighting systems to not get voltage drop?

Also don't think he's been in a car or truck that the light switch has tripped the breaker, it takes as long as it takes to cool off and reset before the lights come back on.
I would have to check but do the new cars & trucks use relays for head lights now, they do for everything else?
Then again someone drank the Ford kool Aid when he worked there
Dave ----

ps if the head light relay kit was a liability I don't think they would sell them or it would come with a warning.

 

Now that is a valid question.

Using power consumption (Watts) to measure light output is ONLY a valid yardstick of light output if the electric-powered light sources being compared are IDENTICAL, meaning the of the same type (design), filament material, filled with same inert gas at the same pressure and volume (if applicable) and have the EXACT same housing/reflector.

By the logic you are applying, a 40-watt incandescent bulb will emit more light (since it uses more watts) than a 10W LED or a 25W CFL. Which it does not, not by a long shot. The 10W LED and 25W CFL both have much higher luminous efficacy than the 40W incandescent and are 100W incandescent equivalents in terms of light output.

So let's look at what you were trying to do. You are trying to compare an incandescent sealed beam that is in a moulded housing designed to achieve a balance between reflectivity and strength to a Halogen lamp that has higher luminous efficacy in a housing that is only designed to optimize reflectivity.

Do you understand the futility and the absolute stupidity and ridiculousness of using power consumption (watts) as a measurement of the potential light output between different types of lighting devices in different styles of housings? It is as ridiculous as using power consumption as the yardstick for comparing light output between an incandescent lamp and an LED or CFL. And CFL's can really mess this up as their luminous efficacy is dependent on ballast design and phosphor coating. Two CFL's of the same wattage may have huge differences in the emitted lumens (brightness).

SO does it take more wattage to make to more or emit more light?.... NO it does not. (This especially true when reflectors are thrown into the mix.)

AND wattage has NO impact on light output UNLESS you are comparing IDENTICAL types/styles of lighting devices.

So trying to use Watts when comparing 2 different types of electrical lighting devices is absolutely futile. This is why we have light measurements like Lumens, Lux, and Candle Power and Foot-Candles to make those comparisons with.

And you had NO clue WTF you were talking about and still tried to argue the point and now you got all butthurt. Well least the Daves got that in common.

And likely you have no idea where the voltage drop occurs, since you did all the measuring do tell where is it... or is this going to be like you with the watts as a light comparison (no clue)
And new vehicles control the headlights through the lighting/body module via the can bus.
And when you grow up you may realize that just cause someone sells it does mean it is a good idea or safe, not as if that has ever happened before. And there is always some future darwin recipient dumb enough to be duped into buying it.



.

 

Yes I was talking same type (design) bulbs, not the LED or CFL to incandescent bulb.

Now to tell the truth I would have thought be it a sealed bulb or a H4 in a housing to be the same light out put for the watts used as they are both incandescent bulbs no?
So till I see some data showing other wise I am on the fence what you are saying of the sealed & H4 bulbs.
Dave ----

 

Oh brother.
Here try reading this again.

" You are trying to compare anincandescent sealed beam that is in a moulded housing designed to achieve a balance between reflectivity and strength to a Halogen lamp that has higher luminous efficacy in a housing that is only designed to optimize reflectivity."

Maybe this can help ya let go of stupid.

(Dated since LED efficiency has improved greatly since this was published)

 

No... Matthew is an Engineer, he just looks at things ENTIRELY differently, that's all. It's kind of a left-brain, right-brain thing, you two are just seeing the same scene but with different interpretations & understandings, that's all.

 

I know he is but he has not done the voltage test from battery to head light switch> dimmer switch> to head lights.
Then across the battery to see what the difference is.

He is saying my old wiring has got issues, with out knowing the shape it is in, if I am showing a drop in voltage.
In my book if the wiring was larger, less resistance, then the only place for a resistance would be the connections at the 2 switches and lights and that can not be fixed using factory parts.
If it can be (Matt) please tell me / show me what parts are needed to fix this voltage drop I am all eyes & ears.

If the relays are so bad why does Ford use it on the trailer / camper wiring?
Anything man made can fail at any point so to say the head light relay kit is bad and a hazard I don't see how.
Dave ----

ps I am also man enough not to be calling people names

 

Lets see where did I say YOUR "WIRING" has issues you can quote and highlight that anytime, we are waiting...

FYI I never did YOU said /assumed that.
Looks like have your very own little narrative that has no basis, in reality, running around in your head for some reason I'm not surprised.

And the connectors/terminals can be replaced with factory style parts from multiple sources as can the headlight switch including Ford (Motorcraft SW6352). So again you have no clue what you are talking about. And since YOU metered out the system and seem to think YOU know better than the people that worked on the design of these systems YOU tell us the component/s where the volt drop occures, smart guy.

As for relays for Trailer and tail and side marker lights, they are NOT headlights, are they? The last time I checked trailer lights did NOT light the road ahead or warn oncoming drivers of your presence on the road.
Or did that most basic fact exceed the available intellectual capacity?

Name-calling HA I was merely stating a fact as you have so graciously proven over and over repeatedly with each successive post. Still butthurt about that I see.

Again don't want to be called stupid don't do stupid. But like the headlight thing, that is appearing to be too complicated a task.

 

Yes this is true, I look at things with logic and common sense. Both things that seem to be disappearing from society at an alarming rate.

 

Not at all IMO...

 

And that certainly is open for debate.