Has anyone used a "muffler shop" for exhaust conversion/installation? If not, what would you reccommend for someone who is not able or does not want to crawl under the truck and do it himself? Does the job require cutting and welding or is it mostly plug and play?

My truck is a 2000 F250 4X4 7.3L PSD

Thanks

 

If you order a complete 4" exhaust system from a reputable manufacturer it is pretty much plug and play.
Having access to a hoist would definetly be a plus.
No welding, some cutting of old exhaust, remove with a Sawzall.
I have seen some posts where exhaust shops have charged $150.00+ for the installation.
Depends on what tools you have, expendable cash, and of course, time.
Takes about 4 hours in a driveway without a lift, hoist, etc.

 

Well, In a work no, there is some cutting and a lot of crawling under the truck. I hsve been working on my 96 for 3 days putting in the Banke Stinger Plus, and Iam not done yet. But I am an engineer so it take 3 times longer.. Son is an ASE Master and he helped some, but it is still a lot crawling aroundover and under the truck. I would for a rutable 4X4 shop or a truck center that will do it right. Maybe someone here in your area will help or recommend a good shop. If you are near Colorado Springs I will help. I have all the tools.
CH

 

Check out this thread. It may help ypu make up your mind which way to go;

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...%25252Binstall

 

The link didn't work;

My previous submittal, a couple of months ago;
FYI:
Location: Driveway
Temperature: Phoenix-105 degrees
Tools: Floor jack, 2) 3/8 ratchets, 9/16" deep and shallow
sockets, 3/8" drive flex and 6" extension,
9/16" open/box wrenches, Sawzall and spare blades,
4" angle head grinder with cutting disk and grinder disk
Oxy/Acetylene torch, small pry bar or large screwdriver
WD40

I took me 5 hours to install the Daimond Eye 4" system on my 2002 2wd PSD. A second person is needed to assist in the installation and clamping of the new down pipe to the turbo exhaust clamp. Other than that, one person can do do it if your belly fits under the truck.

The two most time consumimg items: (1) loosening and removing the original down pipe clamp and (2) fitting the two piece tailpipe assemblies in a way to clear the rear shock and spare tire. When completed, there is only about a 1/2" clearance between the shock and the spare.

I did have to heat up and twist the "C" clamp hangers slightly to adjust the height and angle of the hanger so the exhaust would line up and hang correctly.

Be sure to cut the straight pipe about 1" less then exact to allow a little play between the muffler and the adjoining pipe. Otherwise if you measure and cut it exact, it may force the muffler out of plumb and forces the tailpipe pieces rearword into the shock and spare.

Also had to cut the length of one of the hanger rods so it would not rub against the frame rail. Had to cut about 6" off of the exhaust pipe as it stuck out to far past the quarter panel.

I did use the NAPA stainless steel band clamps on this install. It took 5 clamps and they seemed to work and seal up fine. No distortion of the exhaust like the typical "C" clamps that come with the exhaust.

Need to weld the chrome tip.

Took it out for about 100 miles and everything is tight, in place and no leaks.

Overall, I would do it again in cooler temps. But, I have the tools to modify and adjust.

 

Thanks for the replies! I think that about makes up my mind on whether or not to do it myself......NOT!! I don't have a hoist or floor jack or cutting tools nor do I have the urge to spend four or five hours lying on the concrete under the truck.

If there is a shop out there that can do a reliable installation job for $125 or so, then he's got my money. The next task is to find a reliable installer.

Thanks again!!!