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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Random Misfire

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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 02:55 PM
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Random Misfire

Hey yall.

Truck is a 93 f150 xlt 2wd 5.0 with the remote mount grey ignition control module.

It has had a rough idle for a long time and id like to solve it. It runs fine. Plenty of power. Ive checked the codes, all it pulls up is an EVAP Solenoid Low Voltage Code.

I replaced the vaccum lines to the egr and tested seal with a vacum pump. It just vibrates a little at idle and it seems like its missing.

I reppaced the plugs, wires, cap, button, coil laat weak. No change in idle.

Ive pulled the negative cable off amd let the computer rest otself. Still stumbling at idle.

Timing was checked, 10 deg BTDC.

Fuel filter was changed last week as well. Please help!
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 06:07 PM
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You know which cylinder(s) are not firing? Use an IR temp gun on the exhaust manifolds, at each cylinder, to tell you if the cylinder is firing. You should also do a compression test to tell if any cylinders are down and out of range.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2021 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 94ZR580
You know which cylinder(s) are not firing? Use an IR temp gun on the exhaust manifolds, at each cylinder, to tell you if the cylinder is firing. You should also do a compression test to tell if any cylinders are down and out of range.

Ill get on that asap. Good idea! I think ill have time to do this saturday. Ill let you know. Also, i pulled all the plugs and cleaned and checked gap. All of the plugs looked great, all of them were the same. They all had a coat of black carbon on the ground ring however. But the ground strap was completely normal. The only code is 31,32,33 and thats continuous memory. I ran the test again after replacing the egr solenoid and repairing vaccum lines and it ran better and the codes dissapeared.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2021 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by OBSADDICT
Ill get on that asap. Good idea! I think ill have time to do this saturday. Ill let you know. Also, i pulled all the plugs and cleaned and checked gap. All of the plugs looked great, all of them were the same. They all had a coat of black carbon on the ground ring however. But the ground strap was completely normal. The only code is 31,32,33 and thats continuous memory. I ran the test again after replacing the egr solenoid and repairing vaccum lines and it ran better and the codes dissapeared.
should i test the compression warm, cold? Ive never tested compression before. Ive also heard of doing wet compression and dry compression. Btw, idle has smoothed out alot. Replaced the plug wires that i "modified" to get the plugs to fit on the boots. Turns out the rubber is essential in preventing spark from grounding to the block??? Who knew.

Anyways, any tips on the compression check ?

Thanks. T
 
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Old Mar 28, 2021 | 05:11 AM
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maybe this -->Part 1 -How to Test Engine Compression (4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L)
 
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