Yeah, it is…. I started to type what was turning out to be a long-winded response but I decided phuque it, it's not worth the time. Some people see things differently, that's all there is to it.... live and let live.

 

You could be seeing a voltage drop over any component in the circuit depending on where you are measuring. The switches do go bad over time. The contacts get dirty and or misaligned and that can cause resistance and voltage drop. It can cause extra heat too and not dealt with in time can melt wiring insulation and sockets. I've replaced one of those on my Jeep.

This week I was driving my truck early in the morning. I pulled out the headlight switch and noticed it came out about an eighth of an inch more than usual. As a result the switch sometimes doesn't light up the headlights when all the way out now. It has to be pushed in a bit. It also seems to help when I turn down the dimmer in the instrument panel when pulling out. My normal position is fully bright at the instrument panel.

I ordered a new switch and will replace it asap. I don't want to damage the harness from excessive heat due to a poor contact condition.

Couldn't see any original Motorcraft Switches available so went for an aftermarket unit.

 

Rock Auto has the OEM units just as an FYI https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/mo...mp+switch,4472 (wrong switch the correct one SW1663 (E1TZ-11654-A) looks to have been discontinued fairly recently (like in the last year or so) So check your dealer or go aftermarket.)

And give the man a cigar. The headlight switch in 95% of cases is the cause of a volt drop in the system.

These switches are made from bakelite and they wear and get sloppy over time and things do not make contact as well as they should. Also, the contact grease used in them dries out over time and increases the resistance between contacts further contributing to the problem. This is like the 7th iteration of this part as it has been upgraded multiple times over it;s life. The original design used in 79 in the panthers was a complete cluster and ended up being completely reworked prior to the 80 models. This was at best a projected vehicle life part in other words 8 years in normal use.

Regardless you have 2 options either replace or repair. It is avaible new OEM (link above) or through the aftermarket. If the switch is worn repair is possible but it's one of those cases where the pleasure is not worth the pain. If the switch is not worn out and still tight it can be repaired, this involves grinding the 2 rivet heads off the backstrap (end and corner) And carefully pulling the switch apart. Once apart be aware that the contacts have springs behind them so make sure none go off into space.

Once apart carefully drive out the remaining parts of the rivets, Clean all the old grease out of the switch, clean the contacts till all discolouration is gone. As long as the contacts are not worn through or paper thin you can reuse them. Re-lubricate the internal contacts with some new white lithium grease and reassemble.
Replace the rivets with either #4 machine screws and nuts or #6 machine screws and nuts be advised the #6's require the rivet bosses to be enlarged, typically by drilling. This is a delicate procedure, since the body of the switch is bakelite there is a high risk of fracturing it (especially on the end rivet). So only go this route if you are unable to locate #4 machine screws.
Once assembled function test then install, and your switch is basically good as new...

 

If you go through rockauto's catalog with make, year, model it takes you here:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...mp+switch,4472

The switch part number takes you to the switch you posted. For some reason it doesn't show up in the catalog search. Also checking that sw6352 on amazon says it does not fit my f250.

For my switch it pulled out a bit further than normal and then lost contact. Maybe it can be rebuilt but it probably is a keeper issue and not a contact issue. Perhaps a keeper fell off and allows the switch to be pulled out too far?

I already ordered the replacement. Arriving tomorrow.

 

Ya there is a keeper that prevents the switch from over travelling and keeps the shaft in place. It may have broken.

And ya you are right I quoted the later switch, the switch for the bullnoses is SW1663 (E1TZ-11654-A) my error and good catch. I revised the posts . SW1663 looks to have been discontinued fairly recently (like in the last year or so) so, I bought one about this time last year at the dealer and Conrad never mentioned it was obsolete and this was old stock (he typically always does). So there may still be stock kicking around out there.

 

How do we know this? Just because he said he is/was?

 

That's good enough for me. Matthew has brought a lot of information and knowledge to this forum and this thread. So has everyone else here. We all have our various approaches and level of skill and understanding, education, experience and most importantly opinions.

Never trust anyone with no opinion...it means they haven't thought about the subject enough!

 

Still butthurt I see.

 

People who know their chit to his level are able to *demonstrate* knowledge & mastery of the subject, I think he's done that over the years here. IOW he talks knowledgeably & authoritatively; I don't think anybody has ever asked him for his official creds,, though.

~~

I've been a *nix server administrator my entire working career. When I'm interviewing potential candidates to come help, it's really easy to tell if somebody actually knows their chit or is blowing smoke. Given what @NumberDummy has taught me about how Ford works(ed?) what Matthew says jives with reality (IOW he gives valid advice, he's earned his place in history).

And, like Bill, he likes to be right.

 

Yes, I understand now. The quote below demonstrates his communication skills. Looks like he failed in diplomacy 101.

I will just have to keep suffering from the wacks of the ruler when I say something he doesn't like. No one said it would be easy though did they?

 

Looks more like stating a fact. As you have so eloquently and continually demonstrated. No need to write a novel to communicate the blatantly obvious.
And you still have not figured out that if you do not want to be called on stupid don't do stupid. It is looking though, like this very simple concept might just be too complicated for you to grasp.
So what you gonna whine about next maybe it will be that I'm not a real person since you do not have proof of it.
Seriously time to quit as you are starting to go past the point of butthurt and are skating the edge of pathetic.

 

For anybody concerned, especially new members, don't be alarmed. Once these two get going, it's best just to let them finish...

 

Yes the tirade is pathetic and tiresome.
Stupid can include how you interact with others

 

"The beatings will continue until the attitude improves..."

My daddy used to say....

 

They used to say the beatings will continue until morale improves.....
either way....I love that comment!